so im not ready to put the car up for winter. id like to retain the defrost function, but with this proform electric water pump, there is no heater return provision. i got multipul ports on my hurricane manifold to tap into, but i think i need to tee into the lower hose for a return from the heater core. has anyone done this?

 

the return side of the system in the upper hose, not the lower.

should be able to tap from the manifold then after the t-stat., i think

 

im talking about the return from the heater core, i know the lower hose is the feed for the pump/block and the t stat flows back into the radiator with hot coolant, hence the reason heater cores are fed by them. im just wondering how others have routed the return from the heater core.

 

First of all you need a coolant bypass flowing all the time.
When I installed my electric cooling pump I also replaced the radiator and the new radiator happened to have a half inch pipe thread hole on the passanger side of the radiator. So the that was where the heater core return went.
That is the simplest way I can think of to plumb in the heater core and by pass.
The best place to put the heater return is some where on the cooled side of the radiator.

 

if you have an electric WP, couldnt you run the water pump off the same power that turns the fan on? that way you wouldnt need a thermostat.
just put another relay in and wire it so that when the fans are on, the water pump is on.

 

Stock system with the water valve takes water from the manifold and then it goes from the heatercore into the rad as the stock rad has a port available for it. electric waterpump shouldnt matter as the stock waterpump did not have a port for the water valve I dont recall. Just take from the manifold and plumb to the heater core and return to the rad. Rad has to have inlet for it.

 

my w/p is on a manual switch, as are my fans fuel pump and ignition. electrical is not a problem, besides, with an electric water pump, thermostats have to be drilled to alow constant(or minimal restricted) flow, or the valve to be removed to add to restriction the flow of coolant thru the rad to prevent overheating. dead heading a electric w/p is bad, and no restriction in the water neck will cause overheating on a street car due to coolant passing to fast thru the rad before cooling. but either way these are not my problem.

its the hydrualic dynamics of coolant flow to and from the heater core. stock sbc water pumps have a provision for a heater core return.

my rad is a griffin, with no extra ports.

the 1st pic is a stocker sbc w/p with the heater provision plugged for racing.

the 2nd is my current setup (besides missing the alternator). red circles are exsisting coolant plugs (note the one on the upper hose is meant for a port hidden behind it) and the blue on the lower hose and back of manifold are possible returns from the heater core, my true question is witch one to use? im guessing to tee into the lower hose.

 

if you can i would T into the lower hose. Nice looking engine you got there, you dont run any other accessories like alternator and power steering?

 

yea, im gonna try that.
thanks ill trade you engines anyday! thats an older pic i had handy, this is a bit newer, u can see i ditched the 2nd batt, and mounted an alternator.

ill update after i find a a/c delete box, after i just plateded it all off too! oh well.