what is this part?
I think it is called a diverter. A rubber hose slips over that extension, right? I've got one on my 1985 Camaro.
Are you replacing it? If you have a knowledgeable parts counter guy he should be able to confirm that it is a diverter if you take the photo with you.
Quick edit: if you go to a parts counter (and my recollection is that these are awfully expensive) refer to it as a diverter valve. Trickster may be correct, but I really have no idea.
Are you replacing it? If you have a knowledgeable parts counter guy he should be able to confirm that it is a diverter if you take the photo with you.
Quick edit: if you go to a parts counter (and my recollection is that these are awfully expensive) refer to it as a diverter valve. Trickster may be correct, but I really have no idea.
Last edited by Parrydise7; Aug 8, 2004 at 01:55 PM.
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Trickster, I have to disagree here, although you DID say "off hand."
That's the EFE thermal (or temperature) vacuum switch. When the engine temperature is below normal operation levels, it switches "on" and routes vacuum to the air manegment valve, more commonly known as the "heat riser valve." That valve is located on the right side manifold. That valve closes when vacuum is applied. So, when the engine is warming up, that valve will be closed. That routes the right side exhaust gasses up through the intake and out the left side manifold. This warms up the intake quicker which increases fuel vaporization and decreases emissions. This is all part of the "Early Fuel Evaporation" system or "EFE" setup.
If you are needing to replace it, these will work (not that expensive, either)
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectPa...acuum%20Switch
i would use AC Delco 212-72. And, obviously, take yours and compare.
That's the EFE thermal (or temperature) vacuum switch. When the engine temperature is below normal operation levels, it switches "on" and routes vacuum to the air manegment valve, more commonly known as the "heat riser valve." That valve is located on the right side manifold. That valve closes when vacuum is applied. So, when the engine is warming up, that valve will be closed. That routes the right side exhaust gasses up through the intake and out the left side manifold. This warms up the intake quicker which increases fuel vaporization and decreases emissions. This is all part of the "Early Fuel Evaporation" system or "EFE" setup.
If you are needing to replace it, these will work (not that expensive, either)
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectPa...acuum%20Switch
i would use AC Delco 212-72. And, obviously, take yours and compare.
Last edited by Stekman; Aug 10, 2004 at 04:25 AM.
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From: Edmonton, AB
Car: '86 Z28
Engine: 305 LG4
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hmm thanks!
i was looking through jegs' online repair manual and found it about the same time you posted
if it's broken, that just means that the manifold would take longer to warm up, correct? can i drive safely with it plugged in, but no vacuum hoses hooked up?
i was looking through jegs' online repair manual and found it about the same time you posted

if it's broken, that just means that the manifold would take longer to warm up, correct? can i drive safely with it plugged in, but no vacuum hoses hooked up?
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yep. Which means it takes longer for the temperatures to reach the point where fuel vaporizes for better emissions and what not. I would plug the ports on the heat riser valve and the vacuum source at least.
You can drive safely without it, yes. Since a vacuum signal closes it, the default position is open.
You can drive safely without it, yes. Since a vacuum signal closes it, the default position is open.
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