I'm thinking of trying to get a set of the rocker panel braces off of a convertible and put them on my hardtop, along with a set of Alston/TDS SFC's. Can any of you vert owners tell me what's involved, and what all parts are different from a coupe that I will need? (I have a '91) I have seen it mentioned that those parts are riveted on, which would make removal easy-is this true? TIA.

 

It appears in some places to be rivited, and others welded.

There is also a plate on the floor, under the carpet.

I know you have to cut your fenders.

 

Why?

I'd just get some Spohn or UMI or the like and use those.

 

If I understand those parts correctly they run all the forward and up the cowl/door post area. Farther forward than any of the SFC's and tie into an area that I think needs more support. I was thinking that by using these parts and then welding them on I might be able to get better support than common SFC's without excessive weight. I was also planning to use them in conjunction with Alston SFC's, which mount on a diagonal. I'm trying to stiffen up the car as much as I can without a cage, or excess weight/effort/cost. Might not be a good idea, and if I had a vert to look at I could probably answer my own question, but I don't know anybody that has one.
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What's different on the fenders?

 

They run from fender well to fender well. Go up as high as the bottom of the door. Not sure if I took a pic when my fender was off or not?

You have to cut the fender because the vert SFCS cover up the bolt area where the fender mounts to. You have to wack off about 3.5-4"(just below the GFX mount hole). Then since your not an orginal vert, come up with your own lower fender mounting. Verts got a plate rivted to the fender and a tab welded to the body.

 

Thanks. Sounds like it would be more trouble than it's worth.

 

Your choice, just trying to explain whats going on.

I agree that it would be best to see it for yourself if you could.

 

You can accomplish a better solution by getting a really good set of subframe connectors that bolt in and then weld them in. Competition Engineering used to make a really good set. I had a set for my 84 Camaro. What I did to the Competition Engineering ones was to cut off the two pieces that went from the center member to the sill and weld instead two pieces of 1/4inch steel. That way you dont have a loss of space. The plates hug the floor pan. You could even weld them to the floor or put in a couple of bolts from the top downward. I now have a 91 TAm convertible and I would give anything to have the subframe connector system I had before. I have the two runners as you said and believe me, they dont even compare. I am now restricted to the convertible type. I would go for the other type.

 

I recently bought subframe connectors off Ebay. I've got an 88 IROC vert, new to this since July, trying to do the right thing. My vert creaks/rattles, etc. Figured I needed to do something. Also was thinking of strut tower supports and a wonderbar. These are the connectors I bought - cut & pasted the description:

Brand new in the box Alston Racing Sub-Frame connectors for 87-92 Camaro / Firebird convertibles. These are powercoated gloss red and include Gr. 8 bolts and nylon-insert nuts and instructions. This allows you the option of installing them at home and driving your car to a shop to have them welded in place.
These SFC’s are markedly different in several key areas. They hug the contour of the underside of the car and bolt or weld (your choice) in to the front and rear sub-frames. The front saddle of the SFC exactly fits the transmission sub-frame. The rear saddle of it ties in at the rear sub-frame where the LCA's (Lower Control Arms) mount. This provides a continuous solid support tying in the front and rear sub-frames of the car. The SFC's also provide a convenient jacking point when you need to lift your car.

I'd sure appreciate any input since I'm a rookie at this. Thanks!

 

Like I said, if I had a choice I would do it the old fashioned way and put the proper sfcs that connect to the lower control arm, go down the sill and cross over to the center member at the trans. But, im not sure if yours has the already installed boxed sections down the sills ( they really dont do a good job). Mine are like that and I decided to put the Alstons to make life simply. I am also installing the wonder bar and the strut tower brace and Pro Kit lowering springs. Hopefully that will do a good job. I will be installing in the next several weeks. In no circumstance would I cut out the boxed sections down the sill because I think you are in for a lot of trouble. That is my 2cents worth.

 

I'm not cutting anything. I'm not planning on racing, just driving, would like to stretch it out from time to time, but want to get rid of the sounds that make you feel like it's loose. That's why I wanna do a tranny swap...want to drive it, not just go for a ride.

 

I wont suggest the attempt you are thinking of, its not as easy as you would even dare think and takes major skill, I understand the point of building the car to beat the hell out of it but use the strut tower bar, rear control arms and sub frame connecters and you should be alright as my 89 Is running 12.5-12.8 1/4 being a ttop and I havent had any problems yet, just my opinion though do whatever you want its your car