CamarosRUS

i need a new rad to support my new engine. approx 500hp n/a over 600hp after n20. do i need a becool specifically or is there another "generic" alumnium radiator that will handle that much power?

will i need a specific sized radiator....like 2 row 1" tubes or bigger?

Stekman

C&R dual pass

I'm sure a be cool would suffice...not sure about the griffin....

CamarosRUS

lol i wish anyway i want to go with the jegs universal. its still a 2 row 1" tubes all alumnium and like $180. would that cool enough>???

Blackroc86

Here is one thread on the Griffin rads. If you do a search there are a few more.


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=Griffin

CamaroMike

Any 2 row 1" core is gonna be maxed at 450HP without fans but with fans they can go to 1000HP. It just depends on what fan setup you use.

You wanna hear about a good deal? Check out Northern Radiator. www.northernfactory.com

These are all alluminum 2 row 1" tube direct fit for Auto Tranny radiators that will easily support 400 + HP with a good fan setup. The best part is you can get these locally and they only run $325! That beats the hell out of BECOOL, cause your gonna be hot when you hear the price of their radiators.

CamarosRUS

ok so pretty much any all alumnium radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes will cool 450 without fans??? im running my stock twin electric fan setup until i find out i need better (but i think ill be okay with the radiator and stewart stage 2 WP) ive seen some good deals, jegs had one for less than 200 and griffin too but they arent the "Direct fits." o well to save all that money ill make it fit! i missed a brand new becool direct fit on ebay for $300 not too long ago and still kick myself...

CamaroMike

The fin designs of certain radiators are different. BeCool uses louvered fins and they are 14 per inch. Northern has 20 fins per inch and factory is usually 31 fins per inch. Lower fin count allows more air flow. So this may affect cooling somewhat but I think a 2 row 1" rad with Factory Twin fans (maybe) or Spahl fans will do the job.

89Warbird

I put in a BeCool with the stock twin fans and still overheated, albeit very slowly and only when sitting still or in stop and go traffic. I put in the BeCool twin fans and now have no problems at all.

JPrevost

Are you going to be making 500hp all the time on a dyno or just drive it around town with the occasional traffic in the summer with a/c? Also what kind of water pump will you be using?
Heat energy is directly proportional to the fuel you burn and friction (although the oil does most of the friction). The other 2 things that make a heat exchanger work is the flow rates. Lots of water and not a lot of air does the same as not a lot of water flow and a lot of air flow. I could bore you with the equations but just give me a worst case senario.

CamarosRUS

well ill be around town and using my a/c hopefully and i will be using a stewart stage II waterpump.

ive got a connection to get a all alumnium 2 row 1" tubes rad thats supposed to be a direct fit to the 82-92 camaros and firebirds for like $250. so it shouldnt require much modification like the universal griffins etc. i dont know what brand it is but its much cheaper than the be cool direct replacement. now i havent seen it yet so well see if it has the brackets etc or whatever it needs to fit correctly and if it has the heater hose connection.

ill let everyone know how it goes

f-crazy

iTrader: (-1)

my motor is making 425HP and im still using the stock radiator...im actually running into problems with it being to cool while cruising...if i let it idle for 15-20 minutes it will hit 260 if i dont turn the fans on...as soon as i do within 30 seconds its back down to 195...and while driving around i dont need them...

IHI

iTrader: (1)

My motor is a little shy of 600hp N/A. I just bought a 31x19 Howie 2 row 1" tube radiator-price of the 1 1/4" tubes scared me

With my set-up I have a heck of a time building any heat at all. My advise would be to run the dual electric fans(which I have that are tied into the electric water pump so they're all on when the switch it hit)...but wire the fans so you can manually control them.

This will be my winter time project, during the summer if I can hit 150* on a 90* day sitting in traffic I'm doing very good I drove it around on a couple of 50degree days a few weeks ago and literally could not get it off the 100* mark unless I shut off the pump/fans for about 5 minutes then turned them back on-then 2 minutes later the gauge was laying back on 100*

With my universal 31x19 I had to do some modification to get it to fit between the frame rails up front (aka BFH and a little heat), plus I cut out the lower radiator support and dropped that abot 3" so now the radiator sits under the front shelf where the hood latches-gained me alot of motor to radiator clearance up front.

CamarosRUS

lol i dont really have a problem overheating now but everything is stock. it gets up to 220 and beyond quite frequently on hot days and id like to keep the temp at 200 if possible. i just hope this direct replacement is just that, a direct replecement

CaptPicardsZ28

I went with Griffin...
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=griffin

What did you go with and is it installed?

CamarosRUS

the radiator i have is a heatex brand rad. ive never heard of it before but it is supposed to fit 82-92 camaros/firebirds. now i dont trust anyone....anyone i know in this world noone knows what they are talking about but it was supposed to have 2 rows of 1 inch tubes. its defenitly bigger than stock ive got some pics in this thread URL=https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=267243]here[/URL] its not in yet i have absolutly no time but i am expecting some modifications required like the griffin. if so and it cools just fine with the new engine i wont be too upset but i will have paid $260 instead of $180 for the girffin. if it doesnt cool fine im gonna be extremly mad

Buck89RS

I would get a 4 row. My father in law has a 2nd gen and is making 450hp at the rear wheels. It is a clutch fan and he can let it set in the hot sun and idle for hours and the temp gauge only goes between 185 and 190. My 2 cents

-Buck

IHI

iTrader: (1)

By the time you get a copper 4 row you just added twice the weight of the aluminum with less heat disappaction.

Stekman

Hey IHI, do you have pics of how your radiator is sitting and how the tray is lowered? My radiator isn't playing nice.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Just crude far away shots, nothing up close and personal. Give ya a few that I have.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

2

IHI

iTrader: (1)

side shot. never taken pictures for "tech like" help. the front subframe rails needed a lil coaxing with the heat and hammer-finished it off with the air hammer to smooth it all out so it's hard to tell if you look at it now.

I just cut out the bottom try and made some spacers that drop it down the 3" I think it was and welded them to the original tray frame work then reienforced it with brackets that bolt to the lower bracket and to the old front sway arm mounts on the car "frame" Getting the lower hose to fit was a pita-couold not find the exact hose I needed so had to get the universal hoses, then installed a huge factory wireloom peice over the lower rad hose where it rubbed against the idler arm. So far no indication of chaffing on the loom peice.