OK, I got my new quadrajet and I need suggestions...
OK, I got my new quadrajet and I need suggestions...
As I said I just got my carb back from Jet Performance where I had it rebuild completley to their Stage 2 specs. I don't know where they have everything set at and I'm not that great with carbs. What would be the best way to tune this in? should I just put it on and fire up th car and see what happens or should I adjust everything down and then tune back from there? what are your ideas? Thanks!
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1984 CAMARO BERLINETTA
355 HP VORTEC HEADED 350
350, Vortec heads, Crane High energy cam, edelbrock Air Gap intake(for Vortec heads!)
Pete Jackson gear drive, 9.5:1 comp, Edelbrock TES headers, high flow Cat, custom exhaust,
Hypertech HEI, Custom built 700R4 tranni by S&S Performance Transmission
3.73 10-bolt(soon to be 9bolt with rear disk) 2 3/4 cowl induction fiberglass hood.
------------------
1984 CAMARO BERLINETTA
355 HP VORTEC HEADED 350
350, Vortec heads, Crane High energy cam, edelbrock Air Gap intake(for Vortec heads!)
Pete Jackson gear drive, 9.5:1 comp, Edelbrock TES headers, high flow Cat, custom exhaust,
Hypertech HEI, Custom built 700R4 tranni by S&S Performance Transmission
3.73 10-bolt(soon to be 9bolt with rear disk) 2 3/4 cowl induction fiberglass hood.
Acquaint yourself with a few critical screws on the carb:
1. Idle mixture screws. One per primary bore, sticking forward out of the front of the carb, down low at slight angles away from eachother. Make sure they are set and EQUAL number of turns out from fully seated. Start at 3 full turns each and go from there. Should put you in the ballpark.
2. Choke break screw. It's on the arm of the little vacuum can on the pass. side of the carb pointing backwards. This determines how far the choke pops back open just after the engine starts. You want it adjusted so that the choke plate pops open about 3/16" after startup. But this is again, an approximation and you can play with it from there. If you aren't sure what the engine wants for a choke setting don't mess with it for the sake of messing with it.
3. High idle speed. When your choke pulls on there is a special high idle cam that advances the idle speed above normal until the choke fully releases. The adjustment screw is on the pass. side of the carb underneath all that choke linkage mess. It's got a hex head and a slot for a regular screwdriver. When installed on the car you can ONLY see it when the choke is fully on (cold). You see it from directly in front of the carb and look underneat the choke linkages.
4. Curb idle speed. The big screw on the driver's side of the carb that the throttle arm comes to rest against is the idle speed screw.
Good luck
1. Idle mixture screws. One per primary bore, sticking forward out of the front of the carb, down low at slight angles away from eachother. Make sure they are set and EQUAL number of turns out from fully seated. Start at 3 full turns each and go from there. Should put you in the ballpark.
2. Choke break screw. It's on the arm of the little vacuum can on the pass. side of the carb pointing backwards. This determines how far the choke pops back open just after the engine starts. You want it adjusted so that the choke plate pops open about 3/16" after startup. But this is again, an approximation and you can play with it from there. If you aren't sure what the engine wants for a choke setting don't mess with it for the sake of messing with it.
3. High idle speed. When your choke pulls on there is a special high idle cam that advances the idle speed above normal until the choke fully releases. The adjustment screw is on the pass. side of the carb underneath all that choke linkage mess. It's got a hex head and a slot for a regular screwdriver. When installed on the car you can ONLY see it when the choke is fully on (cold). You see it from directly in front of the carb and look underneat the choke linkages.
4. Curb idle speed. The big screw on the driver's side of the carb that the throttle arm comes to rest against is the idle speed screw.
Good luck
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