Replaced thermostat in my '92 Z28 yesterday, which resolved the heat and temp guage issues, but car still stalls once engine gets warmed up (usually takes about half an hour of driving). When trying to re-start car, very difficult to do, and it floods, unless i let it cool for another day and it starts fine. Thought the t-stat would take care of this issue, but apparently not. I'm not sure what to check now, or how to check anything else, and don't have tons of disposable income to always be running it to a mechanic. I also have no diagnostic equipment (like a code scanner or laptop computer to hook that up to). Any suggestions? Could the fuel filter possibly cause this? Thanks.

 

the t-stat i dont think has anything to do with the stalling/starting.

also i doubt the fuel filter but thats good to change every so often.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...i+hot+starting

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...i+hot+starting

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...i+hot+starting

 

well, hhhmm......was hoping to find what the problem is, not was wouldn't be causing the problem. Anyway, it seems that some component of engine is getting warm, causing the engine to shut off......SOMEthing must be getting hot, and now I know it isn't the thermostat, since I replaced that already. Surely SOMEbody has had a similar problem at some point. I just don't want to waste $100.00 just to have some mechanic run a diagnostic on it to find it's a darn $10.00 part that I can replace myself.

 

First, are you getting any SES codes. It's in the tech article section here on the site it tells how to read codes with a paper clip in the ALDL connector. Do you have spark? When it's bad, try a little starting fluid, if it fires up it's a fuel delivery problem. You say it floods, I take it you smell fuel? Does it only stall at low RPM, say coming to a light. If it runs good over say 35 MPH you may have an EGR issue. When it won't restart, loosen the gas cap and try releiving some pressure, wait 5 min then try restarting. A stuck open injector would allow excessive fuel but most likely would not cause what you describe. With a 195 stat you should come off cold program and go into closed loop within about 10 min or so. I am leaning towards something electronic heating up, try tapping on the ECM housing after it comes off fast idle, see if it stumbles. Since you think it is flooding that means the injectors are firing, if I had to make a guess I would suspect a thermally intermittent ignition module but guessing when you are dealing with expensive parts does get costly. It may well be worth you while depending on your skill level to at least get it diagnosed by a professional. You may not want him to fix it, many guys will charge $50 bucks or so to at least let you know whats up. It may be cheaper in the long run. LOL, Dan