new carb, tweak or not? help please
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 30
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From: Lake City MN
Car: 1986 IROCZ, '00 Grand Prix GTP
Engine: 355, supercharged 3.8
Transmission: 5 speed manual, auto
new carb, tweak or not? help please
Just got my Holley 0-4776 (600cfm) put on the car. smells rich and Burns eyes in the garage. A little back ground on the car first. It's a 355, flat top pistons, 882 heads, muthr thumpr cam, edelbrock torker ii intake, heddman hedders. 5 speed tranny.
Cam specs are 4.287/305 2200-6100 .489/.476
My guess is its a hair rich and smells worse because the cam. . this is the first carburetor I've ever tweaked with, but I know it's new and ready to run. I guess what I'm asking is should I leave it the way it is or go buy me a vacuum gauge and tweak the mixtures screws? Thanks guys!
Cam specs are 4.287/305 2200-6100 .489/.476
My guess is its a hair rich and smells worse because the cam. . this is the first carburetor I've ever tweaked with, but I know it's new and ready to run. I guess what I'm asking is should I leave it the way it is or go buy me a vacuum gauge and tweak the mixtures screws? Thanks guys!
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: Central PA
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: Rebuilt L98 with H/C/I/Carb
Transmission: TH350 with ATI Treemaster
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 4.10's
Re: new carb, tweak or not? help please
Those cams have a tone of overlap. Because of this, you will need a ton of timing advance at idle and low speed to get it to run correctly. The 882's with flat tops isn't helping (your compression is probably closer to 9:1 instead of 10:1).
Timing first, then we can help you get the carb dialed in. What is your base timing at idle (without vacuum advance)? What is it at idle with the vacuum advance hooked up?
And, before anyone else says it...Torker II intake = not so good. I'd be looking at a performer RPM or something similar.
Timing first, then we can help you get the carb dialed in. What is your base timing at idle (without vacuum advance)? What is it at idle with the vacuum advance hooked up?
And, before anyone else says it...Torker II intake = not so good. I'd be looking at a performer RPM or something similar.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Lake City MN
Car: 1986 IROCZ, '00 Grand Prix GTP
Engine: 355, supercharged 3.8
Transmission: 5 speed manual, auto
Re: new carb, tweak or not? help please
1) that cam calls for 9:1CR
2) at idle with no vacuum advance is roughly 11. I haven't tried it with vacuum advance.
3) and as far as the intake goes it's too late I bought that last summer and don't plan on buying another. Just going to have to deal with it I guess.
I'm going to go to Napa here in the next hour or so and buy a vacuum gauge so I can mess with the fuel mixtures in the future
2) at idle with no vacuum advance is roughly 11. I haven't tried it with vacuum advance.
3) and as far as the intake goes it's too late I bought that last summer and don't plan on buying another. Just going to have to deal with it I guess.
I'm going to go to Napa here in the next hour or so and buy a vacuum gauge so I can mess with the fuel mixtures in the future
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
From: Central PA
Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: Rebuilt L98 with H/C/I/Carb
Transmission: TH350 with ATI Treemaster
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 4.10's
Re: new carb, tweak or not? help please
11 degrees advance at idle wont cut it. You will need to open the throttle blades on the carb so far (just to get it to idle) that it will uncover the transition slots. The result is...running very rich at idle.
Get vacuum advance hooked up and hook it to a manifold vacuum source (not ported). You want to see somewhere in the 40 degree range at idle. Then, you can close the throttle blades a ton and probably drop your idle speed to 800RPM. Then, use the vacuum gage to set the idle mixture screws. Do it in that order.
Get vacuum advance hooked up and hook it to a manifold vacuum source (not ported). You want to see somewhere in the 40 degree range at idle. Then, you can close the throttle blades a ton and probably drop your idle speed to 800RPM. Then, use the vacuum gage to set the idle mixture screws. Do it in that order.
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