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84 Firebird needs carb (choke Pull-off)

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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:56 PM
  #1  
SoSoFresh_SS's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Ohio
Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6
84 Firebird needs carb (choke Pull-off)

Just bought an all original 2.8 v6 Firebird. I runs but idles funny and has trouble cold starting. I'm used to 305s or 350's. I no nothing about this 2.8 v6. I was told it needed a choke pull-off and also the choke/throttle needed to be adjusted? He said its riveted so I'd have to drill them out to make any adjustments. Somebody please school the kid!

Thanks yall....Finallly back in an F-body! I took seven years....Damn
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #2  
Damon's Avatar
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From: Philly, PA
Re: 84 Firebird needs carb (choke Pull-off)

Yeech- the dreaded whatever-it-is Rochester 2-bbl vac. sec. carb ( I think it's called a VaraJet) they used on the early V6 motors before the days of fuel injection.

Choke pull-off (vacuum canister) is easy... buy a new one, remove the old one, install the new one. Some adjustment of the linkage may be necessary to get it dialed in but it'll run a lot better than a non-functional one right from the get-go in all likelyhood.

The "rivets" hold the round/black choke element in place on the carb. Drill the heads off, punch out the rest of the rivet and reinstall a new choke element with self-tapping screws so you never need to mess with rivets again. BUT make sure you're actually getting 12V to the choke element through the choke heater wire (is it even attached?) before you assume the choke is bad or the choke will never heat up and open fully.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #3  
SoSoFresh_SS's Avatar
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From: Ohio
Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6
Re: 84 Firebird needs carb (choke Pull-off)

Originally Posted by Damon
Yeech- the dreaded whatever-it-is Rochester 2-bbl vac. sec. carb ( I think it's called a VaraJet) they used on the early V6 motors before the days of fuel injection.

Choke pull-off (vacuum canister) is easy... buy a new one, remove the old one, install the new one. Some adjustment of the linkage may be necessary to get it dialed in but it'll run a lot better than a non-functional one right from the get-go in all likelyhood.

The "rivets" hold the round/black choke element in place on the carb. Drill the heads off, punch out the rest of the rivet and reinstall a new choke element with self-tapping screws so you never need to mess with rivets again. BUT make sure you're actually getting 12V to the choke element through the choke heater wire (is it even attached?) before you assume the choke is bad or the choke will never heat up and open fully.
Thanks man, it was COLD this morning too. It took over an hour and alot of b.s. to get it started and it still ran rough. I just got it Friday. Its so congested under the hood(being ALL ORIGINAL) I dont wanna take a chance at f---ing something up, so I'll memorize this and try to get a mechanic to follow your directions because you are right on. The seller told me the same thing.

ThanX
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