skiroulertx447

I found a belt laying around that fit on my compressor. Fired it up and turned the ac to max and it didn't engage the compressor clutch. Shut it down checked the connections and found a resistor between the two??. Cleaned up the connections and removed the resistor, still didn't work.
I assume it is low on refridgerant? what are my choices other than the 134a crap?

Fullsizewagon

The "resistor" you removed is a diode. It was there to protect relay contacts and ECM from damage due to inductive kickback when shutting off the clutch. Replace it, and be sure to put it the right way around. The band goes toward the positive wire.
To test the electrical circuit and the clutch you only need to put a short between the contacts of the low-pressure switch plug. It's located near the aluminum receiver/dryer canister. Don't run the compressor for more than a couple of seconds as it doesn't get properly lubricated if there's no freon in the system.
The only ozone-friendly drop-in R12 replacements that I know of that doesn't contain R134a are of the hydrocarbon type. They are a (flammable) mix of propane, butane, and isobutane. It is supposed to be as effective and gentle on the compressor as R12. It's also compatible with the old mineral oil so no need to exchange anything. Search for "hydrocarbon refrigerant".

skiroulertx447

why would the diode just be duct taped on to the connector????

ResurrectingZ

To keep it from breaking off (I think it comes like that from factory mine had it as well). I think the Freeze 12 is one of the alternatives (not %100 sure).

skiroulertx447

well I'll throw the diode back on with the high tech duct tape, and I found out my nieghbor can charge it with the "obsolete" r12 that he has a "ton" of.

Fullsizewagon

Good for you! (Wish I had such neighbors..)
Yea, the duct tape thing does make it look like a backyard fix..

Btw., the Freeze 12 is made up of approx. 80% R134a plus 20% R142b.

Toehead

I wouldnt use freeze 12, because of oil incompatibility.

However, the hydrocarbon refridgerant always worked very well for me before I did the motor swap and had to junk the AC.

ringo234

So are you saying that the website:
http://www.freeze12.com/
is lying when they claim to lubricant compatible with R12?

I’ve had freeze12 in my IROC for a couple of weeks now and so far it works great.

Toehead

I'm saying that it is a cobbled together blend of junk, and yes I am saying that it is not fully compatible with the existing oil, because it contains some r134A, which is not compatible.

ringo234

Do you have any proof? Besides I replaced all oil and freon with the kit I got.

Toehead

R134A does not mix with the Mineral oil used for r-12. They seperate in the system like oil and water. I would rather have somehting that gets all the oil into my compressor.


Proof-
http://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117306

The freeze 12 stuff has its own oil (PAG) that it can carry around, but that just reduces system cpacity by having unecessary junk pooling around in there.

ringo234

no where in your proof did it mention freeze12. The only proof I need though is how cold my car gets with AC on.

I did evacute the system before charging with Freeze12.

Oh BTW, I do have an EPA license. I graduated from an HVAC school paid for by the Veterans. I do not work in that field though.

ringo234

no where in your proof did it mention freeze12. The only proof I need though is how cold my car gets with AC on.

I did evacute the system before charging with Freeze12.

Oh BTW, I do have an EPA license. I graduated from an HVAC school paid for by the Veterans. I do not work in that field though.

Toehead

I don't need to mention it. Its composition speaks for itself.

20% is 134a, so 20% won't mix with existing oils.

If every shop did it the correct way and evacuated the system, it would be a nonissue. However, that is not the case and people are stuck with bastardized systems with half capacity.