Best Waterpump?
Best Waterpump?
Hello everyone. I've gone through about 3 water pumps in the last 4 years and I've had it! I need to know what is the best waterpump out there? My Z28 seems to be a hot runner so I need something to keep it cool and last more than 4 years. I was looking at the Edlebrock aluminum waterpumps. Any other suggestions? Thanks for your time!
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,828
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From: San Jose, CA
Car: 2002 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I have heard that Stewart Water Pumps are top notch and wont cost near as much as Edelbrock or Weiand pumps.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...rtNumber=13123
I have their Stage 1 pump but it is not installed yet
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...rtNumber=13123
I have their Stage 1 pump but it is not installed yet
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
I've used the Edelbrock W\P for many years. Never had a problem. Very good cooling. I Autocross and Hillclimb my car. Occassional track days as well. Engine is well north of 450hp.
Several of my competitors use the Edelbrock pump as well. We've all been pleased. Run a minimum of a 16lb rad cap....20 if your Rad and heater core are in good shape.
Follow all the cooling suggestions here, especially regarding Fan sensors, and you should be able to cool that puppy down.
Several of my competitors use the Edelbrock pump as well. We've all been pleased. Run a minimum of a 16lb rad cap....20 if your Rad and heater core are in good shape.
Follow all the cooling suggestions here, especially regarding Fan sensors, and you should be able to cool that puppy down.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
Had to run away quickly...buddies Stag. NICE STRIPPER!!!!!
Make sure airdam for rad is in place, 180deg Stat ( 170 minimum in really stinkin hot climates, Do the fan relay mods as noted, Good clean rad, Good hoses, Spring in lower hose, AC condensor fins clean, factory side duct panels in place ( Often misplaced by B\Shops after front end damage ), 50\50mix Coolant with Water wetter, Engine timing correct ( Often overlooked. Retarded Timing can cause overheating. A little more initial advance than stock will often reduce temps. ), no exhaust restrictions such as blocked Catalytic Convertors ....that should cover it.
Oh Yeah one more thing. For carburated cars, make up an Aluminium plate to close off the top of the rad area , from the Rad header to the front of the nose. Cut an opening just large enough to allow the hood latch to go through. I've seen temps decrease by 10 to 15 deg with just this simple addition. Depending on your fabricating skills, can be made to work with a TPI intake as well.
Make sure airdam for rad is in place, 180deg Stat ( 170 minimum in really stinkin hot climates, Do the fan relay mods as noted, Good clean rad, Good hoses, Spring in lower hose, AC condensor fins clean, factory side duct panels in place ( Often misplaced by B\Shops after front end damage ), 50\50mix Coolant with Water wetter, Engine timing correct ( Often overlooked. Retarded Timing can cause overheating. A little more initial advance than stock will often reduce temps. ), no exhaust restrictions such as blocked Catalytic Convertors ....that should cover it.
Oh Yeah one more thing. For carburated cars, make up an Aluminium plate to close off the top of the rad area , from the Rad header to the front of the nose. Cut an opening just large enough to allow the hood latch to go through. I've seen temps decrease by 10 to 15 deg with just this simple addition. Depending on your fabricating skills, can be made to work with a TPI intake as well.
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