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How did you do it, heater core?

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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 12:31 AM
  #1  
Dynodan's Avatar
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From: milwaukee Wi
Car: 1992 firebird
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700r4
How did you do it, heater core?

I am replacing my heater core on a 1992 bird, I followed a couple posts and removed my passenger seat for extra room to work on it. I am following the chilton book , it shows to pull off the shroud covering the core. I was able to to get out 3 of the 4 screws.


How do you get that damn fourth one upper left side? I tried to reach in with a 6" extension but there is so much wiring in the way. Chilton doesn't call for the removal of the dash or anything do I need to remove the dash to get to that last screw? Or is that screw just a pita to do. Maybe I should borrow my kid's hand ,and have him stick it up that narrow area .




Dynodan
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 12:52 AM
  #2  
Petes 84Z28's Avatar
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
This might help a bit...
www.hioutput.com/tech/heatercore.html
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Old Mar 27, 2004 | 06:18 AM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
I don't know if this pic will be helpful or not. I do know, however, that in my particular case, the upper bolt wasn't really a problem. Without removing anything other than the lower panel, I was able to access all that I needed.

JamesC
Attached Thumbnails How did you do it, heater core?-heat.jpg  

Last edited by JamesC; Sep 17, 2004 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #4  
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
my heater core leaked out, I bypassed it and so now its just in the dash not connected to anything. Can I remove it, and still drive around? will it effect anything to not have it inside my dash?
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 12:40 AM
  #5  
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From: Maryland; USA
no i dont think it will hurt anything, but i would cover up the two holes left when its gone in the firewall to keep things out of ur dash area.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 12:44 AM
  #6  
semiller26's Avatar
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From: Northern NV
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27
mine was a pita to get to I finally gave up and removed the eitire dash once that thing was out of the was it was alot easier to work on. Course putting it back in was a learning experience
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 01:41 AM
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..

Last edited by 82RECAROTA; Feb 6, 2006 at 04:51 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 01:43 AM
  #8  
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
where is that guide? is it for camaro or bird. can you take that piece off on a camaro?
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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From: you aint stealing my car..
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Auto w/ shift kit
that top screw is a pain in the *** my little tip is once u get it out dont put it back lol i used a rachet with a flex neck on it and it took like 20 mins to finally getting it after taking dash pad off and all to find it it took awile to find i ended up lookin inside the box while on the car to find it.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #10  
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yeah I had a similar problem with mine on that top screw. I finally gave up after about a 1/2 hour of trying and ripped the cover off breaking it around that screw hole (and I don't regret doing it). Course all I had was regular rachet and socket sets nothing fancy.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #11  
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
ya ive been telling myself that when i get to it i wanna just bust off around that screw hole instead of the whole dash tear down. does that make a bass rattle? we all know you havef a wicked system :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 06:09 AM
  #12  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Check the link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=210395

JamesC
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #13  
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From: Avondale, AZ
Car: currently thirdgenless!!!
I got to the top screw by pulling the dash out about 2 inches. Removing the dash pad and the passenger speaker. That gave me just enough room to get to the top screw with a 1/4 drive ratchet, an extension and an flex socket. Still was a pain though. But it worked.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 09:43 AM
  #14  
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From: Salina, KS
On the birds its a piece of cake, you just remove the hush panel and the trim piece with the performance suspension badge, and GM left a nice access hole thru the dash. Some long extensions and its a breeze.

But in all fairness the one that I replaced had been done incorrectly before so I got to remove about 90% of the dash so I could replace half the heater box.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:04 AM
  #15  
Matthew91-Z28's Avatar
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
How do you bypass the heater box? o you do it at the heater control valve?
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 08:49 PM
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
you take the 2 hoses that goto the heater core in the firewall and put a fitting from them so they just go together instead of into the heater box... want pics? I did it but im thinkin its leaking because I checked my overflow tank and its EMPTY
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Old Oct 1, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #17  
Matthew91-Z28's Avatar
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Yes...pics would be cool. Thanks
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