hey new to the forum, found a lot of good info here already, I am currently reading the sticky on E4ME quadrajets, as I just bought one last night. I am dissapointed to find out that it is a computer controlled carb.

As of right now, I have an intake and this quadrajet, I got on ebay last night. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Roche...Q5fAccessories

I guess I am in need of everything else, and this is all new to me. I am looking to do this as cheaply as possible, and not extremely worried about making maximum horsepower.

I would really prefer to not have a computer controlled carb, so is their any way I can convert this one easily to not run with tps, fuel/ air mixture sensor and all the others.

I would like to do this as easily as possible. or if the computer controlled stuff is not that difficult, where can I find the parts I need, (all sensors, ecm, and wiring) to finish?

Also I was worried a bit about the distributor. I have no knowledge of the different kinds, all I know is the one I have on my TPI setup is computer controlled and has electrical plug ins. since this is a ccc, can I reuse this distributor, or do I need a new one? I have seen the term HEI all over the place, but don't know what it means. what types of distributors are their?

thats all for now, I'll keep researching as well.

one final thought, would I be better off getting rid of this ccc, and getting an older quadrajet without all the sensors and bs?

 

the older quadrajets are gonna take more time to tune cause you have to tune the lean and inrichment screws but yes it would be easier to get an older one then to play with puttin in a new harness to run the CCC.
the HEI dizzy is two types of them one is which you have that the ECM runs the advance and the other is controlled by vaccume.
Im doing the same thing but goin Holley and gettin away from the quadrajet. also your gonna need a fuel regulator, mallory 4160 I think is it will work, its a return style and wont burn out your pump. good luck

 

The technical articles section from the homepage has an article on it that explains the entire process very well.

Personally... I would go with a non-cc carb. Switching to a carburetor will not be emissions legal for you no matter what, and it is much more hassle-free without the extra wiring. If you use that carb, you WILL need all the sensors, plus a matching distributor.

An HEI distributor is usually referring to a distributor with an internal ignition coil.

 

dont worry bout that carb, just hook it up like you would a regular carb and it will work. I have one of these on a 78 chevy truck and it it rins fine with no wires hooked to it at all. Then just get a vacuum advance hei distributor. But you will need to make sure the intake will fit your heads as there is two styles one for centerbolt valve covers and one for the old style with 4 bolts around the edge of the valve cover

 

any negatives to running a ccc without all the sensors? or can I get a second person to verify that it will work fine?

I have one person telling me I need the sensors, and one that says I don't , who's right?

I now know what kind of distributor I need, I have an intake that will work, waiting to find out if this carb will work,

does this carb have a return fuel line, or not, I'll check out that mallory regulator. thanks for the tip.

let me know if I can run this ccc without all the wiring.

 

The easiest non-cc carb in the world to deal with is an Edelbrock, and it can be had new in the box at Pep Boys for about $160 on sale. Advance Auto or Autozone has a brand new brown-capped Accel HEI vac advanced distributor for $125. The fuel pressure regulator you'll need as a Mallory #4309.

 

The carburetor itself does not have a return line, but your fuel system does. You MUST have a return style regulator, or your fuel pump will burn out quickly. A return-style regulator regulates pressure by controlling how much fuel goes through the return line, as opposed to creating a restriction to lower pressure. This way the fuel pump has continuous flow, which cools it off and prevents overheating.

The Summit brand HEI distributor and Mallory #4309 regulator can be found on summitracing.com for about $90 each, probably the best price you will find.

I would P.M. a mod if you want to be positive on the carb issue, five7kid is the man to go to. He's very knowledgeable about these carburetors.

 

The car will run on the ccc but wont run very well as opposed to a non ccc. If you just need to move it here and there for a little bit then it would be fine.

 

What?


I was reading this article
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/myqjet.htm

and it seemed the blue plug in on the carb is for a coolant temp sensor off the t stat housing, it stated in that article, that was the only electical aspect of the carb.

heres a quote from the article

"These carbs aren't computer controlled as many people think. The only thing electrical about them is the dual capacity pump."

so Im assuming these are not computer controlled as I have read on here. Im having a difficult time realizing which information is accurate or not. I will pm five7kid, and see what he has to say.

where can I find a t stat, and sensor like that? junkyard, I was only able to find the sensor online, not the wires and connectors.

I found that mallory regulator, thanks for the part #, can anyone recommend a fuel pump, I have a high pressure msd (80 psi) external pump on right now. can I find an inline pump, that has a lower psi for the carb and mount it in the same spot, or does it need to be mounted by the carb?

 

The purpose for the fuel regulator (#4309) is so that you can run a high pressure pump without burning out the pump or flooding the carb. You can use the fuel pump you have now.

 

Hold it, hold, HOLD IT! There is way too much misinformation in this thread to address each part of it individually (that's what I get for taking time to do my own stuff over a holiday weekend).

Okay, you want to change from TPI to carb, right? Fine, nothing wrong with that for an '87, since carb was available that year. I wouldn't do it personally, but it isn't my car.

You actually got the only legal type of carb to do this. E4ME means by definition that is a computer-controlled carb. But, all you have is the carb, and you need a whole bunch more.

You can use the TPI distributor, but only with an '87 carb computer & harness. You could use an earlier computer carb distributor, but you'd have to change a bunch of connectors. So, which distributor you end up using depends upon which computer system you end up getting.

Which gets us to the part about the computer - you cannot use the TPI computer (without a bunch of modifications and reprogramming, which I don't think you want to tackle). I've never heard of anyone doing it, and I've been hanging around this Board for almost 10 years now. I think I would have heard about it if there was a lick of viability to it.

Without the computer, the carb would run full rich all the time, and the ignition timing would be retarded too much almost all the time. Makes for a poor combination, especially if acceptable fuel economy, let alone typical street driving, are part of your plan. Just running it without the computer is probably the worst "advice" given so far in this thread.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/myqjet.htm - almost none of that applies to your quadrajet. Ignore it. The blue connector on your carb is for the mixture control solenoid (the thing that won't be working if you don't use the proper computer to control this carb). Other versions (like trucks) had a connector that looked similar but was used for a different purpose.

The TPI fuel pump is in the fuel tank. TPI fuel pressure is regulated by a regulator built into the TPI fuel rail Carbs don't have that regulator, so if you use the TPI pump, you need to get a return-style regulator to keep pressure down to 4-7 psi at the carb. Failure to regulate the pressure will result in instant carb flooding - not good for your engine (dilutes the oil with gasoline, among other things) or car (should the excess fuel catch on fire). Failure to use the proper type of regulator will result in in-tank electric fuel pump failure.

My opinion of a starting point for you would be reconsideration of this swap. If you want to go through with it, I have an '82 CC carb system including the computer, harness, and distributor, without the carb (sold that to a good home already) that I've been waiting to find a good home for. Technically, it isn't legal, either, as only an '87 system would meet that criteria. But, it is available and would run your engine properly. Have an intake, too, but it's the '86-earlier bolt pattern, not the '87-up version.

 

I appologize for the misinformation I posted, that was not my intention at all. I thought '86 was the last year for carburetors on our cars.

Personally, I would recommend doing the swap with a non computer controlled carb and distributor. Be warned that your torque converter will no longer lock up however (unless you wire a switch)

 

alright, let me first say my fault for the mis information, like my screen name implies, this is a 350 swap into a jeep. I am running an sm420 4 speed manual truck transmission. the block is old, Im not sure what year, but it was never intended to have a tpi setup on it. I bought it as a project from the previous owner, and have just come to realize this tpi is not going to work without alot of ecm tuning. plus this is my first motor swap and Im learning as I go.

this is an offroad only vehicle, so emissions is not an issue. I could care less if there is a ccc in their or a regular carb, I am just looking to get this thing running well easily and hopefully cheaply. when wiring ecms, and sensors are introduced the price goes up. since I now know this will require all of that without giving me the advantage of efi, what is the point of having an ecm for a carb? better emissions? better fuel mixture?

five7kid, can you shoot me a pm of what your looking for for your wiring, ecm and distributor? or would I be better off getting a different quadrajet that is not cc? if so what should I look for?

I have an intake that will work and will be bolting it up tonight,

btw, the fuel system is all done by me, no stock parts, all through summit, the pump is an msd external pump mounted in the back by the fuel cell msd 2225 on summit. 43 gph at 85 psi. will that regulator handle that? if so that would be great.

sorry for the long winded post.

 

I said it could run but not run well if he just needed it to move around here and there. But again sorry if it was taken wrong.

 

The main reason for the computer controls was emissions/efficiency. The regulator would work fine, they claim its limit is 200 gph. I would get an off-road carb, or get a kit and convert one. No reason to mess with the ECM in your situation.

 

Okay, now that we have all of the information:

Looks like you got a good carb, but it isn't what you need. Get a non-CC q-jet, or a vacuum secondary Holley.

 

so would this be a good one to grab?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marin...ssoriesQ5fGear

non cc, lifetime warranty and they will jet it for my specific application at no additional cost. marine carb though, sounds like it would be a match as I will be driving through lakes and such, lol

whats the difference between regular and marine carbs?

 

anyone?

is it cause I have a jeep and not a camaro?

 

I have a ccc carb on a 78 chevy short-bed with 1 ton axles sm 465 4 speed and a 205 t-case, an all out wheeling machine. It does run and drive but I dont drive it on the road. It has a 89 centerbolt 350 that came original with a tbi. I changed it over to a carb cause I didnt want to fool with the wiring crap. But now im in the process of putting tuned port injection off of a 88 iroc-z parts car I have. The reson being, the carb doesnt work well on a steep hill or leaning sideways, and if you let it die out its hard to start back if its not on level ground. The tpi set up will let me run on any angle without stalling and is a good performance upgrade. So if you already have the tpi set up I think you would be more satisfied if you would just go ahead and make it work.

 

I've been trying for the last year to get the tpi to work, its just not happening, I believe the ecm needs some heavy tuning to get it to work right. either that or the harness is junk. either way, I need this running soon, cause I am not letting another summer get by w/o wheeling.

I have heard of quite a few people having good luck with carbs, If they are set up right, they will work very well offroad.

 

Well, you are on a third-gen F body exclusive site. If you were keeping the TPI it would certainly be relevant, but not so much with a carburetor. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just saying it like it is.

 

I guess I had that coming, no offense taken. Im gonna pull the trigger on that carb, and get this thing on the trail, thanks for the help guys.

 

Good luck

 

That would be fine. The only difference I can see is the bowl vent. I'm sure if you tell them what you've got they'll custom build an automotive carb for the same price.
The standard there is if it is "3rd gen related". So far, there haven't been any questions that are Jeep-specific, so that's why this hasn't been closed - yet.

 

Just something to note: some marine carbs have no vacuum port for your power brakes, which is something you will want to check.