I am having a issue iI blew the cluch in my car and that is now replaced after months of waiting for the wheather to break car started fine I took it for a short ride ran great i went to back it in to its spot and it stalled when i went to restart it it sounded flooded and wouldent start
when i turn it over with air cleaner removed gas is spitting out the carb Qjet I just replaced it last year and ran fine till now is there anything i can do without having to replace it or rebuild WHAT HAPPENED

 

Check for a stuck float or debris on the needle and seat.

 

Is there anything I can do without taking carb apart
If I took it off and shook it u think that could clean the seat

 

I just went out there my roter was loose i tighned it do you think now my plugs are fouled it turnes over much better but i think it was flooded

 

Probably not. Is it running correctly now?

 

No car is still not running do i have to buy a carb rebuild kit to check the needle valve i also have a holly 600 series should i bolt that up and see if it starts

 

You can try the old trick of starting the engine and pinching off the fuel line while you tap the body of the carb.

Are you sure it's flooding?

 

When I turn the car over gas is spurting out of top of carb what else could that be

 

The place i got my carb from has a lifetime garantee on it so i sent it back to them i will let you know how i make out

 

So i had this same problem with my q-jet. It turns out my choke was getting stuck, have you checked that? it could just be your choke thermostat. I know a guy here who has rebuilt carbs for like 20 or 30 years and he helped me find this out. also, after you think its flooded, try taking out one of your spark plugs and see if any gas comes out. mine was so bad that was happening, so i took all my plugs out, cleaned them, and let them sit for a few hours to dry out. i put them back in and tried starting it without giving it gas and it started up, but everytime i pushed the gas the choke came on and flooded me out. i ended up wiring my choke down for a while and it was hard to start cold but it did eventually start. choke thermostats arent too hard to replace, so i would check that out before going into a whole rebuild.

 

Guys I need some support she is really testing me. first my rear end went and I replaced it with a posi. Then i blew the clutch just fixed that got a short run engine cut out I have the carb tested and they repaired the float. now i went to start it and i just found out the timing chain must of broke because my lifters arent moving. i have never replaced a timing chain plenty of belts but never a chain is that hard to do i love my car but my wife is starting to get gealous of her. I need some to tell me how to replace the chain i know i have to aline the markes but how do i get the new one on is there some sort of tentioner Tell me this is all Worth it

 

What motor is it?

 

There is no tensioner. What's your skill level with the SBC? It gets a bit involved changing the timing chain. You'll have to elevate the engine to loosen the oil pan. I use the Fel-Pro one piece oil pan gasket, they're great. If you have the means, I would replace the cam as well. If you remove the distro cap does the rotor turn when the engine is turned over?

 

It is a V8 engine cant i get threw to the timing chain threw the front timing chain cover by just taking off the water pump. my skill level is ok i replaced both head about 2 years ago why would i replace cam shaft and the router does spin i will double check

 

You can't take the timing cover off without lowering the oil pan.

If the rotor spins, then it's not a problem with the timing chain.

 

ok here is where im at i got the cover off chain is shot i bought a new one i alined the marks but how do i know im not 180 out and can i be 180 out on the camshaft the book says to feel the compression stroke but i feel compression both ways please help i want to get this car back up and running

 

If the marks are lined up, you can't be out.

 

Also i bought a performance double gear set but now that im looking at old one this one looks like a bike chain is it garbage the should i just get OEM set the old one looked like it had plastic over the teath could that be right or am i looking at it wrong
Zoom 3-Piece Timing Gear Set


Part No. 160001 Warranty ZOOM Double Row Timing Chain Set; Four Degrees Advance or Retard

 

it cant even be 180 on crank i know when i did the heads with one at tdc i ajusted some valves and another revolution put 6 at tdc isnt this the same mark as on the harmonic balancer

 

B.S. I have done it several times. There is a bit of a trick to getting it back in but it can be done.

 

Brian, what I have always done was this..... Once you get the timing chain cover off ( however you do it is up to you) pull the old timing gear set, rotate the engine until number 1 piston is at top dead center if that is what the motor calls for. I use a sparkplug that i modified to accept a dial indicator so i can get it perfect, but a screwdriver will work..just dont get it jammed. align the marks. install the distributor with the rotor pointing toward the cylinder you put at top dead center, tighten it all down, reinstall all the covers. Off ya go.

 

I used a screwdriver and it seams the same weather i am tdc or 180 out the book says tdc of 6 cylinder which the cam is but for some reason i cant tell tdc or 1 or tdc of six both ways i turn it play on one with screwdriver feels the same someone help me with this i want to get car back together tommarro and can someone tell me if the zoom timing chain with double spocket is junk i really dont want to have to do this again thanks for all your help so far

 

The Zoom timing set is fine, better even. It will be a slight bit noisier, as the nylon gears on the original set are for noise reduction.

 

im curious, how did you modify the sparkplug to a dial indicator?

 

are you sure that it says TDC of #6???? I just got done finished with mine not that long ago and all Gen 1 SBC's are TDC of #1 with the rotor pointing between the #1 and #8 contacts on the distributor cap. I know that for sure, ran through that for several days when I was troubleshooting a problem with mine.

 

Tdc of six is what my hayes repair manual says i ghess it doentt matter as long as cam and crank is in the same position i just want to get six to tdc and im haven troble assuring that i just wish there was a better way i dont want to take it back apart

 

When the timing marks on the sprockets are lined up dot-to-dot, the engine has both #1 and #6 at TDC. #6 will be firing.

 

#1 is the one that will be firing

Here is distributor removal directly from Haynes manual:

Installation if the crankshaft was turned after distributor removal

17 remove the number 1 spark plug
18 place your finger over the spark plug hole while turning the crankshaft with a wrench on the pulley bolt at the front of the engine
19 when you fell comrpession, continue turning the crankshaft slowly until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the 0 on the eninge timing indicator
20 position the rotor to point between the number 1 ad 8 spark plug terminals in the distro cap on v8's, between the 1 and 6 terminals on the v6 engine, or between the 1 and 3 on l4 engines
21 complete the installation by referring to steps 10 through 16

 

I left the distributor in my hayes book says six again i dont think it matters as long as cam and crank is pointing the same way but are u guys sure that 1 and six are at tdc together i thought differntly from setting valve lash im goin to garage now i will put distributer between 1 and 8 i just want to make sure crank is in the right possition and it is not 180 out

 

Yes, make sure that the timing for the camshaft is right, no need to destroy valves for lack of reading the manual. I checked my Chilton's and it says the same thing almost verbatim. If you point it at the #6 spark plug terminal then you'll be 180* out, if it starts it'll run really rough. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, rotating clockwise...I think.

This is the way that I did mine since I already had the valve cover's off. Look at the valves and make sure you know which valve is which (ie, intake vs exhaust) on the #1 cylinder. Rotate the motor while watching the valves, and open and close the exhaust valve and then before the exhaust fully closes the intake will start to open. Continue until you close the intake and then start watching the timing tab and set the timing mark to zero. Stick your screwdriver in the plug hole and rotate the motor back and forth to make sure that the timing tab is correct since you took everything apart.

 

I little basic mechanics here. If you take the firing order of a motor and split it in half you will find your companion cylinders. Companion cylinders pistons are in the exact same position but opposite valve position. So chevy firing order. 18436572
1843
6572

That makes 1-6,8-5,4-7, and 3-2 all companion cylinders.

 

that is why it runs when it is 180* out, it just doesn't run right

 

No, that shows what cylinder should be firing when a it's lined up for the other cylinder to fire when it's 180 degrees off.

 

Heres where im at timing chain went in sweat and i know that the timing is good it fires right up with just a touch of the key but to me the valves seam a little noisey sould i do a valve lash job on it because when i did valve lash last it was with old chain and let me tell u that cam gear was stripped and i looked like the vinal coating had been missing for a long time like i said it is running like a top now it may just be the new timing chain u guys said it may be a little noiser but to me it seams like the valves are slapping just a little any advice would be greatly aprecited

 

I have never seen a motor run 180º out and i have made this mistake as well as seen it made by others. Usually if anything it backfires through the carb and thats only when you start twisting it around and retarding it enough so it is firing with the intake valve open.

 

Valves are slapping what dude? This is concerting. Did you turn this motor over by hand a full two rotations before starting it? A lifter tick is the indication of needed valve adjustment. The sound of the valves kissing the pistons is distinctly different. Hopefully you don't mean that.

 

No it is eaither the valve lsh or just the timing chain i just wanted to know if the lash could of changed because the cam gear was so deteriorated it is minamal but there is defenitly some noise sounds like a loose rocker arm or two

 

Brian you might as well tear down the motor and do some overhaul, believe me it will save you a lot more time than separately doing all the same things, you know might as well get um all done at once, it will also give you good opportunity to give her a throw check up

 

The timing chain won't affect valve adjustment.

But, sounds like you need to at least check the rockers.

 

I will check rockers and let you guys know

 

Is there any other reason could of the gas thined oil in lifters i changed the oil after the timing chain but i dont know if the valves are still saturated with gas from turning it over when i was troubleshooting

 

Not likely.