so just now i replaced my fan switch with the hypertech 185 fan switch because mine wasnt weorking but now when i turn the car on the needle sits at the other side and never even goes over to 0 even when its cold thanks for the help
mike
mike
so i let it cool off a little and tried it again and the gauge moved back to 100 i filled it up on coolant let it run for a little and out of no where the needle hit the other side of the gauge and wouldnt move any cooler, and i have a new temp sensor
Senior Member
xplane
Senior Member
close
Aug 4, 2015
- Join DateSep 2004
- LocationKansas
- Posts:830
- iTrader Positive Feedback0
- iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Car85 camaro sport coupe
- Engine2.8 MFI
- Transmissionv6 700R4 wish it was a 5spd Stick
- Axle/GearsStock non posi 3.42s
- Likes:0
- Liked:0 Times in 0 Posts
Well the fan switch and temp sender are two different things as you said. so it shouldnt matter if you have a new fans switch if the gauge was reading wacky.
That said you probably have an air bubble in the system you need to fill the rad as full as it will go, leave the cap off and start the car. let it run till the coolant level starts to drop and add till it wont take any more, just let it run for 10 to 15 mins keeping an eye on the fluid level adding as needed to get most of the big air bubbles out of the system. If the temp sender for the gauge is somewhere wheres a bubble could form it will be out of the coolant so it will take a lot longer to get hot and when it does it will read WAY hot. you will be really surprised once the T-stat opens about just now much air will come out. when i did mine the coolant level dropped 6-7 inches everytime one of those bubbles worked its way out. mine did that 3 times cause each time one of those bubbles went past and the coolant cooled off the T-stat it closed till the coolant got hot again. once the bubbles are out of the system you will be able to look into the rad and there will be what looks like a little whirl pool in there as the engine sucks the water out.
Is it then ECU sensor you replaced or the Gauge sender?
That said you probably have an air bubble in the system you need to fill the rad as full as it will go, leave the cap off and start the car. let it run till the coolant level starts to drop and add till it wont take any more, just let it run for 10 to 15 mins keeping an eye on the fluid level adding as needed to get most of the big air bubbles out of the system. If the temp sender for the gauge is somewhere wheres a bubble could form it will be out of the coolant so it will take a lot longer to get hot and when it does it will read WAY hot. you will be really surprised once the T-stat opens about just now much air will come out. when i did mine the coolant level dropped 6-7 inches everytime one of those bubbles worked its way out. mine did that 3 times cause each time one of those bubbles went past and the coolant cooled off the T-stat it closed till the coolant got hot again. once the bubbles are out of the system you will be able to look into the rad and there will be what looks like a little whirl pool in there as the engine sucks the water out.
Is it then ECU sensor you replaced or the Gauge sender?