Quadrabog - 83 Z28 .....Ideas?
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Quadrabog - 83 Z28 .....Ideas?
It's a CCC 4-Brrl, and it seems like the car has the infamous quadra-bog, that is to say, I have what I can best describe as a "flat spot" between when the primaries are open wide, and the secondaries start opening. It almost seems like the secondaries open up too late. It's not the original L69 carb. It's a rebuilt Autozone carb, so, I found out later that I gave the good hangers and rods in my L69 carb back to Autozone as a core.
Anyways, how do I get rid of this? I think it runs awesome for a 305, but this problem persists. Any help appreciated.
BTW, I set my timing around 10 degrees advanced, and it seems to run great there. If advanced more, I can't get it started.
Anyways, how do I get rid of this? I think it runs awesome for a 305, but this problem persists. Any help appreciated.
BTW, I set my timing around 10 degrees advanced, and it seems to run great there. If advanced more, I can't get it started.
Last edited by Confuzed1; Dec 31, 2001 at 01:07 AM.
check this tech articles on tuning the CC quad jet. https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/quadrajet.shtml
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
That's usually caused by the air valve opening too early, not too late. If they opened too late, the car would run like it was a 2-barrel: i'e' you'd never even notice that you had opened the sec throttles.
Tighten the air valve spring to about 5/8 turn of tension, that is where mine seems to work best.
Tighten the air valve spring to about 5/8 turn of tension, that is where mine seems to work best.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Western NY
Car: 84 T/A
Engine: 305HOL69
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Quadrabog - 83 Z28 .....Ideas?
Originally posted by Confuzed1
It's not the original L69 carb. It's a rebuilt Autozone carb, so, I found out later that I gave the good hangers and rods in my L69 carb back to Autozone as a core.
It's not the original L69 carb. It's a rebuilt Autozone carb, so, I found out later that I gave the good hangers and rods in my L69 carb back to Autozone as a core.
Also, they gave me a bad TPS and a really lean primary mixture adjustment--might wanna check those two items as well.
You'll want to get a hold of the DR rods and a G hanger if you want the stock L69 setup, or substitute a B hanger if you want a little more kick on the transition. You might have to re-tweak the air door tension when you put in the new rods & hangers. Gotta love Autozone sometimes.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
I appreciate all the responses! - RB, I'll try adjusting the spring tension on the air valve. That might explain why I get a puff of black smoke when I push it hard.
eightTfourTA - Glad to hear I wasn't the only one this happened to!! I definitley want to get at least the stock hangers. Know of a good source? Part numbers maybe?
eightTfourTA - Glad to hear I wasn't the only one this happened to!! I definitley want to get at least the stock hangers. Know of a good source? Part numbers maybe?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Western NY
Car: 84 T/A
Engine: 305HOL69
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I got the hanger from www.carbsunlimited.com. The rods came from www.gmpartsdirect.com. The GM part # for DR rods is 17053659. You might be able to get them thru a local dealer, but my experiences with the dealers here have turned me toward the internet for stuff for thirdgen cars (the order screen doesn't try to sell me a used '94 V6 Firebird for 12K!!
)
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
Engine: 305-4v
Transmission: 700R4 and TransGo2
Originally posted by Confuzed1
That might explain why I get a puff of black smoke when I push it hard.
That might explain why I get a puff of black smoke when I push it hard.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Sitting Bull - I totally agree with you, but it's not a constant black smoke.... only when I tromp in it. Besides, the engine only has about 500 miles on it since the rebuild.....not enough time for any carbon build-up. And of the 500 miles, the first 300 of them was normal driving...I didn't wind it for "break-in" purposes. Since then, I don't hesitate to open it up!
I was ALMOST going to just swap the whole engine and get a 350....and in some cases it makes good sense, but I don't regret rebuilding my 305 for a second. I've owned slower 350's in the past.
I think when I finally swap up, it will be a 454 or 455 big block.
In my opinion, the stump-pulling, low end torque of a big block is the way to go!
eightTfourTA: Thanks alot for the info!!
I'll just install the hanger and rods first, then adjust the air valve as RB mentioned, so I don't end up tweaking it in twice. They should be pretty inexpensive right?
- Doesn't matter anyways, cause when you're in as deep as I am into this car, it's all just chump change.
I was ALMOST going to just swap the whole engine and get a 350....and in some cases it makes good sense, but I don't regret rebuilding my 305 for a second. I've owned slower 350's in the past.
I think when I finally swap up, it will be a 454 or 455 big block.
In my opinion, the stump-pulling, low end torque of a big block is the way to go!
eightTfourTA: Thanks alot for the info!!
I'll just install the hanger and rods first, then adjust the air valve as RB mentioned, so I don't end up tweaking it in twice. They should be pretty inexpensive right?
- Doesn't matter anyways, cause when you're in as deep as I am into this car, it's all just chump change.
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