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Help, inline fuel filter

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Old Feb 15, 2001 | 07:59 PM
  #1  
billyde's Avatar
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From: Austin TX
Help, inline fuel filter

Quick question, gotta replace my carb this weekend, and figured i'd go ahead and do away with the qjet filter and install an inline fuel filter but not sure where in between the carb and fuel pump would be the best spot and exactly how to plumb it in. I mean, should I just run the flexible (rubber)fuel line from the pump onto the filter, or should I leave some of the metal line that is there or what? Also, should I leave the section of metal line with the fitting that goes into the carb inlet? Also, inlet/outlet sizes would be helpful. Would appreciate the help saving me time figuring out what size is what and what I need. Thanks.

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1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
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Old Feb 15, 2001 | 09:45 PM
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The ODB's Avatar
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From: Belleville, IL USA
Generally you want a filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. You can always run another one right before the carb if you want.
The less rubber line you use the better. Pieces of the rubber break off into the fuel and can get into the carb causing problems like sticking between the needle and seat.

ODB

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Old Feb 19, 2001 | 11:23 AM
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five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Man, where do you come up with this stuff? The only "filter" between the tank and pump is "generally" a strainer. "Pieces of rubber break off into the fuel and get into the carb"? Okay, I haven't been around all that long (only been doing car stuff for about 35 years), but I've NEVER seen that...

Back to your questions, billy. It's probably too late, but: Keep as much of the metal line as possible. You should only run as much rubber as it takes to get the filter in (about the amount they typically come with). You want to avoid rubber of any length in the suction side because it will tend to collapse, especially when warm. But, you won't be putting the filter there, anyway.

A 3/8" filter will have the proper rubber tube size to work on your stock pump-to-carb line.

Some race sanctioning bodies limit the total length of rubber you can have in your fuel line. If you just use what comes with the filter, you'll be fine.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, WP 305 heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
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Old Feb 19, 2001 | 12:17 PM
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billyde's Avatar
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From: Austin TX
neah, not too late, haven't done my hack job yet. I also read you don't want anthing before the pump except a strainer. I guess I was just wondering if the metal line I cut needed to be flared or if I could just put the rubber fuel line over it and clamp her down. Thanks.

------------------
1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
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Old Feb 19, 2001 | 01:23 PM
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five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Cut, deburr, clean, clamp. No flaring necessary. In-line filters often come with a couple of short pieces of rubber tubing, about 1.5-2" long & some spring-type clamps. The screw-type clamps are a little more secure, but probably not necessary.
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