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What Do I Need To Do...

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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #1  
quisterio's Avatar
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 479
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From: Glasgow, KY
Car: 87' GTA
Engine: 350 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-Bolt
What Do I Need To Do...

to have my car's running temp to be at or around 190?

Ive noticed that when it's at that temp, the car has so much more of a "Kick" to it, and when it warms up to 225 it loses it.

What do i need to do/buy to be able to run 190 at normal operating temp?

My primary/driver side fan runs all the time, the previous owner wired it that way, but the car still gets up there in temp. some times.

What do i need to do to run around 190 the WHOLE time?
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Old May 9, 2006 | 03:10 AM
  #2  
xlwhellraiser's Avatar
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Alright buddy, here is what you need.

1. 180 thermostat
2. Fan switch (home made for free, or buy one)
3. Flush kit
4. Antifreeze and water ( )

5. CHIP that alters the close/open loop temps.*

Install 180 thermostat. (pretty simple, 10min job at the most).

2. Take a 20amp-30amp toggle switch. Locate the fan relay (I am assuming you have electrical fan/fans). There is a green wire with a white line. Take a bit of the insulation off, but DO NOT CUT THE wire. Now, hook up a 16-18guague wire to it. Run that wire inside your car to the toggle switch. Hook it up to one end of the toggle switch. The other end you can hook up to the chasis ground, or whatever ground is available. The best is chasis ground.
Now whenever the ignition is on the fans will come up with that toggle switch.
If you don't want to do this, than go to any parts store and buy one of those adjustible fan switches (Hypertech if I remember correctly). However, note that your gauge shows the coolant temperature in the heads, not in the radiator. Expect the temp in the heads to be about 20 degrees hotter if not more (This is from personal experience by runing two temp. gauges at one time). So, when you are setting up that hypertech switch, just remember to set it a bit lower of what you want it to run.
3. Flush kits are about 10-20 bucks. They have few different T-fittings that go into a ruber line that runs from the back of the engine to the front. Its usually over the pass. side valve cover. Just read the directions on the flush kit, and you will know what am talking about.
Flushing the system is a great idea if you replace any cooling system component. It eliminates any air in system. This helps the whole system to work in harmony.
Once the T-fitting is in, you hook up your garden hose to it and turn it on. NOTE, the engine NEEDS TO BE COOL before you do this! The water will soon come out of the radiator. Let it run for few minutes. Shut it off. Close the T-fitting. Now you have about 40-50% of your system filled with water. Top it off with pure antifreeze and run the car till it warms up. Than the thermo opens, the stuff in the raditor goes to the motor so just finish topping it off than. All antifreeze, not the 50/50 stuff.

This right here will drop your operating temperature down. However, in traffic it will climb untill you replace your fan.

*5, You really need a chip that, at least, alters the closed/open temps. You can get one from few sources on the net. I like brian from TBIchips.com. You can ask him to just burn you a stock chip with altered cooling temps. Or you can get the Thermomaster chip (a lot more expensive than Brian).

Now if you run a carburator and a clutch fan, you should not be having as many problems.
Switching the thermostat and flushing will be a must there too.

Good luck, and be safe.

Let me know if you have any more questions.
----------
350tpi, dissregard all the carburator comments.

Last edited by xlwhellraiser; May 9, 2006 at 03:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 9, 2006 | 04:56 AM
  #3  
Stekman's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Or just get the thermostat and purchase a fan switch that turns the fans on at a lower temperature (madvet sells one that turns on at 200 and off at 185 - I ran one of these in my Caprice's LG4, all of).
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:30 PM
  #4  
NINÅ's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Originally Posted by Stekman
...........purchase a fan switch that turns the fans on at................200 and off at 185.............



Even tho our cars were designed to run ‘bout 200º you will
derive higher performance and longer life, easier restart because
you will have no heat soak, if you get a manual switch to turn the
fan on at a cooler temp. My cars are much happier at 160º.
“If people drove any slower
they’d be going backwards.”

NINÅ
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Old May 14, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #5  
xlwhellraiser's Avatar
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
One of the missconceptions about the car driving better at a colder temperature is because its in closed loop and its essentially dumping more gas in the motor. It is, however, true that the motor runs better at around 180 degrees. See what am saying here? If you were to lower your operating temperature under to 180 the motor will still trigger open loop (which comes on at 150) thus not really messing with the open/closed loop operations, however you really need some chip tuning to get the motor to do everything according to the right temperature. Its a bit complicated, but it is necessary.

Just get a 180 thermostat, either the switch or make one, and get a good fan.
In highway traffic there is a sufficient airflow to the engine thus lower temperatures. In traffic is where third gens heat up. They really need a bigger (more powerfull fan) 1300 cfm is just not enough for proper operating temperatures. Thats why you see many people wondering why they overheat in stop and go traffic. Just change thermo and get the switch, report back with results.
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