I previously had a 305 in my camaro. Cooling system included dual fans with 2 brand new motors, brand new stock rad, 180* stat, aluminum hi-flo h2o pump, manual fan switch on dash, and aftermarket fan switch designed to turn on at 220 (I think).

I had a rebuilt 350 installed at a shop in town. Not cooling as well at all since I had the new engine installed.

I thought it was b/c they didnt wire up my manual fan switch correctly. I did this and it still would creep up tp 220-230*

Thought it was a faulty stat. Replaced it today with another 180*, and filled the rad with distilled water and water wetter (50/50 mix antifreeze/water in the block). I was hoping to get 75/25 mix + water wetter.

Anyway, I drove it for a little bit and the guage was heading for 220 (maybe a few hairs shy of it). I think I still need to add some more water when it cools down some due to air pockets.

My question is, if what I did today doesnt take care of it, what direction do I go next. Everythign seems to be in perfect working order but its just not cooling as well as it used too. Whats up?
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oh...before, the temp guage at its hottest would sit right between 220 and the dash before it.

 

air pockets will make an engine run a little warmer, so make sure the coolant system is bled out. next do you have an air dam? is it in good shape? if not try to get a new one, they are very important. also since you live in texas it would be safe to add more water than coolant, water is what actually cools the engine down. next how much over is the bore on your new block? this can also effect how warm your engine runs. last you say you have the fans hooked up to a switch? when you are sitting at a light or in traffic turn them on, the stock fan switch comes on too hot in my opinion.
hope that helped a little, i live in texas too so i know what you are dealing with!
kent

 

maybe your temp gauges is inaccurate. i know mine is. when my temp gauge reads 220 my after market reads 184. but your self and aftermarker temp gauge from your local parts store for about $20.00. the oem temp gauges are known for being inaccurate.just my
Martin

 

our cars bleed themselves since our radiator sit higher than our engines. unlike newer cars that require bleeding because the engine sits highewr than the radiator. thats why they com with proviions to bleed the system.

 

My manual switch controlled fan is always on. My air dam is old but intact. Drained all fluid out of the rad when i put the new stat in (which has provision for bleeding air) and filled with distilled water only with water wetter.

Everything is working as it should, but the engine is just running warmer than i like it too. I'm still making adjustments, so we'll see.

 

so u have a manual fan set up,
but another setup that makes the fan comes on at 220?

if the fan comes on at 220 and not before taht,
it sure will reach 220,
then a little higher until the system starts to cool down.

if the fan is always on from the beginning,
i think the only way is to get a 160 stats.
the cooling will start off from earlier stage and should help
u remain in lower temp range.

if not, consider custom fan setting,
i think some1 here swapped like a volvo fan assembly(blade, shroud, motor, etc) to his camaro for better cooling.

 

I have the dual fan setup where one fan comes on at 220 (primary) and my manually controlled fan is always on (secondary). With a 180* stat I hit 220-230.


So...i'm moreso considering going with a cooler fan temp switch for the primary so it comes on at 200 and off at 185.