Bad head gasket, or do I need an airdam?
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Bad head gasket, or do I need an airdam?
I'm having some overheating issues. I've got an L98 Trans Am and I just got the motor in it a few months ago. I can drive for about 10-15 minutes until the coolant temp gets too high (240-260). I've got plenty of coolant, a new water pump and no leaks. I've got the stock thermostat in the car as well. Only thing I don't have is the air dam. I don't have to be on the highway for it to happen, just cruisin' around town 40-50 MPH. I'd like to know if it's because of the car not having an air dam or do I need to change some gaskets.
I will be getting my hands on the tester that checks for combustion gasses in the coolant, but just would like some input from you guys in the meantime. BTW, the fan does come on. It's the single fan from the L03, but that shouldn't make a difference.......should it? See my sig for mods.
I will be getting my hands on the tester that checks for combustion gasses in the coolant, but just would like some input from you guys in the meantime. BTW, the fan does come on. It's the single fan from the L03, but that shouldn't make a difference.......should it? See my sig for mods. Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Originally posted by 25THRSS
Get an air dam!!!!!!!!!
Get an air dam!!!!!!!!!
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Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Is there a special coolant fill procedure that requires bleeding of the coolant system? I know that the newer cars need to be bled, but I didn't know the older cars did. I though it was fill it and go.
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Coolant bleeding procedure:
Open rad cap, and let car run. Heater on.
The air dam is actually quite amazing. I haven't put mine back on yet bc it's in the process of restoration, but I drove the car a little bit and with both fans on it was warming up prtty good. Yet it could idle forever. You're putting a lot more stress on an engine by driving it, and you need that channeling of air to the radiator. It really does make a big difference.
The two main things you don't remove from a car:
- Fan shroud
- Air dam
Open rad cap, and let car run. Heater on.
The air dam is actually quite amazing. I haven't put mine back on yet bc it's in the process of restoration, but I drove the car a little bit and with both fans on it was warming up prtty good. Yet it could idle forever. You're putting a lot more stress on an engine by driving it, and you need that channeling of air to the radiator. It really does make a big difference.
The two main things you don't remove from a car:
- Fan shroud
- Air dam
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Well, I ruled out the airdam issue today. Haven't been able to find one yet, so I just took off the hood and drove it for a few minutes and it still heated up. I figure without a hood it will get plenty of air...right
. I let it get to about 240 and brought it home and parked it and let it idle. At idle, it cools down!! I don't get it. All signs point to airdam,but........
. I let it get to about 240 and brought it home and parked it and let it idle. At idle, it cools down!! I don't get it. All signs point to airdam,but........
Wrong. You still need an airdam. Without one the radiator will never get anough air to cool down the coolant passing through it. An airdamn is not hard to come by. Just get on off of ebay or the dealer. They aren't that expensive either.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,301
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I know I still need an airdam, but this just proves that there is still another problem causing the car to overheat, which I need to fix
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 735
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Key word here is Trans Am. You have no grill.
All of your cooling comes from underneath the car. At highway speed especially you get a velocity effect where the air just rushes under the car.
The air dam "scoops" up this air and forces it into the radiator.
There are 2 important components (there are variables on these depending on different models). A big wide strip that looks like lawn edging from Home Depot.
And a molded plastic piece that looks like a shroud that directs the air into the radiator. THIS is the important piece. You can keep a car cool without that lawn edging but it's still recommended.
Both are called "air deflectors". The strip is not as important.
Lack of the air dam is not something to mess with. You might as well be running without water.
All of your cooling comes from underneath the car. At highway speed especially you get a velocity effect where the air just rushes under the car.
The air dam "scoops" up this air and forces it into the radiator.
There are 2 important components (there are variables on these depending on different models). A big wide strip that looks like lawn edging from Home Depot.
And a molded plastic piece that looks like a shroud that directs the air into the radiator. THIS is the important piece. You can keep a car cool without that lawn edging but it's still recommended.
Both are called "air deflectors". The strip is not as important.
Lack of the air dam is not something to mess with. You might as well be running without water.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I got both pieces new from a buddy that works for ACDelco. I put them on Monday night and I've been driving it ever since with no problems. Thanx guys.
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