I got my A/C system charged up with R-12 freon and it held 30" vacuum for over 6 hours at the shop. Worked great yesterday and blew ice cold on my drive home from work. Today on the drive home, it worked great until the last 5 minutes of a 30 minute drive. It just blew warm air. I'm clueless as to what happened.

 

Any ideas guys? Isn't there an A/C compressor cycle switch? If so, is it easy to replace and cheap?

 

i have a somewhat simmilar problem, but mine quit after a week, i checked all over the engine bay for leaks, None, while i was under my dash the next day, i noticed Green liquid (NOT antifreeze not watery enough) I'm guessing its the PAG oil i put in before it was charged, Per Service station recomendations. also sry for hijacking the thread, it would be intresting to see if our problems are the same

 

No green stuff under the dash. It just quit blowing cold all at once on my way home. I've disconnected the battery for a few minutes and hooked it back up per the recommendation of a mechanic down the street. He said the computer would run the A/C after I reconnected the battery and turned the A/C switch on. His thoughts were, if the freeon was low/leaked out, the compressor won't turn on, but since the battery was disconnected, it would take a bit for the computer to re-learn that.

 

Was the orifice tube changed? It has a screen that could have clogged. This condition will shut off the compressor.

Seth

 

Last night I unplugged the low pressure switch and jumpered the wires. The compressor did not kick on. I guess I'll take the 12v test kit and start checking from the compressor back.

 

you could also maually check the clutch coil by running a hot wire to one terminal and a ground to the other. if the clutch coil does not click the coil is bad. if it does then perhaps the climate control switch is bad (the little brown selector switch located on top of your hvac controls).

 

What you just stated shows how hard people think before they post.

He cannot simply connect the compressor with a 2-wire jumper. There is a spike supressor diode on the compressor connector wire; therefore either he needs to remove the connector 1st, or observe diode polarity-or he will cook the diode.

Seth

 

Thank you for pointing that out. I'll be taking a 12volt test kit this week and see where the power stops at, and diagnose it from there. I appreciate you watching out for me.

 

that is obvious, but i guess people need exact details...


also there's no need to think, it's just common sense.... just not to everyone. i forget so excuse me

 

I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the switch

 

I was harsh, and apologize.

Seth