Ok, I finally took out the TBI ecm and wireing harness and everything in the car still works, but it wont crank over. I have my fuel pump on a switch and it still works fine. I was wondering what would cause this. Car is an 89, so it does have the little security chip in the key. I have somepics of a few left over wires and a little black box I am unsure of what it is. I am not sure whether they could be from charcoal canister or the AC stop switch on the P/S line ETC...

Thanks in advance!

Its not cranking over because you removed the ECM which has VATS = "vehicle anti theft system" vats keys have a resistor embedded in the key the module is i believe wired in the ECM my 3rdgen doesn't have vats but my buddys did check out this page it might help you
http://www.drdetailshop.com/gmpellet.htm#Bypassing%20GM%20Vehicle%20Anti-Theft%20System%20(VATS%20)

Take a look through this: https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

Ok, So i cant just ground out the start control relay box, so what can I do to just eliminate all of the vats wireing. What would be easiest...?

Also, I am wondering, when i pulled th ecm there was a smaller black looking box above it. Would this be the Vats decoder box? I just unplugged it and continued on. I am not sure that GM would send wires through the engine bay and back in the drivers side.... My control box should be on the passengers side above the kick panel correct? Thanks for the input guys hopefuly I will be driving my 3rd gen soon.

any other input? would like this thing to be running soon... this vats is pretty annoying

Hey guys, I got it working, just took the little throwout plate on the Start enable relay and wedged a little piece of tuning in there and zip tird it in place. Now it starts every time. Thanks for the help. No more tbi wireing ...yay!

Also I am pretty sure I could hotwire a camaro now lol.

what exatly did you do to bypass the entire VATS system?? I was thinking about doing a push button ignition instead, any advice?

I'm by no means an expert here, but I am working on installing a 350 Carb/HEI in my '89 TBI Camaro.

I pulled the ECM and went through all the wires to all the connectors on the motor and removed any wire that went to a sensor I would not need and also any wire that only went to the ECM. I did not remove any wires under the dash though. I figured they are out of the way and so who cares. There are still a bunch of wires under the hood. The wiring harness is probably about half the size it was.

I did not pull any VATS wires from the system. A couple of years ago the ignition switch stopped "reading" the resistor in the key and so I worked through the wiring. I ended up by passing the Key resistor (probably per some instructions on this site somewhere) and also learned much about the VATS system.

The VATS system (at least in the '89) has two ways it prevents the car from being stolen:
1) Disable the starter. This acts just like the park neutral switch is bad. It is basically an inline connection with the park neutral switch. I would have just wired around that one as there is a connector under the dash that would easily be bypassed. I didn't bother however due to theft deterent number 2.

2) Send a signal to the ECM when the correct resistor is read from the key. The ECM will not fire the fuel injectors if the signal is not received from the VATS.

My point in all of this is I really didn't do anything to make the car work after removing the ECM. VATS is still technically in the system. It is bypassed by the resistor and there for always thinks the correct key is installed and therefore provides the power for the starter solenoid as needed.

In my opinion, it seems the standard resistor bypass of the VATS system would be the way to go. It is a really simple mod, especially on the '89 Camaro. I just searched the web, found what to do, piece of cake, there is a separate two pin connnector at the bottom of the steering column that make the job eash. My daughter's '92 Bonneville was much harder since these wires were part of a seperate 40+ pin connector, thus harder to do and harder to find the correct wires.

However, if you really insist on fully removing the VATS system, find the wiring diagram and you will find that under the driver side dash is a connector that you should be able to easily bypass the VATS signal. I think it would have been pretty much unplug the connector and jumper across a couple of pins. I don't remember for sure since I didn't do that method. This method of course only works when removing the ECM since the VATS to ECM signal is not a simple 12 volt signal. It is some sort of square wave at some frequency type of signal that would be more difficult to create without at least some simple electronic engineering/technical skills.