I have just installed a new carb on my fresh 355 along with a mallory hei ignition. Has anyone had much tuning time with this carb. I have to mess with it daily. It NEVER EVER idles teh same and can not get the low end mixture correct. It does good when I stomp it from a dead stop it will burn the tire till I let up even with the open 2.73. I just absolutly wont idle corrrectly or consistantly.

 

I had to get this calibration kit to get mine to run decent.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Which way do you think I need to go? I have the idle mixture screws so far out to get it to even idle half a** and the springs that hold tension are just usless. If I try to bring them in even a turn the thing just falls on its face and dies.

 

Something is wrong that is not your carb. The Edelbrock 1405/1406 carbs are bullet proof and out of the box, should be close enough to not have the problems you are describing. I have run them on all kinds of mild to wild setups and although tuning was necessary to be perfect, they always ran good enough out of the box to be drivable without major issues. A 9:1 350 should be close to spot on. I threw a 600 edelbrock on a crate 300 hp 350 last week and it runs fantastic with no tuning. I'm sure on a dyno it could use rejetting for best afr and max hp but the thing drives great.

 

Any idea what the issue may be? I am running a brand new Mallory Street fighter HEI ignition system. I have my fuel regulated down to 5.5psi. I cant find any vacuum leaks. My advance is running off of the drivers side port due to having NO ties with the ECM. I am running 14 degrees of base advance.

 

You want to use the passenger's side port, which is the timed port, for vac advance. Switch to the other port and see if that helps. Although running w/ overadvanced timing from the vac advance can is probably going to cause, if anything, really good idle quality, not poor idle. If the carb is functioning properly, it's not causing a fluctuating idle.

 

the idle mixture screws are proably way too far out and your idle set screw proabley has the throttle blades past the transfer slot wich means your ilde mixture screws do nothing.
turn the idle mixture screws in untill they quit turning by hand then back them out 1 1/4 turns. the motor will proably not want to run untill your set your base timing up some. that will keep the rpms up to arround 850 to 1000.then tune the carb.
always timing then carb.

 

I switched over to the timed port and and when I fired it up it ran like crap at an idle. I retarded had to retard my timing to about 14 degrees. The engine smoothed out alot then reset my idle mixture screws till the engine picked up rpm alittle. I am running about 2 turns out on the mixture screws. Then reset the idle to 800 rpm.

 

Drove it today now when I go to take off on normal street driving its acting like I have a small dead spot. I will have time to fix it do to when I did one HELL of a burnout I blew the 2.73 right out of the rearend!

 

you must have been powerbraking.... that is, holding the brake and stomping the gas. That puts a lot of shear on the retainer bolt in the diff and when it snaps, boy it lets everything go!!

 

No actually I did a small burn out by just stomping the throttle with no brake and when I did it a secont time to make a run it went no where....

 

so which was it a small burnout or one HELL of a burnout? Just curious?

 

Any burnout is a hell of a burn out for this car, I purchased it from a 17 year old kid that did nothing but abuse it. When i stomped it it will now smoke the RR till the tranny starts slippin and thats what I did. The second stomp is what took it out. To give you an idea I purchased the car with a knock for 600 dollars. When I tore the engine down journals 1 and 3 on the crank were wore down .350 from 2 and 4. And no.1 cylinder had a ridge you could pick the block up by. All I can say good about the car is it is a very str8 North Carolina car.