I just found out that my water pump is leaking out of the little hole at the bottom. It is not leaking much but enough to enoy me. I know this is a sign that the pump is going bad. What I am wanting to know is how long can I go without changing it before it really needs to get done. I am going to have to wait until probably this weekend before I can fix it and I will have about a 50 mile trip to get it to my parents house to fix it. I shouldn't have to drive it much until then but I dont want it breaking down on me while I am trying to get it to my parents house. If anyone can let me know I would greatly appreciate it.

 

carry some spare water/coolant. generally, that will not leak while in operation. it tends to leak when the car is shut down and still under pressure.

KAM

 

I just went and got a new water pump and when I got home I looked under the car and seen that there was a lot streaming down onto the ground. It didn't last long and there still seems to be a lot in the radiator. So you think that I should be fine to drive the 50 miles to my parents house, mostly highway miles, to get it fixed or should I try and get it done now and how long does it usually take to replace the water pump?

 

My first 1988 Deville had been diagnosed with leaky gaskets and other problems like brakes. The water pump among them. I'd spent $450 on the car and figured the brakes would need work first... I think of the main driveline, that waterpump gave up the ghost first. It leaked and then 'blew' out a bit where steam and coolent sprayed up, forward and down. The Stop Engine temp light also came on on the freeway. You REALLY don't want to wait that long, but keeping it loaded with water when I did drive and making short trips it kept working right until it's last day with me. It did require 10 to 30 minute cool downs when you noticed it running hot. Since this was an old engine and car, it's effect on other components wasn't a big concern as they were also worn
Bill

 

Well, I decided to go ahead and change it. Finally got it on and everything put back together but now I just have to wait until my girlfriend gets home so I can go and get some antifreeze. I thought I had a couple of gallons around the house somewhere but I didn't. I am just hoping that everything sealed up tight and I don't have to worry about this for a long time. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

 

Well, I put antifreeze in it and it leaked out from the bottom part of the passenger side of the water pump. Does everyone use the paper gaskets when putting these in or do you use the RTV sealant? I used the paper gaskets and it doesn't seem like it held at the bottom. I know I had everything tightened down but it still leaked immediately. If anyone can give me any suggestions I will be working on this again in the morning.

 

two suggestions: (1) use a very thin coat of rtv on both sides of the gasket, and (2) use thread sealer on the bolts. i have been lucky in my days by not doing the thread sealer, but i have always used rtv. not always necessary, but nowadays i do it as a precaution. i don't like doing things twice. the gasket will do it's job for the most part, but the rtv is added protection. thread sealer is definitely protection. i never had one leak there before, but just do it right. i'm sure you didn't leak much, but another suggestion is to not put antifreeze in until you know it leak checks good. when it's good, drain it and refill it then. water is alot easier to sacrifice than a gallon of anti-frz.

KAM

 

I got the water pump put in yesterday and I did get some rtv sealant and put it on both sides of the water pump gasket and also put thread sealant on the threads. Got it all filled up and everything seems to be working great. I also got my new windshield washer fluid bottle and a new overflow bottle since mine was leaking from the bottom. So far everything is working great. I was lucky enough that I could pull the water pump out through the top so I didn't have to jack the car up. Thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it. This site has helped me a lot when working with my car.

 

If you are working on a 1989 L98 TPI, I am dismayed by my own Chilton and Hayes manual details. I haven't done much of any work myself on these cars and I may also have a leak there, but after 6 or more months sitting, replacing my fuel pump and now the radiator yesterday, I find that my mechanic's prognosis of bad head/intake gaskets also appear an issue. I tested the new radiator for leaks with water. Initially refilling (all lines reattached) it leaked across the bottom but did fill to the top, and seems to have held there thus far. I needed antifreeze that evening as temps dropped to the teens overnight and this weekend headed down to 0 or below for the first time, I'm quite worried I have too much water in there still. I used premixed which is cheaper to be honest. The leak after the radiator appeared to be near the waterpump but upon a ten minute run, there was steam coming from the left (front side) cylindar valve cover lip on the manifold side. I got into a confusing discusion about intake versus head gaskets. I admit I was confused as to head gaskets going under valve covers and not below where exhaust manifold or headers mount, where my buddy stresses everything comes off the engine and will cost a hefty sum
BILL

 

bill, your entire cooling system will hold right at about 3 gallons, but hard to achieve unless you drain the entire system. that means the block, too. if you were able to get a full gallon of anti-frz in there, that will afford you quite a bit protection, but if you used that pre-mix, obviously you have diluted that protection. you'll be at about 80/20 vs. 70/30, or so. but that all depends on how much you had in there when you drained it to change your rad. there'd be no sense in draining the block unless you were doing a complete flush. so provided you already had some in there and added the pre-mix to it, i'd probably just test it to see how low of temp you're protected to...

KAM

 

I don't have a tester, but I should. I'd been running water in my Caddy due to a very bad waterpump, but temps were fall like. I haven't had time to attend to the car and temps have dropped pretty cold now, expected high of 35 will lead to 0 and colder Sat. night. I have some all antifreeze solution I will be adding next, but to address that question, I had more then the full mark of solution in my overfill bottle while I removed all hoses. Keep in mind my replaced radiator had very little solution left it wasn't leaking, at the very bottom!

I'll be checking it out again on Saturday afternoon and adding more gas (was almost empty with a new pump, my buddy was not thrilled at that prospect!) The hoses above the pass side valve cover are related to the car's heater system or is that part of the smog controls or both? I'll possibly need to replace that gasket as soon as I can afford it.
I'm pretty much tapped due to my debt and Christmas.

There's a trickle of overnight leaking evidence now, as I type , because the car has sat for over 12 hours, but the prior evening from 9 to 3AM I drove it to work and back a couple blocks away and it had started steaming again (valve cover corner up front) in the place of ten minutes. The temp guage has read just left of 220 center position, I think it may have creeped over once, but it has certainly been better then when my radiator was leaking everything!

 

the hoses that go over your pass side valve cover are for heater core and smog... the one that comes out of the firewall is for the heater core. hooks into a plastic diverter valve...

 

I'd appreciate scans of particulars on this. My Haynes/Chiltons cover too many and do so briefly.

The weather is no good at the moment but the car is running as long as I keep checking and refilling the fluid. The pump in my Deville was leaking so bad it was too costly to use antifreeze so I stuck with water during the nice summer weather. This along with high octane fuel could be costly as well, so I'll try to tackle the leak ASAP
Bill