Got my Be Cool in today I bought the custom fit one for a auto.
Just thought everyone would like to see it. Got it from Summit for a wallet drainging $549.69. btw does anybody else have this one? There are 4 pieces on it sticking out, 2 on top 2 on bottom not sure why? (Look at the pic and you will see what I mean) Maybe I'll find out when I go to put it in.

 

here is another view, oh I bought a new air dam from GM to go with it, It goes for about $30.

 

ok once again

 

looks nice, thats a lot of money though

looks like mounting areas for it!!

my stock replacement did not have them...

 

Looks "pimp"! Have you done the swap yet? Any difference in weight between the two? Temp? Just curious b/c when i get another $600 to throw around i would like to get a new radiator. Instead i got mine flushed and had the tanks replaced for $70, should do for now!

 

No I haven't done the swap yet but will be doing so this week. As for a weight difference I think there pretty equal or it may be a little lighter but not much. There both pretty light though. In the temp dept. it better help some if not then I'll be pissed and Be Cool will hear about it.

 

I hear that, and so does your wallet! J/K man, its a nice part to have. It should work out fine for you. When i need an upgrade, nothing but the best and that looks like it to me. good luck with the swap

 

I have Be Cools in two of my cars and will be putting one into my Camaro before next summer. I had a custom 4-core brass radiator made for it before last summer that dropped the temp only about 5 degrees. It only cost me about $225 but I'm going to yank it and slurg for the BeCool like I should have done in the first place. The tabs are standard mounting points for 3rd gen cars.

I promise you it will run at least 20* cooler than the stock unit. I have a BeCool in my '89 Chev 1/2 ton truck 300hp and the temp stays contant all year at 168-172* and the computer actually remains in closed loop at that temp. I was always told never to lower it below 180* or it will run in open loop. Its been this way for four years and runs great. (p.s.- I live in hot & sunny So. Cal)

 

ever finish this? how did it go?

 

Guess not...

 

Yes it's finished, The "bolt in" style wasnt a bolt in for me though had to do some modiying to get it to clear the blower pulley. Have not ran the car with it in yet, car has been down for quite some time now getting numorus parts added. Should be up and running soon.

 

Hi,

I ordered and installed the big Griffin radiator for my 87 Iroc

and made sure it came with the heater hose connection on it

and from looking at yours don't see one. Just curious

Later

jaykar

 

Yep it's there just above tranny line!

 

Hi,

OK,
Those tabs on yours sure would have been easier on mine
to fabricate mounts for support.

I had to get GM truck four core rubber saddles for the top
and the bottom because of the Griffins width. It all worked
out nice though and looks great especially after polishing
out the tanks.

Good Luck

Later
jaykar

 

I have a Be Cool radiator, I love it, it dropped right in!! But for cooling it didnt do anything to help me. im so , i cant figure out what is wrong!

 

Hi,

Air Dam- a must.
Fan or fans operating? Use lower turn on switch.
Thermostat? do go bad. Use lower opening stat.
Plugged grill denser for AC?
Lower hose collapsing under suction?
Other than running super lean and you would know that,
thats about it.

Or your spending to much time in Death Valley at full speed
in the summertime.

Later
jaykar

 

Sorry about the delayed reaction, but it has a good air dam, but it runs hot when sitting, the new perma-cool fan does work and is grounded so it stays on all the time, i have went from a 180 degree to a 160 thermostat to a water restrictor. Never thought about the lower hose collapsing, but it is brand new, actually all my cooling stuff is brand new, new Be Cool radiator, new overflow tank, new aluminum Stewart water pump, new fan, new hoses, yea new everything! It also has no AC so i took the AC condenser out, and it runs a little fat because the timing it totaling out at 34 degrees, because i fun a 150 shot of nitrous and i live in NC it is hot and humid but it is everywhere else too, but no death valley thanks Barry

 

for me it was a slight daily difference but the real difference was how fast it dropped when it opened up. almost scary to watch the guage move so quickly. if it's hooked up right check the other elements.

 

Yea something else is for sure going on but i just cant figure it out

 

Hi,

If it gets hot at idle probably would not be a collapsing

lower hose even if it was old and soft as not enough

suction to close it and usually only happens when the RPM

comes up. I DONNO

I'm getting close to firing up mine for the first time and like

I said, running the big Griffin-180 switch-Gm 170 stat- chip

programmed for 180- No AC, but two big B&M coolers,trans

and engine in front and positive it will run between 170 and 180.

Any chance maybe part of a rag or something accidentally left
in one of the inlets or outlets???
Good Luck
jaykar

 

Nah no rags or anything, but thanks for your help anyways, hope you have better luck than me

 

Okay,

One more thing and maybe crazy, but see that you just

bought new SW pump. You must be running the full

serpentine belt as your year car, unless you changed it.

Do you have the correct rotation Pump for the belt setup

you have.
Clockwise-V Belt?
Counter- Full serpentine?

Just a thought
Good Luck

later
jaykar

 

I do have a serpentine belt, never thought of it being on wrong here you tell me, i think it is in the right direction, and the water pump was for a newer style serpentine belt system, but the block is a 1972, but anyways here is a pic of it,

 

Hi,

Although mine is a 87Iroc I changed over to the full serpentine

setup from the V- WP setup to, I believe an 89 car.

I have the exact same setup that you have including the AC

delete bracket and idler. You need a counter clockwise WP for

yours. I would either get the SW part # and check, or pull the

pump and see. It also could have been boxed wrong Stranger

things have happened, believe me, I know

I've run out of suggestions other than:
Are you sure you have water in it

Later
jaykar

 

Damn it!! I forgot to check to see if it had water in it...J/k...Yea i have water in it LOL. But here is the exact water pump i orderedStewart Pump

 

Hi,

According to the SW specs, thats the rite pump.

Can you read the part # on the pump to check??

I know few years back when had a 355 in there and had

converted over to the full serp with AC delete, had to change ALT

PS pump I believe, had ordered the Edelbrock WP and they sent

me the wrong rotation pump. I pulled the back cover off just to

be sure even though the part # said it was the wrong one

My fault on that one
If all else fails you might pull the cover off and check to be sure
they put the rite vanes in it

Later
jaykar

 

I will check tomarrow, thanks for your help

 

When you say you had to mod it to clear the blower pulley. What did you do. I have a 12 rib Procharger and I have no clearence with the stock rad. It needs to be replaced, but I'd like to know if there's a better way to clear the pulley.

 

Well I have just a 6 rib on my vortech, I also didnt have much room with the stock one in. I had to cut the rad. support so that I could slide the rad. forward in the car. I took out my a/c so that was much easier.

 

I see. I'm thinking about ordering the 9 rib and using it instead of the 12 I currently have. I'm still hopeful that I'll be able to keep my a/c, but maybe not.

 

Not to bring this old post back from the dead, but what did any of you guys (Be-cool rad guys) do or notice about your oil coolers? Most hi-po factory 350 (305??) came with factory oil coolers. Be-cool doesn't offer one. Obviously you put an aftermarket cooler in to compensate. Did it work as good/better than stock in-rad cooler?
Also, I'm runninr a B&M tranny cooler after/with my stock rad trans cooler. Could this same set-up be used with the Be-cool rad (B&M cooler with/after Be-cool in-tank trans cooler) or would it make trans fluid temps too low?????

Sorry for length of both questions, and thanks for the answers.

 

The factory oil cooler is sandwiched between the block and oil filter, not in the radiator.

 

Hey thanks, I was told different. Thanks for clearing that up for me. That makes things easier, I can still use the stock oil cooler then.
That's 1 question taken care of. Anyone for the tranny cooler question??

 

that is just an oil cooler adapter plate, the oil cooler itself is in the left side of stock rad. I prefer after market oil and tranny coolers. i'm buying 2 perma-cool coolers w/ electric fans to make sure everything stays cool.

 

No.. motor oil doesnt run thru the radiator/cooler just tranny fluid. The factory oil cooler is just like lo-tec said. Its just a spacer that water flows through to keep the oil cool. Its mounted between the filter and block thats as far as the oil goes. The lines have water flowing thru them not oil.