Is there any reason why i can't use the non-egr performer ie #2101 with the 305 and q-jet? My egr is disconnected as not a requirement here. Cheers.

 

No reason at all.

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Cosmik Debris

 

I should work just fine but I have heard of the 305 havind detonation in the non-egr performer manifold. I don't know if it is true but at least you can hook everything up and make it street legal for inspection time.

 

Chris is right- you CAN get detonation with the non-EGR manifold. But it's not becuase of the manifold. It's becuase of the lack of EGR. One of the reasons for EGR is that it helps reduce combustion temps at part throttle, reducing emissions. That's good. The problem is that it allows GM to dial in quite a bit more spark advance at part throlttle, too. So without the EGR you end up with too much part throttle spark advance, and detonation. Nothing a tank full of high octane gas won't fix (usually). You already know what your engine will tolerate since you have already deactivated your EGR.


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94 Firebird Formula M6- No options but Z rated tires. No mods over $10. 13.5@105.
79 Malibu "beater" w/junkyard 400 SBC, tweaked QJet 4bbl, finally a decent set of heads, a few other tricks. A maddening 13.000001 @ 108 on the motor with little traction. No nitrous runs with the new heads yet.
Grandma's old 78 Malibu (33K miles!) soon to have the powertrain from the 79 put in it.

"One of the last remaining QJet tuners on Planet Earth!"

 

Thanks for the info. I ended up getting the 2101 Performer. OK dumb question time on the passengers side of the manifold adjacent the carb inlet there is a mount with a s shape hole in it with screw holes above and below. What is this for and is there a plate or something you can get to block this off? The current *stock* manifold has something similar in the same place but has a plate over it.
Cheers.

 

Sounds like you're talking about the hot air choke riser. Check your box again, it should have came with the block off plate for it. If not, it's probably available seperately.
...ed

 

And instead of retarding your timing to fix your knock, you (or someone else?) should read your BIN file, remove ALL the EGR spark advance, and then burn the PROM. That'll get rid of the knock and not adversely retard the ignition under non-egr conditions, like simply retarding the distributor would do...