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CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
I was able to screenshot a pic from that video. Hopefully you can see the intake shape. But I believe it's more rounded... So the bottom pic! What do you think?
Chelsea, I see that your intake has both sets of carb mounting holes. You are now using the outers for the studs. Is that because of the holes in the carb base gasket? Are any of those 8 threads stripped?
Trying to find proper brackets is way more difficult than it should be, for sure. I see people complain about them all the time but the manufacturers don't seem to take notice. Things get even muddier yet when looking for Vortec intake compatible brackets.
Chelsea, I see that your intake has both sets of carb mounting holes. You are now using the outers for the studs. Is that because of the holes in the carb base gasket? Are any of those 8 threads stripped?
I don't believe any of those are stripped. That's how the carb came mounted. So I took it off and rebuilt the carb. Shortly later, I just bought a new carb. I then had my mechanic install it.
Thanks Jorlain. There are mixed reviews on the Edelbrock bracket. Those that have the skills cut & weld it into what works. I can't believe that so many years later, nobody has made a bolt-on bracket that actually works. The Holley piece is a good start, it would just have to be modified to mount off of both rear carb studs. That bracket has the 7/8" offset between the 2 cables - the TV cable being forward.
I'm so disgusted by this, that I just might order 2 brackets and modify both - 1 for me and 1 for Chelsea.
If these 2 brackets got together and had a baby, then that would be the answer. Like below.
I'll trust your modification skills. I'll pay for the bracket and the labor to make it right!! Let me know if you're acually considering it!
But I need to see more to the right. Aim your camera pointed like the green arrow. Hold it just above the valve cover, inline with the valve cover t-bolt.
But I need to see more to the right. Aim your camera pointed like the green arrow. Hold it just above the valve cover, inline with the valve cover t-bolt.
Those pics are perfect. Here is what I have come up with so far. Using the valve cover t-bar for reference, the TV cable grip point (large square) needs to be 5/16" AHEAD of that t-bar, and the THR grip point (small square) needs to be 9/16" BEHIND. The entire bracket will mount off of the rear carb stud and you don't have to worry about that stripped bolt hole.
Members chime in please. Tell me what you think.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; Aug 8, 2019 at 11:54 PM.
So I found some scrap angles and metal shapes and I think I have what I need to fabricate a bracket from scratch.
Chelsea, I am assuming that your car originally had a quadrajet carb (see underhood label on fan shroud if not sure) and that the THR & TV cables are what came with the car? If so, then your car matches mine and I can use my setup to make you a bracket.
So I found some scrap angles and metal shapes and I think I have what I need to fabricate a bracket from scratch.
Chelsea, I am assuming that your car originally had a quadrajet carb (see underhood label on fan shroud if not sure) and that the THR & TV cables are what came with the car? If so, then your car matches mine and I can use my setup to make you a bracket.
Wooooo!! Sounds good! How much is that bracket you meantioned you'd have to purchase? Or do you plan to make one from scrap? Let me know how much I owe you
Stock cables?
I don't plan on purchasing any brackets - 100% fabricated. The hardest part is filing out those notched squares.
Let's see how it goes. If easy, just pay shipping.
Stock cables?
I don't plan on purchasing any brackets - 100% fabricated. The hardest part is filing out those notched squares.
Let's see how it goes. If easy, just pay shipping.
I do believe it's stock cables yes
Shipping isn't usually too expensive. I'm in Portland Oregon
I do believe it's stock cables yes
Shipping isn't usually too expensive. I'm in Portland Oregon
Shipping prices went up. I recently sent a light little box to another member by USPS and it cost $8.60 for 3 day Priority.
Their smallest "if-it-fits-it-ships" box is even cheaper, though. The bracket should fit in one of those boxes.
I have the individual pieces made. They just need to be welded together.
Chelsea, I have the notch (bump) for the TV cable facing the valve cover. Will that be a problem? I think the end of that cable can rotate around.
Similar to this bracket.
I have the individual pieces made. They just need to be welded together.
Chelsea, I have the notch (bump) for the TV cable facing the valve cover. Will that be a problem? I think the end of that cable can rotate around.
Similar to this bracket.
I think it's fine. It shouldn't cause any problems I don't think
Okay, so VHT satin black epoxy paint it is. And baked in my oven for 1 hour at 200 degrees.
This bracket will not flex. I just hope it drops right on without needing any modifications (like all the aftermarket brackets claim, but never do). If I got everything right, then WOT should work and the TV cable self-adjusts. I even left a hook for a carb return spring to give you an option. Order the other bracket and spring. You always want 2 springs for safety in case 1 breaks - no sudden WOT surprises. You can attach both springs to the other bracket, or one there and one here. Or both on here. Whatever you feel is gonna work best for you. And you don't need to repair that stripped hole.
Just attach this bracket to that rear carb stud and the pin will keep it from rotating.
I am including some flat washers to go under the carb hold-down nuts.
Oh, and you should always use anti-seize on any threads that go into aluminum. Spark plugs too.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; Aug 12, 2019 at 04:20 AM.
In all seriousness, depending on how long it takes you to put one of these together (I mean it'd have to be worth your time), I'm sure there are plenty of us that'd be willing to cough up some cash for brackets that actually work.
In all seriousness, depending on how long it takes you to put one of these together (I mean it'd have to be worth your time), I'm sure there are plenty of us that'd be willing to cough up some cash for brackets that actually work.
That bracket has over 12 hours into it. And I really needed to be working on getting my truck back on the road for winter. I just let 2 nice weather days go by to do it. Now it is going to rain.
But Chelsea needed help and in certain situations I just drop what I am doing and jump onto what someone else needs. I don't know why I do that, but I do. I didn't even make a copy for myself.
We still don't know if it is going to work. Chelsea will have to test it. My engine has a similar setup, so I used mine as a pattern and looked at her pictures, trying to account for every possibility. I hope it works the first time and needing no modifications.
These cars are 30+ years old now, and I can't believe that in all these years no company has stepped up to manufacture a bracket that actually bolts on and works.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; Aug 12, 2019 at 06:54 PM.
That bracket has over 12 hours into it. And I really needed to be working on getting my truck back on the road for winter. I just let 2 nice weather days go by to do it. Now it is going to rain.
But Chelsea needed help and in certain situations I just drop what I am doing and jump onto what someone else needs. I don't know why I do that, but I do. I didn't even make a copy for myself.
We still don't know if it is going to work. Chelsea will have to test it. My engine has a similar setup, so I used mine as a pattern and looked at her pictures, trying to account for every possibility. I hope it works the first time and needing no modifications.
These cars are 30+ years old now, and I can't believe that in all these years no company has stepped up to manufacture a bracket that actually bolts on and works.
Aww I greatly appreciate it. I'll have to owe you one for sure
That bracket has over 12 hours into it. And I really needed to be working on getting my truck back on the road for winter. I just let 2 nice weather days go by to do it. Now it is going to rain.
But Chelsea needed help and in certain situations I just drop what I am doing and jump onto what someone else needs. I don't know why I do that, but I do. I didn't even make a copy for myself.
We still don't know if it is going to work. Chelsea will have to test it. My engine has a similar setup, so I used mine as a pattern and looked at her pictures, trying to account for every possibility. I hope it works the first time and needing no modifications.
These cars are 30+ years old now, and I can't believe that in all these years no company has stepped up to manufacture a bracket that actually bolts on and works.
That bracket has over 12 hours into it. And I really needed to be working on getting my truck back on the road for winter. I just let 2 nice weather days go by to do it. Now it is going to rain.
But Chelsea needed help and in certain situations I just drop what I am doing and jump onto what someone else needs. I don't know why I do that, but I do. I didn't even make a copy for myself.
We still don't know if it is going to work. Chelsea will have to test it. My engine has a similar setup, so I used mine as a pattern and looked at her pictures, trying to account for every possibility. I hope it works the first time and needing no modifications.
These cars are 30+ years old now, and I can't believe that in all these years no company has stepped up to manufacture a bracket that actually bolts on and works.
Kudos to you , It's nice to see there are still people in the world who will help someone else , just because you can , with no expectation of reward outside of a heartfelt Thank You .
Nicely done .
An excellent piece of work! It sure is great to see folks helping each other out. Chelsea - if you need any additional help with fitment - you know I'm local.
VHT is not at all gasoline resistant. It will dissolve like a Styrofoam coffee cup.
I'd recommend epoxy paint instead.
I agree, an excellent piece of work, and an idea LONG overdue. For something that simple, yet that critical, it amazes me that none of the carb mfrs have dealt with it in the nearly 40 years since that transmission first appeared. Mind-boggling stupidity.
Okay, so VHT satin black epoxy paint it is. And baked in my oven for 1 hour at 200 degrees.....
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Not to be a wet blanket or anything, but...VHT is not at all gasoline resistant. It will dissolve like a Styrofoam coffee cup.......I'd recommend epoxy paint instead.....
Sofa , NoEmissions84TA said the VHT paint he used is Epoxy , is that good enough to not melt or is there a different Epoxy paint your thinking of ?
Since you brought it up Sofa, while we are waiting for Chelsea to get back to this and without hijacking her thread, I have to ask, is there a brand of spray can engine paint that actually does what they all claim to do - but don't ................... resist gasoline and NOT dissolve like a Styrofoam cup? I think I have tried them all over the years, even the "ceramics", and they all just almost instantly bubble up with the slightest bit of gasoline. What would you paint an intake manifold with?
Chelsea can't get the TV cable to ratchet - self adjust. Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the metal tab have to be depressed and the center of the cable be moved forward (towards carb linkage)? It's been a while for me.
The paints I have found to be most stable, are the epoxy-based ones, especially the ones that require baking. But not even those are 100%. Powder coating usually is not at all resistant. Some chassis paints are better than others. Merc engine enamel is better than most others that I've used.
As far as the adjusting thing, you push the latch thing in order to pull the cable sheath rearward; then the cable tension from the throttle valve bottoming out in the trans is supposed to pull the sheath forward when the throttle linkage goes to WOT. Some people get better results by having someone floor the throttle, making sure it goes to WOT (obviously if it doesn't, the whole system CANNOT work like it's supposed to); then depressing the latch and pushing the sheath rearward as far as they can get it to go. Sometimes after doing that you'd need to move it rearward one more notch. I'd guess that if the cable doesn't do its automatic thing, the problem is that the carb isn't getting opened to WOT. Check that first. In the photo that appears to be a problem... it looks like that throttle is about 30° from WOT, and the black cover over the cable is bottomed out against the end of the sheath. The cable sheath mount looks like it needs to be a good ½" rearward from where it is, maybe more. Inspection down the venturis with the pedal at WOT would tell.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the carb and pull the cable as far out as it will come and see how much sticks past the connection lug on the throttle linkage.
Also a picture down into the carb looking at the throttle blades with the pedal held down would be good.
Thanks guys. For my own curiosity, I printed that picture and I'm going to compare it to an Edelbrock carb I have at WOT.
Chelsea might just have to remove a little of that black sleeve on the THR cable.
The locations where the cables are snapped into came directly from my stock GM brackets and in post # 93 I show how the QJet and Edelbrock linkages are the same - except for needing the TV correction bracket needed with the Edelbrock carb, and my stock bracket with measurements. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ml#post6320829
Edit: so without actually being able to look down Chelsea's carb, I compared the picture of Chelsea's carb at WOT to my Edelbrock carb last night and she IS now getting WOT. There is a tang off of the throttle arm linkage (blue arrow) that limits the throttle plates from being opened any further than WOT by contacting the choke cam linkage just below it. Both her carb and mine look identical at WOT. And YES, I realize that the choke is ON. That does not make a difference. I tried it both ways.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; Aug 30, 2019 at 07:09 PM.
I NEVER Got a Notification For Any Of These Replies.. SORRY I'M LATE!
Here are some pics I took. One of the unmounted throddle cable being pulled... And one of the "looking straight down the carb". Along with other pics I thought might help! Old spring and location New springs (which do i use?!) and other thing (I forgot where it mounts to?)
Repeat what you did for the pictures, but allow the choke to warm up first. Or manually hold the choke linkage open to take it out of the equation.
Do the same for the weighted plate on the secondary side. In other words, make everything above the lower throttle plates open, so that when you check for WOT we can actually see down the carb to be sure you are actually getting WOT.
If you come up a little short, then you can use one of these bushings to connect the throttle cable in the large hole where your springs are now. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15218/10002/-1
They have 2 sizes depending on the bolt size going through the hole in your throttle cable. Measure that hole first.
Mount your new chrome spring bracket under the bolt circled in red. You can bend it some (if necessary) once it is mounted securely.
Both springs (the smaller one inside the larger one) will go from the top bracket hole to the small hole on the throttle arm circled in green.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; Sep 29, 2019 at 09:41 PM.
This is very similar to what you are trying to achieve. This setup uses a throttle rod (yours is a cable) and also uses the TV Made EZ by Bowtie Overdrives (you have the TV correction bracket). But the end result should work the same.
Are those pics with someone pressing the gas pedal to the floor?
What you should see is the lower throttle plates are straight up & down if you are getting full WOT.
You will be able to see the floor of the intake manifold like the pic in #121.
Are those pics with someone pressing the gas pedal to the floor?
What you should see is the lower throttle plates are straight up & down if you are getting full WOT.
You will be able to see the floor of the intake manifold like the pic in #121.
Yes I had someone flooring the pedal. My lower plates aren't up and down... So what's my next step to getting it there?
Yes I had someone flooring the pedal. My lower plates aren't up and down... So what's my next step to getting it there?
This bushing should do the trick.
Refer back to the pic where you are pulling on the detached throttle cable with the screwdriver. #143, 8th pic.
This bushing will fill that 1/2" hole where your return spring is hooked now, and allow you to connect the cable to the smaller hole in the center.
By this pic, it looks you only need an extra 1/4" of pull on the throttle lever to get WOT.
When the tang on the throttle arm hits the choke cam, the carb is at full WOT. That tang is the stop. (circled in yellow)
Work the linkage for yourself to see if it will work. You should get WOT before the black sleeve hits where the throttle cable snaps into the bracket. (blue circle)
Have someone floor the gas pedal and then you use your hand on the linkage to see how much more it needs to go to get WOT.
Make sure the choke is "OFF" while doing this.
This bushing should do the trick.
Refer back to the pic where you are pulling on the detached throttle cable with the screwdriver. #143, 8th pic.
This bushing will fill that 1/2" hole where your return spring is hooked now, and allow you to connect the cable to the smaller hole in the center.
By this pic, it looks you only need an extra 1/4" of pull on the throttle lever to get WOT.
When the tang on the throttle arm hits the choke cam, the carb is at full WOT. That tang is the stop. (circled in yellow)
Work the linkage for yourself to see if it will work. You should get WOT before the black sleeve hits where the throttle cable snaps into the bracket. (blue circle)
Have someone floor the gas pedal and then you use your hand on the linkage to see how much more it needs to go to get WOT.
Make sure the choke is "OFF" while doing this.
What is that adapter thing called? How much are they?
I greatly appreciate it. I'll have to owe you one for sure 
