I got a new top put on and the frame still didn't latch right. Rather than take it back to the shop, I thought I would spend some quality time with my convertible top. I am happy to report I dialed it completely in and it opens and closes easily and stays closed. Doesn't rattle and is quite well sealed. I do not talk about windows glass as that is another topic. I will just talk about how I adjusted my top. The glass happened to line up perfectly after I had made a small adjustment.



Make sure all your bolts/hinge pins, are snug, not broken, missing etc. Check the bows to make sure they aren't bent. I do not discuss the down stops as they are intuitive and are only used when the top is stowed away. This procedure is for when the top is "up" or "deployed".

Setting the front of the top- locking pins and up stops.

Prep: Make sure the rear of the top (Bow5) is not locked into the tonneau cover (it should be free floating). ALSO, VERY IMPORTANT - Make sure the rear of window top rail goes INTO it's slot on the main tower at Bow 3. On my car, if I didn't make sure it lined up, it would often miss the slot and jam up a bit which messes up the top adjustment. This is highlighted above Bolt 84. My car apparently used to have plastic trim caps to keep that joint from rattling but mine were gone. I put a half of vacuum tube over it and then wrapped those ends with about ten wraps of electrical tape. Makes for a nice fix.

Settings:

The upstop bolts (the blue star and arrow in the diagram above) should be set so that the front locking pins drop down just slightly ABOVE their holes in the windshield bulkhead. This should be due to only the weight of the top, no pressing.

The tower mounting nuts and studs (Part 87 in the diagram) can be loosened a little and the top slid around to align the pins above their holes.

Secure these adjustments and move to the back.


Setting the back of the top- Bows 4 and 5 and rear latch pin

Make sure the front of the top is locked in and secured closed. Make sure your rear top release mechanism latches affirmatively and swing back completely when the release handle is released.

Prep: disconnect the rear stay pads from Bow 4 at Bow 4 (highlighted). On my car, they were not looped in but secured with a sheet metal screw. If yours area sewn in, you will need to cut the loops and then use self tapping sheet metal screws to reattach them to Bow 4. If you really don't want to cut them, you could remove the Bow 4 mounting bolts (part 79) from both sides and let the bow hang from there.

Arrange Bow 4 so that it is not touching the fabric at any time and is laying down towards Bow 5.

Settings:

Bow 5 can be adjusted by loosening the four allen head bolts (Bolts 85) that hold it to the center tower. There should be enough adjustment range to get the center rear latch pin right over the hole.

Bow 4 sets the tension on the whole top when the top is up and secured for covered driving. With Bow 5 locked down, swing Bow 4 up and gently support the top. It should just touch the top and put a light amount of tension on it. In this position, remount the rear stay pad straps with a little tension on them. If the bow touches the top too far to the back of the top (too close to the window etc), move the mounting location of Bow 4 towards the front of car (Parts 79 and 80). There should be an alternate mounting location (on my cart there was). If that isn't enough adjustment, keep moving it back. I ended up having to drill and tap a 10-32 hole on each side to bring the Bow 4 mounting point back far enough to support the top at the optimal spot and also work with the rear stay pads.

The top is now set and should be easy to work, stay closed, and be relatively sealed.

 

MODS If this is NOT a "Sticky" , it should be! Thanks Tootie, you gave me the info to get my right side, front bow pin to drop into place!

 

 

Just listening.

 

More than likely you'd have to adjust the top again after a new top and/or weather stripping is installed. Might want to wait and the rear bow seems like the only part than needs some work.

 

 

From the outside the front looks to be in the right spot (both sides). Even the ends of the weather strip contact looks good. If the leading edge of the top is 1/4 or so from the header i think thats about as far as the top will go Are the two pins in the holes?

On my buddies 89 his rear bow was like yours to a lesser extent. Provided the way your top is attached to the bow, if the tape is not pulling up the bow. I had my buddy hold the bow up with his arm, elbow on the tonneau, hand on the bow. While he held it up. I pushed down on the high side till it leveled out. Id make sure its not the tape thats causing that first though.