My Choke heater fuse has been blowing. I replaced wiring, the EGR, and just about everything electrical involving the choke except the choke itself. Can the choke be the problem?

 

It would have to be shorted to ground, but it's possible.

 

Latley I have been running without my choke, just because I ran out of 20 amp fuses and I couldn't figure out what has been going on. Today I got some fuses to continue trouble shooting. Now its working fine, but this has happened before. The fuse will blow again. Could it be my Choke Thermostat?

 

Check resistance of the choke element- check it when it's cold/room temperature. One probe on the choke's electrical connector terminal, the other on the body of the carb (ground).

I've seen them as low as 5 Ohms on a fresh, box-new choke element. 10 Ohms is more typical. Old elements the resistance goes up over time- anything over 20-25 Ohms and it's probably shot, but that still won't cause fuses to blow.

If you're blowing fuses you're probably looking for a resistance reading that is too low- close to 0 ohms (short to ground). If that's the case then yes, you need a new choke element. If not, it's time to look elsewhere for the problem.

 

I'm going to go to the wrecking yard this weekend and pull a couple of them out to troubleshoot.

 

I see you have an 83 T/A. Try unhooking the wiring for the power bulge hood.

My daughters 84 started randomly then always blowing that fuse. Choke light on, fuse blown. After much aggrevation, a pile of blown fuses and studying the wiring on that circuit I finally tracked it down. The oil pressure sensor on the back corner of the motor is on that fuse as well. Obviously in my case it ended up having nothing to do with the choke.

 

I will try that one too.