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CarburetorsCarb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.
Hi all!
I recently purchased a new throddle bracket, and managed to install it. I just want to make sure I installed it correctly. Please let me know!
Thanks!
Chelsea , I do not like the angle the transmission's control cable is being pulled at , it's got such a "side pull" going on that the cable will wear out in a very short time . The throttle cable looks to be pulling at a bad angle as well , just maybe not quite as severe an angle as the transmission cable is . Were it mine , I'd want to see that geometry corrected such that a straight pull is being put on those cables so they may live a long and productive happy third gen life
Edited to add , it looks like a screw is missing on the transmission cable bracket as well .
Last edited by OrangeBird; 07-10-2019 at 09:51 AM.
Chelsea , I do not like the angle the transmission's control cable is being pulled at , it's got such a "side pull" going on that the cable will wear out in a very short time . The throttle cable looks to be pulling at a bad angle as well , just maybe not quite as severe an angle as the transmission cable is . Were it mine , I'd want to see that geometry corrected such that a straight pull is being put on those cables so they may live a long and productive happy third gen life
Edited to add , it looks like a screw is missing on the transmission cable bracket as well .
Thanks for the response!
The screw won't go into that hole due to the Tranny cable having some weird half moon shape thing blocking the hole. I could only fit 1 screw.
Could you send me pics of your bracket? So I can see where I've gone wrong? Is there anything you see that I could correct in order to straight up my cables?
Hope to hear from you soon! Thanks!
Thanks for the response!
The screw won't go into that hole due to the Tranny cable having some weird half moon shape thing blocking the hole. I could only fit 1 screw.
Could you send me pics of your bracket? So I can see where I've gone wrong? Is there anything you see that I could correct in order to straight up my cables?
Hope to hear from you soon! Thanks!
Hi Chelsea , I'm sorry but pictures of mine will do you no good , my car is fuel injected and has the factory brackets . The brackets you have look to be aftermarket , as well as your carb , and will need to be set up particular to your specific installation . The biggest thing is that the cable (especially the transmission one cause it's angle is most severe) has to pull straight out of it's housing and not angled pulling against the side of it's housing if it's gonna last long term .
Hi Chelsea , I'm sorry but pictures of mine will do you no good , my car is fuel injected and has the factory brackets . The brackets you have look to be aftermarket , as well as your carb , and will need to be set up particular to your specific installation . The biggest thing is that the cable (especially the transmission one cause it's angle is most severe) has to pull straight out of it's housing and not angled pulling against the side of it's housing if it's gonna last long term .
The bracket I got on amazon. I removed the old bracket and installed the new one. I'll take a look today at what I can do but I'm unsure if I can do anything really... It's mounted in the correct holes but I'm thinking the bracket itself is the wrong size???
The problem is the stock bracket and cables are intended to work with the stock intake setup. Even a Q-jet bracket and cables won't line up right with a Holley or Edelbrock carb. The throttle cable isn't too picky, as long as it opens the throttle completely, and relaxes enough to close the throttle, it's ok. The TV cable for the 700r4 is much more picky. If it's not right, it'll kill the trans.
Get on the google and search for "700r4 throttle bracket Edelbrock carb" start reading. The bracket needs to be precisely located and the stud on the carb has to be in the right place or the 700r4 will not be happy.
The problem is the stock bracket and cables are intended to work with the stock intake setup. Even a Q-jet bracket and cables won't line up right with a Holley or Edelbrock carb. The throttle cable isn't too picky, as long as it opens the throttle completely, and relaxes enough to close the throttle, it's ok. The TV cable for the 700r4 is much more picky. If it's not right, it'll kill the trans.
Get on the google and search for "700r4 throttle bracket Edelbrock carb" start reading. The bracket needs to be precisely located and the stud on the carb has to be in the right place or the 700r4 will not be happy.
I did some googling... I found out MANY people have problems with the 1406 carb and the 700r4 tranny. I'm thinking it's best to switch my tranny cable bracket back to the stock one I had. I believe I should be able to keep the throddle bracket though. Unless there's also something WRONG with that one. Here's a pic off Google.
What do you guys think?
Typically, though, you, you need to correct the geometry of the TV cable when you got to an aftermarket carburetor. This is what it looks like (and is one of the less expensive options).
Typically, though, you, you need to correct the geometry of the TV cable when you got to an aftermarket carburetor. This is what it looks like (and is one of the less expensive options).
That'd probably be fine. I'd add in the TV cable bracket I mentioned above to make sure the geometry is correct (required on aftermarket carburetors as the sweep on the existing bracket is meant for kick-down cables, not throttle valve cables).
It also looks like the throttle cable isn't fitting into that bracket properly. I'm trying to remember - is there normally a U-clip or something that holds it in there square and steady? Or maybe the bracket is simply too large for the throttle cable. My concern would be that it might fall out of the hole somehow while driving and then you'd effectively lose your throttle. A couple zip ties to hold it in place would probably work in a pinch.
That'd probably be fine. I'd add in the TV cable bracket I mentioned above to make sure the geometry is correct (required on aftermarket carburetors as the sweep on the existing bracket is meant for kick-down cables, not throttle valve cables).
It also looks like the throttle cable isn't fitting into that bracket properly. I'm trying to remember - is there normally a U-clip or something that holds it in there square and steady? Or maybe the bracket is simply too large for the throttle cable. My concern would be that it might fall out of the hole somehow while driving and then you'd effectively lose your throttle. A couple zip ties to hold it in place would probably work in a pinch.
I don't Think I pushed it in deep enough to "click" into place. But it has two sides that are flared kinda like a fish barb. Other than that, I don't have a U clip. I'll have to look into the tip tie method. I should have some laying around, I just finished tying up my cluddered wires!
I believe you already have the TV corrector. It is in your first pic.
My concern is that you are not getting full throttle. To me it looks like there is not enough cable showing to allow it. Look down the carb while someone else floors the pedal (engine not running, of course).
I believe you already have the TV corrector. It is in your first pic.
My concern is that you are not getting full throttle. To me it looks like there is not enough cable showing to allow it. Look down the carb while someone else floors the pedal (engine not running, of course).
Is my throddle cable supposed to be tight? I believe when the gas pedel is pressed, it pulled that throddle cable which then pulls the spring thing until the gas pedel is released? But what am I looking for when looking down the carb while someone floors it? Sorry if its a ridiculous question haha
Ah, crud. Thanks, NoEmissions84TA. I totally missed it.
With the accelerator fully depressed in the car, your throttle blades should be fully open. That is, they should be vertical, so that they do not impede the air flowing through them. Typically, the blades are closed (or at least mostly closed). What you're doing when you're pressing the throttle is you're opening those blades further which allows more air to flow into the engine, and consequently more fuel due to the Venturi effect.
Looks like the holley style throttle bracket that is supposed to have a bushing installed into the larger hole up top for the throttle cable to attach to. a return spring is attached there now.
Ah, crud. Thanks, NoEmissions84TA. I totally missed it.
With the accelerator fully depressed in the car, your throttle blades should be fully open. That is, they should be vertical, so that they do not impede the air flowing through them. Typically, the blades are closed (or at least mostly closed). What you're doing when you're pressing the throttle is you're opening those blades further which allows more air to flow into the engine, and consequently more fuel due to the Venturi effect.
See the lower plates down inside the carb (last pic). Those are the throttle plates. When the pedal is floored, those should be straight up-and-down.
But if the choke is cold, it will lock out the secondary side (only the primary side is allowed to open). Since you have electric choke, you can just turn the ignition key to RUN (not start) and wait a few minutes for it to warm up and the top choke plate will open (like you are holding it open with your fingers). Then when the pedal is floored, both pairs of lower plates should be completely vertical if you are getting full throttle.
See the lower plates down inside the carb (last pic). Those are the throttle plates. When the pedal is floored, those should be straight up-and-down.
But if the choke is cold, it will lock out the secondary side (only the primary side is allowed to open). Since you have electric choke, you can just turn the ignition key to RUN (not start) and wait a few minutes for it to warm up and the top choke plate will open (like you are holding it open with your fingers). Then when the pedal is floored, both pairs of lower plates should be completely vertical if you are getting full throttle.
When I had someone floor it, something inside (I assume the plates) moved but I didn't look to see what or how. Then I had them depress the brakes and press again. It didn't seem to move anything anymore. Could it be because I have several things not installed on the car? I got the alternator, starter and some other stuff off the car waiting to be installed. Could this effect it not moving when the pedal is pressed?
When I had someone floor it, something inside (I assume the plates) moved but I didn't look to see what or how. Then I had them depress the brakes and press again. It didn't seem to move anything anymore. Could it be because I have several things not installed on the car? I got the alternator, starter and some other stuff off the car waiting to be installed. Could this effect it not moving when the pedal is pressed?
No, it is just a cable pulling on the throttle linkage at this point. More to follow.
Someone is flooring the gas pedal here. See how any further movement of the cable is stopped (yellow circle)? That would be OK IF you are getting full throttle. But I doubt it. If not, then you need to adjust the bracket rearward (towards firewall, pink arrow) until you can get full throttle. The pic below shows what yours should look more like.
This is what WOT wide open throttle looks like (from the underside of the carb).
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 07-12-2019 at 10:58 PM.
Someone is flooring the gas pedal here. See how any further movement of the cable is stopped (yellow circle)? That would be OK IF you are getting full throttle. But I doubt it. If not, then you need to adjust the bracket rearward (towards firewall, pink arrow) until you can get full throttle. The pic below shows what yours should look more like.
So to my understanding, I'm not getting full throddle. Is there a way I can fix that? If not, it sounds like I need to get/make my bracket go further back towards the fire wall?
The throddle bracket thing I can slide back towards the firewall. But how far do I let it go? Is it supposed to be taught and not loose like it is? Would this fix the throddle?
Here is some pics. The brighter one I took off my pc. It's from months ago before I replaced my carb. I still have the bracket but it wasn't for my carb. It bolted to the back bolts of my carb but it was too short so it would only screw onto one of the bolts.
Loosen the screws (blue arrows), slide that part of the bracket back towards firewall, tighten screws. Check for full throttle. Repeat as necessary to get full throttle (last pic in post #21).
Loosen the screws (blue arrows), slide that part of the bracket back towards firewall, tighten screws. Check for full throttle. Repeat as necessary to get full throttle (last pic in post #21).
Okay. Just tightened down those screws. Here's some pics after I pushed it towards firewall. I did make a video I'll be posting shortly... But this was tighted after I found a spot before the entire throddle pulled the stuff (as if I pushed the pedal)
Ps, the plates wouldn't move unless I moved them myself...
You want the cable slightly loose, but bear in mind that you need to prop open the choke when making this adjustment to force the throttle linkage off its fast idle cam.
So in your video there you want to push it back toward the firewall and stop right before it begins to move the throttle linkage. But do this while holding the choke plate completely open to disengage the fast idle cam.
So to my understanding, I'm not getting full throddle. Is there a way I can fix that? If not, it sounds like I need to get/make my bracket go further back towards the fire wall?
or attach the cable to the higher position at the carb linkage using the bushing.
To make things a little easier, find something to wedge the top choke plate open - obviously something that can't fall down inside the carb and cause MAJOR problems. Then you can just concentrate on getting WOT correct. Getting WOT is step 1. If you don't get this right, nothing after is going to be right either.
That looks good - that should do nicely. In a perfect world there wouldn't be so much angle on the TV cable for the trans but this will do for now.
On the subject of the TV cable - you should adjust that also. To adjust you depress the adjustment release on the end of the cable and slide the adjuster as far into the end of the cable as you can. Then you apply wide open throttle several times and you should hear the adjuster ratchet into place with a couple loud pops. This will be the correct setting. It should be VERY tight at WOT. Like a guitar string. This pulls on the valve that adjusts the line pressure and shift points on your 700R4 and if not adjusted this way can lead to damage to the transmission.
Oh - and the "whatever this is" is the Throttle Lever. Makes sense right? Throttle Cable pulls on the Throttle Lever.... And note there is not such a thing as a Throddle... There are no D's in Throttle. Just some pointers so you sound like your know what you are doing. Keep it up and you'll be a proper shade tree soon enough.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; 07-13-2019 at 08:16 PM.
I didn't think I could **** off someone with mispronouncing something lol
Some people just come with their panties in a knot straight from the factory. There's no shame in not knowing. You did pretty good with phonics but for some things it just doesn't work. You are here asking questions and that's more than most young people these days. Just keep at it and soon you'll be showing off your skills to all your friends stuck on social media taking selfies.
Some people just come with their panties in a knot straight from the factory. There's no shame in not knowing. You did pretty good with phonics but for some things it just doesn't work. You are here asking questions and that's more than most young people these days. Just keep at it and soon you'll be showing off your skills to all your friends stuck on social media taking selfies.
That looks good - that should do nicely. In a perfect world there wouldn't be so much angle on the TV cable for the trans but this will do for now.
On the subject of the TV cable - you should adjust that also. To adjust you depress the adjustment release on the end of the cable and slide the adjuster as far into the end of the cable as you can. Then you apply wide open throttle several times and you should hear the adjuster ratchet into place with a couple loud pops. This will be the correct setting. It should be VERY tight at WOT. Like a guitar string. This pulls on the valve that adjusts the line pressure and shift points on your 700R4 and if not adjusted this way can lead to damage to the transmission.
Oh - and the "whatever this is" is the Throttle Lever. Makes sense right? Throttle Cable pulls on the Throttle Lever.... And note there is not such a thing as a Throddle... There are no D's in Throttle. Just some pointers so you sound like your know what you are doing. Keep it up and you'll be a proper shade tree soon enough.
GD
Is there a video you can refer me to? I just don't want to mess something up and destroy my transmission. I'm poor 😢
I could not find a video that dealt with factory style cables and gave proper information on adjustment. Most videos are dealing with older vehicles being retrofitted with the 700R4 and using universal cables which are different and will only confuse the situation.
Is there a video you can refer me to? I just don't want to mess something up and destroy my transmission. I'm poor 😢
You aint poor. You have a garage to work in and a Camaro to work on. You have a wealth of possibilities and a thirst for knowledge. Being poor is a state of mind. Just go out there and look around. You aint poor.
You aint poor. You have a garage to work in and a Camaro to work on. You have a wealth of possibilities and a thirst for knowledge. Being poor is a state of mind. Just go out there and look around. You aint poor.
GD
I have $3 in my wallet and I plan to spend it on a bag of hot cheetos hahaha
I could not find a video that dealt with factory style cables and gave proper information on adjustment. Most videos are dealing with older vehicles being retrofitted with the 700R4 and using universal cables which are different and will only confuse the situation.
GD
I appreciate you taking the time to find a video for me. I'm a visual learner rather than reading about how to do it lol
I read that link, to sum it up... My hafmoon shaped thing (I meantioned this shape previously) is a button that allows the "sleeve" to move over the cable. I press that D/"half moon" and move it towards the firewall. I then press the gas pedal (PEDAL TO THE METAL) which should result in some clicking sounds. These sounds are the thing adjusting. Did I miss anything?
Nope. That's pretty much the size of it. It's actually very easy.
Hot Cheetos are an excellent investment. Plenty of red dye #40. Which apparently is in the same family as crack. Linked to hyperactivity in children. LOL.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; 07-14-2019 at 12:52 PM.
Nope. That's pretty much the size of it. It's actually very easy.
Hot Cheetos are an excellent investment. Plenty of red dye #40. Which apparently is in the same family is crack. Linked to hyperactivity in children. LOL.
GD
GD you make me feel rich with your wealth of information,red dye #40 and crack, I am hooked!
07-09-2019, 06:43 PM
And stashed in an ammo can to boot , as is well befitting of their lethal abilities , , , , good job 
