I think mine might be broke. It's the thing behind the dryer. It has a black case around it bolted to the firewall. I had my car recharged yesterday and everything leaked out and I could hear it leaking from around that area. I think I might've kinked the tube leading to it and was wondering what that part is called and how much to replace it.

Thanks guys!!!

 

you mean the evaporator? it is inside the a/c box (near the heater core and blower motor)

 

Well they said it was the low pressure switch had a crack in it. So that is fixxed. Another $50 on top of the bill. The other problem is they got it charged, but it keeps canceling out. I got it back and it is cold, but it still shuts on and off. They said the switch is faulty or it could be something else. This is pissing me off. I had my heart set on a 3.42 posi, but I had to retract it. I am pissed.

They want to charge me $81 an hour to find the faulty part. This is seriously eating at my wallet.

What could be at fault? The actual switch board for the ac seems to be fine, so it can't be that. Are these wires buried in the engine bay?

 

BigwhiteGTP check out this link:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=298166

The first photo that was posted is the low pressure cycling switch. You have one of two problems it sounds, either you have a faulty/misadjusted switch OR your system is low on R134a/R12 whatever you have. Quickest way to check is to pull off the rubber plug and expose the spade terminals (see photo) and turn on your car with the a/c on the ON position (normal). Now take a length of wire with ends exposed and grab that rubber connection boot and look in there, you should see the female ends inside and short them to one another. Your A/C should come on and stay on as long as you have it shorted, (not too long just long enough to verify that it runs). Do a search on the web and learn how to adjust the low pressure cycling switch, if you look at the switch, in between the two spade terminals is a flathead screw. Get a screwdriver and try to adjust that screw and reconnect the rubber boot connector and see if that does the trick. It will control how fast the compressor cycles. Now if the A/C system is low on refrigerant, its going to cycle very quickly no matter what you do to the switch. The first thing i would do is buy a cheapie one from an autoparts store, and replace it if that has not been done already. GOOD LUCK

 

Thanks for the link, but I think I found what the problem is. One of the electic connections to the compressor is bad. I pressed on them to see if they were loose and the AC works. So as soon as I can, I will find out which one, I'm thinking the one facing the firewall on the compressor is the one that is bad.