I just installed my Griffin radiator and this thing can cool. Just letting the car idle in my garage, the temp barely got above the unmarked line between 100 and 220. I guess that is about 160* which is perfect because I am running a 160* stat. Also I have the Edelbrock aluminum water pump. Only one fan on also. Never got hot enough for the other.

Just to let anyone know about the install who may be considering the Griffin. I follow some of what was posted on this board for installing the Griffin and it fits very well into the Camaro. I spent 4-5 hours today on the installation. I did however not reuse my factory upper radiator mount. I made a custom one out of aluminum. I also am using two 12" electric fans instead of the factory dual setup. I am hoping that all this together will solve my cooling problems for good.

As of now I am very optimistic, before I could watch the temp climb to 200 or greater while idling.

 

Thanks for the info. Which Griffin did you get. I am assuming the 31" X 19". I have a 92 RS with a 383 that I am currently working on, and I am going to need a better radiator. Are you running a seperate tranny cooler, or does that radiator have the cooler in it. I also would like to know if you have any pictures of your upper radiator support. I live in Homestead and only 1 1/2 hours away. Would you be interested in fabricating another upper radiator mount?

 

Yes, I used the 31x19. It has the dual 1" rows. The radiator does not have the trans cooler in it so I have a seperate trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I could make you or you could simply make your own upper mount. I used a piece of right angle structural aluminum and trimmed it to fit under the stock air snorkle on the TPI cars. It is not visible with the air snorkle in place. It is not elaborate or flashy, easy to make and functional.
I am more into function rather than apperance, if I can make something work, and have be hidden then right on in my book. But anyway if you want one, I think that can be arranged.

 

sounds like your very pleased...

i did an a rad swap but just put in another stock one.. i am happy.

 

92 zzz28, Thanks for the info. I'm waiting for it to cool off a bit before I start working on the machine again. I don't know about you, but the summer has been brutal down here. I have a bunch of rear suspension work to do first, but my radiator mod wil follow shortly there after. I'll try to fabricate something myself, but if I run into trouble, I'll certainly be giving you a buzz.

 

I did a motor and tranny swap during my summer off. I only worked until 10 am and then waited until 3 or later to continue working. Those peak sun hours make me feel faint.

It might cool off some in November. J/K

Good luck with your work.

 

I've got that same radiator myself and will install it when I finally get the rest of the car done. Glad to hear it works so well. Here in Phoenix I was running 240 constantly.

Also, what fans did you switch to?

SB

 

Yep, a great radiator, mine works great.

 

SilentBob

I am running the Spal dual fan setup. I think the Be Cool dual fans are the same thing. The fans sell for around 250-300. I know wicked expensive but they are a shrouded setup which makes them very effiecient at moving air through the radiator when you are not moving fast. At first I was running two 12 inch fans but that simply was not enough to keep the car cool in stop and start traffic. I would suggest you go with the better dual fans because you see some hot temps in AZ.

I know many people out there will not agree that the shrouded fans work better, but they do!

 

Good stuff, I will check them out.

What did you do for the heater return since the radiator lacks that provision?

SB

 

Right now I have a bolt clamped onto the end of the hose. I have not yet had the time to find a suitable shop to weld on the fitting. I would do it myself but I don't feel comfortable to weld aluminum on anything other than empty beer cans!!

Find a good hotrod shop or custom shop and they will be able to help you I'm sure. All the radiator shops in my area won't do it because its aluminum.

 

I am a master of missing the obvious answer. If anyone needs me, Ill be over here pushing on a door marked 'pull'.

SB

 

Run the heater return line to the top of the water pump. Just like the old days.

In any case, it should not be blocked off unless the t-stat is removed. That is the only way for coolant to circulate while the t-stat is closed.

 

Oh yeah, will do. Thanks.