My car tends to get warm on the highway after a while, but in the city its fine. Using the stock gauge, and it reads anywhere from 200-230 @ 60-65 mph. I have a th350 w/ 4.11 gears, and a different motor (same size) carb'd with heads/cam. In the city, it will never get over 160-180. I don't have a thermostat in right now, which made it take longer to warm up, but still gets hot. I was told a 160 thermo would cure all my problems. There are no a/c components, or a heater core on my car anymore. It is pretty much for the track, but every now and then I do have to drive it around, and driving to the track (15 miles away) and in this heat, it does get pretty warm. I have upgraded to a 4 core radiator, and I have 1 huge fan on there now. I took some of the plastic molding pieces that cover the front of the radiator up for more air flow, but doesnt seem to be helping. Any help is appreciated.

 

and if anyone needs to know anymore info about my setup, let me know. I'd like to get this overheating problem fixed.

 

i think it would be a good idea to run a thermostat.

do you have your main air dam intact? thats the rubber thing hanging down further than the nose right under the radiator, that might be something to look into.

 

The picture of your car looks like there is no air dam. That will definitely cause it to overheat on the freeway.

 

the air damn came loose one day a few years ago and it was removed. the foglights have been removed and air goes through there, and up where the old tpi used to be, but all of that plastic stuff is now gone. even with the air damn, it still got hot.

 

Well, you still need it there. It will make a big difference. Have you replaced the water pump and radiator? What is your timing set at? Also, are you losing any coolant? A leaky head gasket could cause this.

 

I forgot that you upgraded to a 4 core.

At one time my car would heat up when I got on it. Turned out to be the timing advance. The springs were too loose and would advance too much at high RPM's but didn't spark knock.

 

The air dam will make a HUGE difference in cooling when crusing at a sustained higher speed, like the Interstate.

Also...if I read your post correctly, you now have a Turbo 350 ( no Overdrive ) so you're turning alot more RPM's when cruising than you would with a 700 w/ the overdrive, this can cause an engine to run a bit warmer as well.

Also, get a thermostat in it!!! It's an OLD wive's tale ( read BS ) that removing the thermostat makes it run cooler. It actually makes it run HOTTER!!! The coolant is flowing from the engine thru the radiator unchecked, and without the thermostat, the coolant never stays in the radiator long enough for it to do it's job and cool down the temps.


And last, but not least, get a GOOD temp gauge. The factory gauges are not accurate at all. I just installed Autometer 2 5/8" mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges, and was not surprised to find out the factory gauges were way off.

My oil pressure, via the factory gauge, used to drop to less than 10lbs at a hot idle... ( @ 600 RPM in neutral w/ T5 ). After installing the mechanical gauge w/ copper line, it holds a steady 25-30 lbs at HOT Idle ( @ 200 degrees ) in neutral at the same idle RPM.

Also, the water temp is much more accurate now... the old gauge was off as much as 30 degrees.



HTH

 

yes I upgraded to a 4 core radiator, and yes I have a turbo 350 w/ a 3800 Vigilante 9" stall. If I do about 3000 on the highway (roughly 55-60 mph) it will show 180-200 on the factory gauge, but if I go to 3500, it will run around 220-230, and only when you slow down does it drop. A 160 thermostat is going to go in asap and yes I know I need to get some aftermarket gauges. I'm thinking about the gauge pods right below the t-top..... Gauge Pods I think they are called? I was thinking a oil pressure, and water is all I need. The gas gauge, and battery work fine, but my factory tach and speedo don't work anymore. ctandc-- wow 30 degrees off from the factory to an aftermarket one? That makes me feel a little better knowing that. The oil pressure drops to about 25-30 at idle, but on the highway-full throttle it is at 60+.