Will This be enough cooling
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
Will This be enough cooling
4 core 31" rad with dual 14" fans pulling and possibly 2 pushing?
Would that be enough to cool down a 400hp+ 350 ok?
I have to do some custom fabing to where the rad will mount but itll fit ok once im done i would think, jsut like the stock rad but longer and thicker.
Would that be enough to cool down a 400hp+ 350 ok?
I have to do some custom fabing to where the rad will mount but itll fit ok once im done i would think, jsut like the stock rad but longer and thicker.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yes.
Don't overcool.
Oh, what makes you think you need 4 fans and 4 cores? I doubt you'd push a 3 core to the max. There's nothing exotic about a 400 hp 350 that deems a 4 core radiator with 4 fans.
Don't overcool.
Oh, what makes you think you need 4 fans and 4 cores? I doubt you'd push a 3 core to the max. There's nothing exotic about a 400 hp 350 that deems a 4 core radiator with 4 fans.
Last edited by Stekman; Nov 2, 2004 at 10:33 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Dual core radiators are PLENTY. In fact I'm actually suprised at how many "slow" circle track cars run these altra thick radiators. It doesn't cool any better and any results they see are from the added coolant capacity! Do yourself a favor, get a standard aluminum radiator from Summit Racing and a dual fan setup. That'll be plenty of cooling for a 500hp sbc. Keep in mind that I'm assuming you have an aftermarket mechanical waterpump like a stewarts or edelbrock.
Give me your worst case senario and I can help you pick the parts. Raced on a road course in hot weather? A/C in traffic on a hot summer day? Daily driven with electric water pump? Lay it on me.
Give me your worst case senario and I can help you pick the parts. Raced on a road course in hot weather? A/C in traffic on a hot summer day? Daily driven with electric water pump? Lay it on me.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
already have the Rad, got it for free after working on a guys truck and him deciding to not finnish and parted it out and i got the rad for free. i guess if 4 core will be enough i should just stick with a single 13" fan and i should be in good shape. This will be a Carbed 350 with out AC. Havent decided on what water pump i will get, but im also on a budget. I have a stewart catalog and thier products look awsome, but i dont know if i really need all the features that one of thier pumps offers to me.
I will have a 180 thermo, but i guess my cooling system will be suficent for a 400 if i decide to go that route in few years, or by that time it may be time for a new rad again
The 4 core that i have rdy to be installed is in brand new condtion with no build up inside what so ever, i dont supose i could over cool the motor seeing the thermostat that i will be using, and with a temp activated fan i should be pretty optimal witha good water pump to pretty much run A/C if i decide to convert over to it or add it to the newmotor, and still have the capacity to cool what 500+ HP?
I will have a 180 thermo, but i guess my cooling system will be suficent for a 400 if i decide to go that route in few years, or by that time it may be time for a new rad again
The 4 core that i have rdy to be installed is in brand new condtion with no build up inside what so ever, i dont supose i could over cool the motor seeing the thermostat that i will be using, and with a temp activated fan i should be pretty optimal witha good water pump to pretty much run A/C if i decide to convert over to it or add it to the newmotor, and still have the capacity to cool what 500+ HP?
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Thermostat has nothing to do with over cooling. Overcooling is the radiator dispensing heat faster than the engine makes it. Not that that's a bad thing....
What makes you think you're going to make 500+ hp?
What makes you think you're going to make 500+ hp?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
A large (deep) core radiator is going to need a rather large or at least powerful fan. The reason for this is that it's harder to create a pressure drop to flow air THROUGH the radiator. A dinky fan will just sit there straining it's heart out. If the fins are spaced out a lot then the resistance isn't as high so it SHOULD work.
A good aftermarket racing thermostat like the Robertshaw is what you want. The stock ones can hurt the coolant flowrate but that's only if you're on a road course spinning the snot out of the motor and have a mechanical water pump.
The best slow speed cooling systems are actually the thin radiators with high flow water pumps and high flow fans. A large radiator doesn't mean it'll cool any better. C&R even recommends the thin core racing radiators BECAUSE they're more efficient. The thicker the cores the higher the air flow going through it will need to be. The back side of a thick radiator will just sit there and heat soak from the air that's already super heated from passing over the first core. I know this is probably a lot of info and I'm not trying to discourage you into thinking it won't cool, just giving you stuff to read on the toilet. In other words, if you've got the radiator already and you want to use it, get a VERY strong fan or it won't work too good.
A good aftermarket racing thermostat like the Robertshaw is what you want. The stock ones can hurt the coolant flowrate but that's only if you're on a road course spinning the snot out of the motor and have a mechanical water pump.
The best slow speed cooling systems are actually the thin radiators with high flow water pumps and high flow fans. A large radiator doesn't mean it'll cool any better. C&R even recommends the thin core racing radiators BECAUSE they're more efficient. The thicker the cores the higher the air flow going through it will need to be. The back side of a thick radiator will just sit there and heat soak from the air that's already super heated from passing over the first core. I know this is probably a lot of info and I'm not trying to discourage you into thinking it won't cool, just giving you stuff to read on the toilet. In other words, if you've got the radiator already and you want to use it, get a VERY strong fan or it won't work too good.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: shawnee, ks
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
K pretty much what i needed to know, but sense i do have the rad im going to use it, and upgrade my single fan to a stronger one, and with a mechanical pump i should beable to cool my motor fine.
The set up going in it now wont make too much over 350hp at the flywheel, but upgrading and knowing my cooling system will be enough to handle it is what im after. It makes sense that i would need a stronger pulling fan to move enough air through the radiater to keep the back core cool.
The set up going in it now wont make too much over 350hp at the flywheel, but upgrading and knowing my cooling system will be enough to handle it is what im after. It makes sense that i would need a stronger pulling fan to move enough air through the radiater to keep the back core cool.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




