2 compressors have gone bad on me, maybe I'm stupid for buying 2 used compressors and praying that they will hold R134 when they were built for R12. Is that even an issue or is it just I have bad luck with these fricken' Firebirds. AAAaaRRRRRRRRrrrGGGgggHHHHHH!!

Would a newer Fbody compressor which came from the factory work better? I mean the compressors worked fine in the cars they came from, but do they dry-rot by sitting on a shelf? Because this compressor was sitting on a shelf for a bit (2 1/2 months to precise) is that too long, could that have ruined it?

Do compressors need to stay on the car and be full, or else they go bad from "dry-rotting"?

I live in PhX, AZ (not my choice ) and it is 114* here, the car is black, and I have no AC. I need AC or a car with AC.

 

Sorry, GM put out a service bulletin about the conversion from R-12 to R134A in the '90s, its ok provided understanding. Do a search on GM Service Bulletins, its been awhile for me. Next, when a Compressor fails, chances are taken if not flushed at least part of the system. Most of us are not equipped with the necessary tools to accomplish. Good Luck!

 

You can't just swap the old one out and a new one it when dealing with AC compressors. Compressors fail for a reason. If you don't determine the reason and fix it, the replacement compressor will likely die the same death as it's predecessor.
The system needs to be flushed, thoroughly. The orifice tube and accumulator need to be replaced. With a catastrophic compressor failure, it's usually a good idea to replace the condenser and install a liquid line filter as well. If you don't install the next compressor in a clean system, it's like installing a new tire on the same nail that punctured the old one.

Compressors can sit on a shelf for years and not be affected. Usually when they're built or rebuilt, the ports are plugged to keep out moisture, so nothing will rust. However, if you're talking about junkyard compressors, and you absolutely must have a junkyard compressor, I would only take one that has come immediately off the donor car. FWIW I don't recommend junkyard compressors at all. Considering the cost of parts that have to be replaced when the refrigerant system is opened, and the cost of refrigerant, a $10 junkyard compressor costs more in the long run. If you do it right, you'll only have to do it once.

 

from what i watched on an old horsepower tv ep., r12 and r134a use a different kind of lubricant for the coolant and that is why you must thoroughly flush the system. just my

 

Correct...you "MUST" drain and purge the entire system properly because R-12 and R-134A use differnt based oils that are not compatable. You'll need to change the oil in your vacuum pump to and use a separate gauge to monitor your pressures when it comes time to charge the system. I'm certified, but don't have a reclaiming/recycling unit...too expensive. Get it done professionally or remove the entire system and hook-up an AC delete pulley so you can free up some room in your engine compartment. Good luck!

 

12 and 134 are totally different animals. 134 compressors are beefier than thier 12 counterparts. All the advice here is correct. Any contaminate in the system will likely destroy the new comp. Everything has to be changed for 134, complete flush, hoses, O rings, orifice tube and accumulator and lubricating oil. I have still found it is cheaper to replace 12 with 12 than to change everything. A note, anything coming from GMSPO for replacement will be 12 and 134 compatible.

 

what about the retrofit kit? They sell a kit at napa that they claim charges a 12 system with 134 with no replacing of parts. The kit instructs you to remove the old coolant, then charge with a special oil that mixes with both, and then charge with the new coolant. Has anybody tried it?

 

Lot's of people try it with limited success. If all you need is a charge it is still cheaper to use 12, it runs around $60lb, but it cools better and you don't have the 134 issues. 134 has problems in cars that came with it. The power of advertising put's forth these ideas that all you need is an inexpensive kit. The 2 refrigerants and oils are totally incompatible, as well as the fact they operate at different system pressures. Up to you how you want to do it, but talk with any professional HVAC guy and he'll say what the guys here know.

 

makes sense. They just want to make money off of all the people that need to retrofit, they dont care if their product works and is reliable as long as people keep buying it.. What about a hydrocarbon refrigerant? Most of those are compatible with the existing r-12 oil. Has anybody tried one of those?

 

Lot's of people I know have used the Freeze 12 and they claim it works great, however if you get an evaporator leak don't flick your Bick. It's real flammable.

 

Use R12a instead, it can be mixed with 134a and 12.... I don't care what anyone else will say on here, cause it is working fine for my car (1988 Trans AM with R12) and my g/f's car (1997 Sunfire with R134a), as well as many other friends that have been using it for years with NO problems. I live in canada and I bought it off the shelf too,m which is un heard of in canada for R12 and 134a. 13bux a can CDN, they are equivelant to one pound.

 

You are correct, 12A type refrigerants have been around since before Freon and Suva. They were discontinued because they were explosive. 12A is 40% butane, 59%propane and 1%ethane. It will mix with either 12 or 134. Any vehicle using 12A should have a warning label because of the potential for explosion under the right conditions. I saw a video of a vehicle explosion that had butane type refrigerant, not a pretty sight. It's a use it at your own risk substitute.

 

R414B is a much better alternative. It is competely miscible with the existing R12, compatible with mineral oil or PAO/PAG, and operates at pressures lower than even R12. It has cooling performance (latent heat capacity) that is about 4-5% better than R12, and about 15-20% better than R134A. No need to change the expansion control (orifice tubes in our case), oil, switch settings, filters, or anything. I've been using it in my '86 for about 10 years. And it's not classified as a flammable mixture.

You probably won't find it at AutoZone, however.

 

OK Vader, so where do you find it?

 

You can't buy it retail. You need an EPA 608 certification. 414b is a blended refrigerant, 50% HCFC 22, 30% HCFC 124, 9.5% HCFC 142B and 1.5% R-600a(isobutane). Blends with R-22 even though they are EPA SNAP approved require a different dessicant. Also, and with due respect to the "V" man, 22 blends will attack seals designed for 12. Again, if you plan to use an alternative refrigerant or blended one you should start with a completely newly serviced system. Most replacement parts now are designed for use with alternative refigerants. I would guess that Vader, knowing him, probably replaced the seals.