No thermostat bad?
Hold the fone now you are changing my story. I never said a car will run hot if you drill holes through it read my post i actually incourage this for safety reasons. Second I did take the thermostat out of my dads 93 525i and guess what in traffic it would overheat. Third i had a manual fan switch on my formula never said those were bad either. And forth i dont care what calculations you do and how much you konw about thermodynamics if you are ne sort of engineer you know that calculations dont matter till you prototype something and see if it actualy works. Dont make me look up a lot of calculations that were thought to be done right and then failed in the prototype stage. Dam man what is your problem. Im gonna stop replying to this topic once people stop changing my story. And this site is not going down the toilet because of ppl like me but rahter like you. Unless your filling your coolant jackets with concrete cause you wanna bore the **** out of it for a race car only then dont run a stat. But its already prooven that a car that runs too cold will not make as much horsepower as an engine running at the right temp. Also i question everything i read and do and do it a couple times to proove it to myself. Ps i dont know nething i just put ls1's in s10's by pure luck and Diagnose Mercedes benz vehicles and engine by chance
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 2
From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
Question... what exactly are we looking at in these pictures? Is that your son or little brother? and what would these pictures be trying to prove? just curious.
There are instances were overheating can occur due to the waterpump spinning too fast. This is due to bad waterpump design, not due to the speed of coolant through the radiator. You see most waterpumps will cavitate at 8000 RPM and up, then they do not work properly. Another big reason that racers underdrive their waterpumps severely is so that they do not throw the belt.
There are instances when removing the t-stat will cause the engine to overheat too. This is because (and read carefully), the bonehead that yanked out the thermostat FORGOT to block off the bypass passage. With the bypass left exposed wide open, a good 30% of your coolant will circulate back through the engine and miss the radiator totally. This will indeed cause you to run hotter. The answer is to simply do the tstat removal right and block the bypass.
Barring the above two conditions removing a tstat or speeding up a waterpump will NOT cause your engine to run hotter.
There's an old saying...
Those who can, do.
Those who can't, teach.
Don't believe everything you read or hear from a teacher. Please go do your own testing. Do it right, and then you'll change your story on this subject.
There are instances were overheating can occur due to the waterpump spinning too fast. This is due to bad waterpump design, not due to the speed of coolant through the radiator. You see most waterpumps will cavitate at 8000 RPM and up, then they do not work properly. Another big reason that racers underdrive their waterpumps severely is so that they do not throw the belt.
There are instances when removing the t-stat will cause the engine to overheat too. This is because (and read carefully), the bonehead that yanked out the thermostat FORGOT to block off the bypass passage. With the bypass left exposed wide open, a good 30% of your coolant will circulate back through the engine and miss the radiator totally. This will indeed cause you to run hotter. The answer is to simply do the tstat removal right and block the bypass.
Barring the above two conditions removing a tstat or speeding up a waterpump will NOT cause your engine to run hotter.
There's an old saying...
Those who can, do.
Those who can't, teach.
Don't believe everything you read or hear from a teacher. Please go do your own testing. Do it right, and then you'll change your story on this subject.
Originally posted by 89 4Mula 350 Tbi
Hold the fone now you are changing my story. I never said a car will run hot if you drill holes through it read my post i actually incourage this for safety reasons. Second I did take the thermostat out of my dads 93 525i and guess what in traffic it would overheat. Third i had a manual fan switch on my formula never said those were bad either. And forth i dont care what calculations you do and how much you konw about thermodynamics if you are ne sort of engineer you know that calculations dont matter till you prototype something and see if it actualy works. Dont make me look up a lot of calculations that were thought to be done right and then failed in the prototype stage. Dam man what is your problem. Im gonna stop replying to this topic once people stop changing my story. And this site is not going down the toilet because of ppl like me but rahter like you. Unless your filling your coolant jackets with concrete cause you wanna bore the **** out of it for a race car only then dont run a stat. But its already prooven that a car that runs too cold will not make as much horsepower as an engine running at the right temp. Also i question everything i read and do and do it a couple times to proove it to myself. Ps i dont know nething i just put ls1's in s10's by pure luck and Diagnose Mercedes benz vehicles and engine by chance
Hold the fone now you are changing my story. I never said a car will run hot if you drill holes through it read my post i actually incourage this for safety reasons. Second I did take the thermostat out of my dads 93 525i and guess what in traffic it would overheat. Third i had a manual fan switch on my formula never said those were bad either. And forth i dont care what calculations you do and how much you konw about thermodynamics if you are ne sort of engineer you know that calculations dont matter till you prototype something and see if it actualy works. Dont make me look up a lot of calculations that were thought to be done right and then failed in the prototype stage. Dam man what is your problem. Im gonna stop replying to this topic once people stop changing my story. And this site is not going down the toilet because of ppl like me but rahter like you. Unless your filling your coolant jackets with concrete cause you wanna bore the **** out of it for a race car only then dont run a stat. But its already prooven that a car that runs too cold will not make as much horsepower as an engine running at the right temp. Also i question everything i read and do and do it a couple times to proove it to myself. Ps i dont know nething i just put ls1's in s10's by pure luck and Diagnose Mercedes benz vehicles and engine by chance
"I don't know nething" .. Well thats the first fact I've heard come out of your mouth.
The reason my LS1 runs cold without a thermostat is exactly as 305sbc said. When your thermostat is closed the pump will circulate water through the block via the bypass. If you remove the tstat it also opens the bypass and that 1/3 of your coolant or so will never leave the engine to get cooled in the radiator. So I plugged it and guess what. 140 on the hwy, never more than 180 in traffic. Dayum, I'm overheating..
So here's what I recommend. First I would call that school you went to and get your money back. Second ask your dad if you can borrow the car and call a GIRL and go out, you spend way too much time reading books by well known authors of automotive technology. Third call everybody who let you touch their LS1 or Mercedes and apologize right now.
"thick headed idiots" well, I for one am hurt... no, really. It allways pains me when 12 year olds call me names. Yes sorry to waste you time ladies and gents, I'm the idiot, so how long has your Formula had TBI?
Last edited by breathment; May 3, 2003 at 11:44 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 3
From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
This turned out to be a long winded post. Every car I've had to pull the thermostat from and run without(for what ever reason) would not warm up. Including my Camaro years ago with the thermo stuck.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 17
From: Southern California
Car: 1987 Camaro LT
Engine: LG4 w/ SLP headers & a 3" catback
Transmission: THM700R4 (Stock)
Axle/Gears: Stock 2.73 gears. No Posi
Re: No thermostat bad?
You gotta have that thermostat. My car ran like crap without.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 972
Likes: 2
From: La Grange Park, IL
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28/ 1982 Z28
Engine: 355 TPI IP/ 305 CFI
Transmission: T-56/ 300C
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open/ 3.73 Posi
Re: No thermostat bad?
It all depends on conditions here people, you two both know this, a car that runs without a thermostat in Texas and overheats may not over heat if run in Washington. this theory is all dependent on the direction and sequence of coolant flow, as well as the amount of passes the radiator takes as well as loads and air flow through the radiator and the type of metal used for the engine. Now I AM a tech, and I have seen some messed up S.H.I.T done to peoples cars, and no thermostat has been seen more than once, BOTH were different results, one set a check engine light with a p0 code for engine coolant under thermostat regulating temperature. The other was towed in because it was hot out and would not stop over heating. I have seen BOTH, so let this end this stupid fight lol.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 15
From: Houston, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: No thermostat bad?
I don't think it's that the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough. I think it's that the engine doesn't heat soak the coolant enough. I remember driving my Sunbird in the fall in Canada. Now keep in my mind my Sunbird would only turn the cooling fan on 4-5 times a year during the summer (on at 225°, off at 215°). During the fall, winter, spring, the cooling fan would never turn on because the engine simply ran cool enough as is. That was with a 195° thermostat. I also didn't have the front air dam on the car. Drove it like that for a decade.
Now when I did take the thermostat out one time in the fall (ambient temp being around 45°F), the coolant gauge in the car went sky high. The radiator was a moot point as it
a) never got much airflow due to no air dam
b) never got hot enough to warrant the cooling fan coming on.
So as I see it, it had to be the engine itself. There are a lot of small spaces in the engine that need to have coolant saturating it. When it's simply a gushing flow of coolant going through there (no stat), you're going to get hot spots which never cool and thus the whole thing starts overheating.
Now when I did take the thermostat out one time in the fall (ambient temp being around 45°F), the coolant gauge in the car went sky high. The radiator was a moot point as it
a) never got much airflow due to no air dam
b) never got hot enough to warrant the cooling fan coming on.
So as I see it, it had to be the engine itself. There are a lot of small spaces in the engine that need to have coolant saturating it. When it's simply a gushing flow of coolant going through there (no stat), you're going to get hot spots which never cool and thus the whole thing starts overheating.
Re: No thermostat bad?
I bought my car and it got real hot quick so when I checked the thermometer there was none so I put a 180 in and it's been fine since so I don't know maybe it depends on traffic (mine is a dd) and weather (South Florida)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






