I'm looking at getting this cooler:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...5&autoview=sku

I'll be bypassing the stock cooler as well. My question is it looks like I just snip the stock lines then hose clamp that on; is that safe? Running -6AN hose back and forth is going to be expensive. Any ideas?

 

I didn't snip a single line. I pushed the nuts on the lines as far back as necessary, forced the hose that came with the (B&M) kit over the flares, mounted the cooler, cut the lines to fit, hose clamped all four junctions, and called it good. Six months or more with no leaks, and the hoses didn't seem to mind the flares.

HTH, peace

K

 

Well my stock hardlines are going to be in weird spots and floating around. I think I'll cut them, flare them, then do exactly what you said.

 

If the lines are currently not flared, I wouldn't flare them. I simply disregarded that they were flared when I installed my cooler. Check what the instructions say regarding the lines to be sure. Good luck!

K

 

I'm just worried about the hose sort of slipping right off (even with hose clamps)!

 

you could always double up on the hose clamps....

 

If it worries you that much, you could probably flare the lines and call it good. This is the second cooler I have done this way, the other install being 10+ years old and still holding, flares, nuts pushed back and all.

Be careful when cutting them for the sake of trash getting into the lines (burrs, etc.) It's probably obvious to you but I figured it best to toss that out there for other readers.

K

 

Thanks for the input. Yeah, the lines are off the tranny so I'm gonna cut them, file, then flush.

 

Good deal man. FWIW if you haven't bought the cooler yet, the B&M stacked-plate coolers are more durable than the one in your Summit link. Plus even the large ones take up just a small part of the oh-so-precious radiator real estate

K

Edit: take a peek at this ...I know mine is like an anvil compared to the other kind.

 

make sure the lines have a flare in them or overtime they can and will slip off the cooler line without that flare preventing the hose clamp slipping off. $1600 later i had a built up 4L60E in my truck. All over not spending 30 seconds on a double flare kit. and the hose clamps were TIGHT.

 

Over the years I have seen many cars with the lines flared and not flared, and not one cooler leaked. But man, it only has to happen once...thanks for the experiential learning.

K

PS/OT Great paint. Is that Admiral Blue? We're painting the 'Bird next year so I'm a-looking. tia

 

Or if you want a tranny line that will never leak and easy to service (being how your lines are off the tranny already..

Buy 2- 1/8" NPT to -6 fittings, buy a tranny cooler that has -6 inlets/outlets, then buy the total of 4 -6 fittings to fit the Aeroquip rubber line that's NHRA/IHRA approved for oil/fuel. Your gonna have a little more invested than pushing rubber hose over stock lines, but in the big picture it's well worth it.

If this intrests you I can get some part numbers to lay it all out so you can see the cost and fittings needed through Jegs/Summit. It would be later before I could sit down and do that though-big ice storm has me going back out in a little bit to salt

 

I'd love to do that but:

Cooler with AN fittings is about $15 more, -6AN fittings all around are $7 a piece, two adapters are probably another $5 each, then hose is probably over $30. Thats $82 just to have custom hoses that I don't need (although I'd rather do that if I could afford it). I just can't see dumping even more money into my car.

 

Thanks, I think I'll get one like that. Certainly looks better quality.

 

If the parts IHI is discussing aren't too much $$$, and the car is an investment (mine is, an investment in my sanity heh) then the purchase might be worth it to you. I know I would be interested in the kit IHI has in mind, since I'll be pulling the drivetrain soon anyway. I can always upgrade even further and use the current cooler for power steering on one of the other cars...so IHI, fire away once your roads are seasoned, if you don't mind

K

 

If I can do it cheap enough then I'd love to, but for the money without an actual performance upgrade I can't justify the cost, especially in a car thats gonna be sitting for 6 months. I'd love to see prices though.

 

i got a pee break and loading more salt, but later tonight I'll sit down and list part#/prices for a dedicated system that will make life easier over all with no chance in heck at leaking. And Kev is right, I'm not talking about the typical braided AN fittings/line. Aeroquip has a budget line that consists of rubber hoses and steel fittings-MUCH cheaper than original AN stuff!! It's basically a rubber hose that uses push lock connection, and they can be a PITA to get hose completely onto the fitting. I found having a sturdy bench and lots of silicone lube on inside the hose hose makes life easier. The smaller the hose size the harder it is to install onto fitting. I ran -10 fuel line with this stuff and those went together pretty well, considering the -8 I used for return lines and transmission lines. All i did is purchase adapters so from the firewall forward it's all pretty and looks better, behind firewall back is the standard blue line.

 

Thanks IHI. I look forward to seeing the part #s, since I haven't made my "please buy me this for Christmas so that I can finish the frigging car" list

firebirdjosh: Understood, especially if the budget is tight. Then again, only one failure is needed to make IHI's setup a must-buy in the future. And wow, half the year in storage....being from Kali I can't fathom that. lol

K

PS pee break, that kills me

 

Just finished faxing invoices out for today and got the parts needed. We have a local shop that carries these same pieces for less than summit/Jegs, but what I saved in per piece price I lost back to state taxes so it was a wash. Either way, a guy can check ebay for other pieces as well as swap meets, speed shops, etc...

Anyways, these are all in Summit-could'nt find exactly what I was looking for in Jegs so did'nt what to mislead.

2- AER-FCE2003..... 1/8" NPT to -6 adapters for transmission inlet/outlet ports. $5.95/ea or $11.90 for both

4- AER-FBM1512..... -6 straight socketless fittings, these are the ends that will push into the -6 hose $4.95/ea or $19.80 for all 4

1- AER-FCN0615..... 15' of Black -6 socketless hose-figure cutting it in half to get 2 hoses out of 1 for inlet/outlet ports from tranney to cooler. $46.88

1- FLX-3820-6.....Flexlite 7 1/2" x 20" x 3/4" trans oil cooler $51.95

Total $130.53

Like I said before, you can scour around and find better deals on fittings, and coolers-just depends how much investigating to save money you want to do. I got all of my pieces at the local fastner supply house and my cooler from BTE which cost me $64.00 and only difference is mine is pretty coated black as opposed to the aluminum of the flexlite.

It's alot more than sticking rubber fuel line onto stock lines, but it's long term, easy to work on, and would leak. I've literally switched everything over on my car to AN fittings and life is sooo much easier, no more friggin flares to worry about and trying to seal connections that just flat dont wanna seal. Spendy yes, but headaches are gone.

 

Wow thats great. I think if I can track down some cheap lines I'd be all set. I'll check prices and report anything cheaper. Thanks!!!

(Also, I can get used 700R4s all day for $100, so if I blew mine from a leak I wouldn't be too heartbroken ).

 

www.amstreetrod.com

1/8 to -6AN: straight $1.76 each, 90* $3.13 each ($6.26)

straight -6AN: super stock $3.44 each ($13.76)

14' of "super stock" black -6AN hose: $2.28 a foot so $31.92

Probably knock a few bucks off if I can find the exact length of hose needed.

 

Thanks IHI. Now, if I find 1/2" npt - -> -8 adapters, I can run a larger B&M stacked-plate unit. I am presuming that there's no way the socketless hose would be reliable when pushed over the rounded "barbs" on the B&M fittings. Very nice once I piece it together, thanks again!

That site is a nice find Josh. Not as good as $100 700R4s, but good nonetheless

K

 

this sucks, had a reply half typed and hit a wrong key and lost it somewheres

Anyways, I'm not condoning or suggesting using this socketless hose as you would typical rubber hose, but I do have 3 buddies doing just that and it's on fuel lines no less they simply slide the socketless hose over the barbed fittings and then installed hose clamps as an added measure. So far they dont leak, but that's not to say they wont and in order to break the connection, you literally have no other option but to cut the hose. This is very tough stuff, so if you plan to try and make connection in the crude form, be sure you have extra hose inline so your allowed a few snips wihtout leaving yourself 1/2" short and ruining your day.

If you've never installed or dealt with either AN braided hoses or this socketless hose, after assembly and BEFORE making connections, you HAVE to blow out the lines. This is not optional, it is mandatory. When either threading the AN fittings into braided or pressing the socketless fittings int o the hose it will lossen tiny rubber particals from the inside of the hose that can-and has caused problems-one of my buddies doing the hack method had crap in his carb causing all sorts of troubles. so if you go this route, just blown the lines prior to installing...will make life much easier.

Good work on the quick price checks and other suppliers...deals are out there, just a matter of taking the time to find them, that's the nice thing about winter time...all we got is time

 

I'm thinking hose barbs onto the tranny cooler, then using -6AN connectors on the other end of the lines where they meet the tranny.

 

That's what I have planned. Nice and simple.

Thanks for the tip on clearing the lines IHI. Looks like another project is on the way. lol

K

 

I'm gonna get under there and measure, but I was told that they are not 1/8".

 

It's 5/16" inverted flare on my transmission.