hole in radiator. starts as soon as you start car. will a 87 2.8 auto radiator work for a v8, only thing I have available. this sucks bad, I gotta go to work but can't drive there.

 

Just go buy a new one for like 150 its not that much

 

Is it the same or near same size as your stock radiator? If it is and the hook-ups are in the same location give it a try.

 

looks to be same size but hook ups are reversed. don't have the money to buy one this blows.

 

make it fit...if they are reversed turn the radiator upside down duh!!! haha jk really save money and buy a new one

 

i bought an aluminum v8 radiator... it runs GREAT. what i had to do was buy extra tubing and 2 little metal (don't get plastic) pipes from lowes for 3-4$ a piece. 2 1/2" and a few more clamps. i don't have any pix, but it looks just like a v8 setup.

the pipes are like elbowed. 6-8" long, a 90* turn, and then a couple of inches and a lip at the end. The top will be extremely snug, the bottom should pop right into place.

 

ive got a plastic radiator outta a '90 rs 305. only thing missing is the draincock. if you want it, im only looking for the shipping price, let me know.

 

so i filled up the radiator and went to get bar's stop leak. HUGE puddle of coolant under the car when I returned. I see the leak in the radiator but I dont think it's the cause of this puddle. It's on the driver's side, the feed hose at the top isn't leaking. I don't remember dragging the car any at all. What else is under there that could be leaking that bad.

 

is it leaking under the radiator

or under the front of the engine ?

only you can aswer as to where its coming from

you will have to just look and see

if its driver side hten it could be the therm housing gasket, but then it might still be leaking from the pass side of the radiator and traveling across the rad support and falling off the driver side

so...


its either going to be a hose, or the radiator, or the water pump or the thermostat gasket

tanks are known for cracking on these

new radiator can be had for a little less than 150 if you shop around, advance auto has one for 117

 

It was leaking where the aluminum clamps on the plastic tanks, bars stop leak fixed that. About 3 days later though at least 3 new spots started spraying so it is trash, even though they do not leak all the time, I'm no HVAC professional but that doesn't make sense to me. So a buddy brought me a copper one he forgot he had and it doesn't leak. Everything is the same except no neck that hooks up to the heater control valve. Is there somewhere else I can hook that up as I do need the heater.

 

I wouldent use any stop-leak unless you have no choice (in the country and you have to get home to get a new radiator), It creats a buildup of c##p that blocks/narrows passeges in the engine/radaitor and causes overheating later on down the track.

Before you install youre new radiator (when you get it) id advise you to run a cooling system flush product, All youre cooling system leaks will show up because the system flush will be removing all the stop-leaks c##p and cleaning the water passeges in the block.

 

Yep I flushed it twice, that's when the radiator leaks started. Stop Leak was a quick fix, the way it was leaking, I doubt much of it made it to the block. So what about the heater control valve problem gotta hook this new radiator up , just don't know what to do about the heater.

 

Ok so some extensive searching I think I know how to bypass the heater control valve. Power steering pump whines like hell and bleeding and fluid change doesn't do any good so I'll throw one on there while I'm working there. While I'm clearing up that mess though I thought about removing the air pump and air conditioner compressor, it is bad anyway and would make spark plug changes a hell of alot easier. Can I completely do away with both without the delete pulleys on a serpentine belt setup? I mean completely remove not reroute the belts.