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CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
So I tried to do that but I quickly realized, my bracket is too lose and wouldn't hold in place for me to check WOT. I tried to tighten it down but it kept loosening... Here's a video.
The pull of the cable will tend to rotate that piece back till it stops against the other portion of the bracket so just let it do that. It does look like it also needs more tightening. You may have to put in some spacers to bring that whole bracket assembly out slightly to line up with the linkage better.
Since your using a factory intake and an Edelbrock Carb,....... Why don't you just use a factory Carb throttle bracket ??
I remember trying to get that Spectra bracket to work years ago and finally ditched it and modified a stock bracket instead. (I HAD to use something other than completely stock because it was mounted to a high-rise Edelbrock intake) In your case; you've still got a stock intake and using a stock cable bracket really will simplify things for you.
Since your using a factory intake and an Edelbrock Carb,....... Why don't you just use a factory Carb throttle bracket ??
I remember trying to get that Spectra bracket to work years ago and finally ditched it and modified a stock bracket instead. (I HAD to use something other than completely stock because it was mounted to a high-rise Edelbrock intake) In your case; you've still got a stock intake and using a stock cable bracket really will simplify things for you.
I had a beat up one on the car (it came with it on) and I wanted to replace it because it looked so beat up and rusted.
Any specific one you recommend?
I had a beat up one on the car (it came with it on) and I wanted to replace it because it looked so beat up and rusted.
Any specific one you recommend?
In your case I would recommend that you take the rusty looking stock one , buff the rust off with a (fine wire) wire wheel , hit it with a couple of coats of high temp engine paint* in your choice of color , and consider it "problem solved" .
* Not that it's all that hot where the bracket mounts , it's just that I find the high temp engine paint lasts longer than the regular stuff does .
I concur. Sandpaper and some rustoleum should do the trick on the original bracket. Often times these inexpensive aftermarket parts aren't worth the trouble.
In your case I would recommend that you take the rusty looking stock one , buff the rust off with a (fine wire) wire wheel , hit it with a couple of coats of high temp engine paint* in your choice of color , and consider it "problem solved" .
* Not that it's all that hot where the bracket mounts , it's just that I find the high temp engine paint lasts longer than the regular stuff does .
That's what I did about a week or so ago. My issue now is that the screw that bolted it down now no longer tightens. The bracket is super loose after a good 10 minutes of trying to tighten it down
Sounds like the threads are stripped. That's a little more advanced problem to tackle. Which threads won't tighten down? The ones on the aftermarket bracket or the threaded holes for the original bracket?
Sounds like the threads are stripped. That's a little more advanced problem to tackle. Which threads won't tighten down? The ones on the aftermarket bracket or the threaded holes for the original bracket?
Lets get you on track. You need to use the original factory bracket. Repairing the threads is not that hard.
First we need to identify the size of the thread. Now I'm going to guess that it's 8mm x 1.25, but if anyone else in the crowd here could enlightenment us as to the probable size of that fastener.....
Lets get you on track. You need to use the original factory bracket. Repairing the threads is not that hard.
First we need to identify the size of the thread. Now I'm going to guess that it's 8mm x 1.25, but if anyone else in the crowd here could enlightenment us as to the probable size of that fastener.....
11mm (0.433") is going to actually be a 7/16" (0.4375"). No manufacturers actually use 11mm head fasteners. So we are not dealing with a metric bolt here.
My new guess is 5/16 x 18. So that would be this kit:
11mm (0.433") is going to actually be a 7/16" (0.4375"). No manufacturers actually use 11mm head fasteners. So we are not dealing with a metric bolt here.
My new guess is 5/16 x 18. So that would be this kit:
This is a tool that will undoubtedly come in handy again. It can repair damaged threads multiple times. If used carefully you can generally expect them to be good for 25+ uses. It comes with about 25 inserts.
And yes wait till others confirm my size estimate.
If that is a quadrajet intake, then the threads are NOT METRIC.
Um, guys, I just went back and looked at all the photos and videos. I think Chelsea has that Edelbrock carb bolted to a Quadrajet intake WITH NO ADAPTER. If so, there is no way the throttle blades can open fully. Anyone else see that?
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 07-17-2019 at 03:08 AM.
You can pick up a Heli-Coil kit at any parts store. Hanging in the Tools section usually. While that particular size isn't as immensely useful as say 3/8"-16 for example would be, it's still a handy thing to have around for occasions like this.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...tem/557017_0_0 for example. You'll need to stop by the hardware store and pick up whatever drill bit it says it wants, if you buy this one; the package will tell you. Some other brands of kits come with the bit. DO NOT try to use any other drill size besides what it calls out for: there is NO SUCH THING as "close enough".
You could theoretically make it 8mm if you felt like it, since that's essentially the same diameter, but it's usually wise to always make repaired holes back EXACTLY like they came from the factory. Unexpected weird things can happen if you change sizes. I don't recommend it at all.
Drill out the original threads in the hole all the way to the full depth, even though the insert itself won't go all the way down; that is, drill until you can see that the bit has bottomed out by the machine marks. Don't go any farther than that though. Then use a drop of oil on the tap threads, and tap it until the tap just hits the bottom. Screw the insert in until the end of it is just under flush to the surface, then take a small punch and break off the inner end of it, and if at all possible, get the broken-off piece out of the hole. Compressed air is sometimes a handy way to do that.
You'll find this repair to be so amazingly eeeeeeezy, you won't believe you've spent as much money time effort and trouble on trying to work around it, and how crappy those aftermarket bracket things are by comparison. I'm thinking you've already wasted more money on those than it would have cost to just do it right in the first place. Oh well, we've all made installment payments on the dumba$$ tax, myself included; if I had all those back today that I've had to lay out over the years, I'd be … well, not quite "wealthy"... but I'd certainly have a nice pile. Sometimes it's a live-and-learn situation. Asking the right question at the start of the project helps. In this case, if you had started out with "I stripped this bolt hole how do I fix it" instead of "I bought this $hitty part that doesn't fit how do I make it work", you would have avoided all this. Maybe next time.
.....Um, guys, I just went back and looked at all the photos and videos. I think Chelsea has that Edelbrock carb bolted to a Quadrajet intake WITH NO ADAPTER. If so, there is no way the throttle blades can open fully. Anyone else see that?
This is a great observation on NoEmission's part here , I'm no expert by any means myself on aftermarket parts (My mechanical training/experience is from a world where it's "Factory parts only") but I have read that certain carb/intake combinations do require a spacer to keep the throttle blades from hitting (and not opening all the way) .
Still working on it? I hope.
It might be a bigger job than you are willing to tackle, but you could change the intake manifold to a square bore type and that will directly accept your carb without an adapter. Then you also do not have to repair that stripped bolt hole for the throttle linkage.
Think about it, especially since the intake manifold gaskets always fail at some point in time.
Woooooo this is a lot of messages I didn't get a notification for.
First, I left it all alone until I got a "go" to purchase the right size heli. I haven't done anything else to the bracket since then.
When I first got the car, I was told by someone on here to get a heat insulator gasket. Ill post a pic of what I was told to buy. I did purchase it and mounted it. however..... The "mechanic" friend of my step dad told me I DID NOT NEED IT. so I'm seriously starting to doubt this guy's "mechanic" background.
The link of the adapter, is that the exact one I need? I'll buy it but I don't want to look for it myself (I'm an idiot and will probably buy the wrong one). I'll buy whatever you guys say to.
Also, just out of curiosity.. How do you guys know what intake I have? How can I figure it out myself? Would it be better to buy a new intake(how much are those?) or better to get an adapter?
This adapter plate... I mount it then mount the carb onto that one, then those plates will open? Will the adapter also help with my throttle/TV cable alignment? What does the "1932" mean? Just the part number kinda like my carb is 1406?
I hope to hear from you guys soon! Thanks!
Last edited by ChelseaHere; 08-04-2019 at 11:33 PM.
Reason: Typo
Woooooo this is a lot of messages I didn't get a notification for.
First, I left it all alone until I got a "go" to purchase the right size heli. I haven't done anything else to the bracket since then.
When I first got the car, I was told by someone on here to get a heat insulator gasket. Ill post a pic of what I was told to buy. I did purchase it and mounted it. however..... The "mechanic" friend of my step dad told me I DID NOT NEED IT. so I'm seriously starting to doubt this guy's "mechanic" background.
The link of the adapter, is that the exact one I need? I'll buy it but I don't want to look for it myself (I'm an idiot and will probably buy the wrong one). I'll buy whatever you guys say to.
Also, just out of curiosity.. How do you guys know what intake I have? How can I figure it out myself? Would it be better to buy a new intake(how much are those?) or better to get an adapter?
This adapter plate... I mount it then mount the carb onto that one, then those plates will open? Will the adapter also help with my throttle/TV cable alignment? What does the "1932" mean? Just the part number kinda like my carb is 1406?
I hope to hear from you guys soon! Thanks!
Okay, your picture. What does it say where I circled in yellow? We can identify your intake with that. List any other numbers on the intake you find.
When you had the carb off, did it look like this (below)? This is a quadrajet intake and matches the bottom of the carb that was on there.
This intake will not work with your Edelbrock carb without an adapter. The pic below shows why. The throttle plates will hit the intake and will never open fully.
If your intake looks like one of these (below), then your carb can bolt on without any adapters.
This is another type of adapter/spacer that will work for you. The one previously mentioned above will also work. This one is a "4 hole" (below, top) and keeps each bank of the engine divided. The one (below, middle) is "open" and lets each side of the engine "talk" to the other. The last one has a removable center, so you can select as needed.
Keep in mind that any time you use a carb adapter/spacer, the thickness of that spacer is going to raise the carb and air cleaner up the same thickness of that spacer. Depending on the height of the intake manifold, you might now have a problem where you can't close the hood.
Let's identify your intake first. Then we can decide on the best (and most cost effective) route to take.
Correct - 1932 is the part number of the open adapter.
BTW, this is all part of hot-rodding. Get used to it. When you change one part to something different, there are usually about four other parts that have to be changed to go along with the first part. And four parts for each of the previous four parts. And so on, and so on........
DON'T LET IT GET YOU DOWN. You can do this.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-05-2019 at 12:57 AM.
Okay, your picture. What does it say where I circled in yellow? We can identify your intake with that. List any other numbers on the intake you find.
When you had the carb off, did it look like this (below)? This is a quadrajet intake and matches the bottom of the carb that was on there.
This intake will not work with your Edelbrock carb without an adapter. The pic below shows why. The throttle plates will hit the intake and will never open fully.
If your intake looks like one of these (below), then your carb can bolt on without any adapters.
This is another type of adapter/spacer that will work for you. The one previously mentioned above will also work. This one is a "4 hole" (below, top) and keeps each bank of the engine divided. The one (below, middle) is "open" and lets each side of the engine "talk" to the other. The last one has a removable center, so you can select as needed.
Keep in mind that any time you use a carb adapter/spacer, the thickness of that spacer is going to raise the carb and air cleaner up the same thickness of that spacer. Depending on the height of the intake manifold, you might now have a problem where you can't close the hood.
Let's identify your intake first. Then we can decide on the best (and most cost effective) route to take.
Correct - 1932 is the part number of the open adapter.
BTW, this is all part of hot-rodding. Get used to it. When you change one part to something different, there are usually about four other parts that have to be changed to go along with the first part. And four parts for each of the previous four parts. And so on, and so on........
DON'T LET IT GET YOU DOWN. You can do this.
I believe my intake says "street dominator",which I think is a holley intake? It also has 2 large rectangular holes. I previously made a video where I mount my carb. This should help show what I got!
Okay, good, you do not need a carb adapter and hood clearance should not be an issue.
My bet is that you have either one of these.
Unfortunately, Holley used the Street Dominator name on about four different intake manifolds. Unless there is a number on the top side, they are usually cast into the underside. Were the two rectangular holes like the top picture, or rounded like the bottom? (I can't view your video on this computer).
Now we can work on finding you a throttle cable/TV cable bracket that WILL work properly for your configuration.
You might not even have to heli-coil that stripped hole.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-05-2019 at 07:11 PM.
Okay, good, you do not need a carb adapter and hood clearance should not be an issue.
My bet is that you have either one of these.
Unfortunately, Holley used the Street Dominator name on about four different intake manifolds. Unless there is a number on the top side, they are usually cast into the underside. Were the two rectangular holes like the top picture, or rounded like the bottom? (I can't view your video on this computer).
Now we can work on finding you a throttle cable/TV cable bracket that WILL work properly for your configuration.
You might not even have to heli-coil that stripped hole.
I was able to screenshot a pic from that video. Hopefully you can see the intake shape. But I believe it's more rounded... So the bottom pic! What do you think?
We also have to do something about your throttle return spring. That's just so not right!
I previously asked the previous owner about it. He said he put it there and attached it to one of the pulleys on the front of the engine because it felt "right" there. I didn't question it haha!
But, if you don't mind me asking... what makes it "not right"? The location, size, or tension?? Or how it's kinda spread apart rather than like a coil?
This is what heli-coil repaired threads look like. It is a stainless steel threaded insert. But whoever did these forgot to break off the tangs at the bottom.
This is what heli-coil repaired threads look like. It is a stainless steel threaded insert. But whoever did these forgot to break off the tangs at the bottom.
Oh I see! Has it been confirmed the size I need? Do I still need them? I think someone meantioned I may not need it?
Stock is connected on the bottom side of the linkage going towards the rear.
You are going to want one of these.
Mount it under the bolt that is circled in yellow, bend the bracket a little to face it straight up, and connect the spring there.
Don't try to reuse your spring - it's too stretched out.
Like this:
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-05-2019 at 09:53 PM.
I'm working on it right now. I'm gonna solve this throttle cable bracket problem once-and-for-all.
I looked at brackets online for over an hour. Reviews are not definitive as to whether they work or not. Some say YES, some say NO.
If any other members that KNOW of a bracket that 100% works with an Edelbrock Performer carb and the stock throttle and TV cables, then PLEASE save me the time and let us all know what works.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-07-2019 at 12:14 AM.
Sorry about the old crappy digital camera. Here are some pics comparing a QJET carb to a Edelbrock Performer on my 334 SBC on my engine test stand.
My intake is a Weiand 8000, but it is close enough to Chelsea's Holley Street Dominator for this comparison. Right now, I have the Edelbrock carb on the engine because I used it to break in the camshaft. I will be using the QJet when the engine goes in the car. The stock throttle bracket (for the QJet) is mounted on the intake.
I know it's not easy to see with everything painted black, but with this stock carb bracket the TV cable is located 1" INBOARD (towards the carb) relative to the throttle cable mounting location (the notched squares). Look at the QJet linkage and you will see why. The Edelbrock linkage has both in the same plane (no offset). This is part of the reason that the cables look cattywompus when doing this conversion.
OK, back to measurements. The TV cable mounting point (larger notched square) is 7/8" FORWARD of the the smaller notched square for the throttle cable (offset).
Relative to the stud holding the valve cover (top, right), the throttle cable is 9/16" rearward and the TV cable is 5/16" forward.
We need to find a bracket that will get the mounting points for the cables in nearly the same forward/rearward locations, EXCEPT the TV cable needs to be OUTWARD (towards valve cover) of the THR cable. Chelsea already has the TV corrector on her carb.
Stock QJet carb bracket with 700R4 Stock QJet carb bracket with 700R4 Stock QJet carb bracket with 700R4 Stock QJet carb bracket with 700R4 Look at where it is bolted Stock QJet carb bracket with 700R4 Look at where it is bolted QJet on top Edel Performer on bottom QJet on top Edel Performer on bottom Linkage comparison Look at the TV cable attachment stud
This is the closest I have found so far. Edelbrock 8031 ($50.+), but I think it would position both cables too far back towards the firewall.
The top square notch would not get used.
It would be nice if one of these worked, but these are for Holley carbs. MODIFY maybe?
Or is one of these the answer? But no TV cable attachment piece.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-07-2019 at 03:08 AM.
This is the closest I have found so far. Edelbrock 8031 ($50.+), but I think it would position both cables too far back towards the firewall.
The top square notch would not get used.
It would be nice if one of these worked, but these are for Holley carbs. MODIFY maybe?
Or is one of these the answer? But no TV cable attachment piece.
Thank you a ton for all the help and info... I'm just as clueless about which bracket to get... Hopefully someone has an answer soon!
I looked on amazon and found that spring y someone previously mentioned. Would these work???
I have that Edelbrock bracket, albeit the Vortec intake version. Alignment is alright but it flexes pretty bad at the TV cable bracket. When the TV cable starts getting tight it starts to deflect. At wide open throttle it flexes about 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch or so. When I get off my *** and get around to finishing all the tiny things wrong with it, I was planning on trying to put a little gusset on it to strengthen it. I originally got it because I wanted to hook cruise control back up. The upper bracket doesn't fit under my drop base Edelbrock air cleaner, though. I bent it over as a temporary solution.
Thanks Jorlain. There are mixed reviews on the Edelbrock bracket. Those that have the skills cut & weld it into what works. I can't believe that so many years later, nobody has made a bolt-on bracket that actually works. The Holley piece is a good start, it would just have to be modified to mount off of both rear carb studs. That bracket has the 7/8" offset between the 2 cables - the TV cable being forward.
I'm so disgusted by this, that I just might order 2 brackets and modify both - 1 for me and 1 for Chelsea.
If these 2 brackets got together and had a baby, then that would be the answer. Like below.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 08-08-2019 at 01:44 AM.
Thank you a ton for all the help and info... I'm just as clueless about which bracket to get... Hopefully someone has an answer soon!
I looked on amazon and found that spring y someone previously mentioned. Would these work???
I was able to screenshot a pic from that video. Hopefully you can see the intake shape. But I believe it's more rounded... So the bottom pic! What do you think?
Chelsea, I see that your intake has both sets of carb mounting holes. You are now using the outers for the studs. Is that because of the holes in the carb base gasket? Are any of those 8 threads stripped?
Trying to find proper brackets is way more difficult than it should be, for sure. I see people complain about them all the time but the manufacturers don't seem to take notice. Things get even muddier yet when looking for Vortec intake compatible brackets.
07-16-2019, 12:34 PM
but I'm sure I can buy it here soon. I'll wait on it until I get the "go" from you guys. 
