When I did my head/ TPI to carb swap, my fan switch connection broke off. After adding the new heads, I just plugged the hole and run a ground to the wire. Now the single fan works when the key is on.

I run a Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake and I just bought a 170* fan switch. I run long tube headers and dont want to put the switch back in the head.

Will it be ok to put the switch in the intake back by the distributor?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7501/?rtype=10

I want to keep it out of the way and hook the single wire back up.

thanks

 

bump.

 

Sure you can try it and see if it will work for you. Just make sure that you put it were the engine coolant will be at the temp. of your motor.

 

There are two access holes in the front of the intake beside the thermostat. I guess that is the best place. There are also two in the back by the distributor, but it might not register correctly. It would be a bit cleaner in the back, oh well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7501/?rtype=10

 

Yes sir you need to go with one of the front locations, good luck with your project.

 

I would try to get it in the thermostat. they make housings with threaded holes with plugs and what not, thats where I would put it

 

I have mine in my thermostat housing and it works fine, havent had a problem in years with it there.

 

I'm just try to keep a clean install. I would like to keep it away from the header heat. I guess it will go in the intake up front.

Thanks.

 

Seems like it should work just as well in the back......

 

Maybe I am wrong but 170 for a fan switch seems low. my car runs at 180

 

That's what I thought, but some guys are saying the temp can vary in the back compared to around the thermostat housing. I would prefer to use one of the rear access ports for a cleaner install.

 

Not when may guys are running 160* thermostats. The 170* keeps enough heat in the motor to be efficient, especially considering i'm running a carb. It might be a problem if it was EFI, but I doubt it.

I think this is the one I bought. On a 176* and off at 160*. Its been a while since I bought it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4026/

 

Any more opinions on this??

 

What about in top of the water pump? I'm not running heater hoses, so that is an option also.

 

You could do that but the temp in the water pump might be different than the coolant temp in the motor. I don't think thats a good place for it

 

I guess I will try it in the front port of the intake on the passenger side of the thermostat housing. I will keep a eye on the temp gauge to see when it kicks on just to be safe.

 

I would put in the thermostat because that probably going to be the most accurate spot to get coolant temp. I under stand wanting a clean install but once its in there and the air cleaner is on you won't even notice it

 

My only thought is that make sure it shuts the fan off at a higher temp well above what the tstat is. Before I got a fan switch that probes the rad, I had one that turned on at 200 and off at 185 i think. It would work....until the motor got up to temp, then it would never shut off. Even cruising down the highway, my temp gauge needle would barely be above the lower mark, but the fan was still running.

 

I'm running a 160* thermostat with this fan switch.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4026/

 

I used this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4028/
One word of caution - read the reviews on these switches! Some people are happy with them, most hate them. Mine stopped working less than a month after install. That's why I switched to a rad probe setup.
Also, their tech support says these switches are supposed to install into the factory location, not the intake.
For $40, it's worth a try. I'd recommend carrying tools in case it fails and you need to get home though. I had a relay setup (like you should); fused power from batt, signal switch connected to ign power with a toggle inline (always switched on), ground to ground, and acc to the fan switch. When the fan switch failed, I just disconnected it and grounded it to the body. Then I could control the fan with the toggle until my rad probe switch came in.

 

I'm luck to drive it twice a month right now and not far from home. Hopefully the switch will last considering its not a DD. I'm just trying to not burn the fan motor out from running all the time.

A quick backup pigtail would work to ground the fan wire. Just in case.

 

While you are doing this I would re-route the water out of my throttle body and put it in one of those holes. Two birds with one hose. I think I remember a few holes in the front of the intake below the t-stat housing that might work.

 

1st- that's too cold.. you want the engine to get hotter than that to run efficient and get the oil warm enough to cook all the bad stuff out of it. i have a 195 thermostat and try to keep enough of the grille blocked off to run right around 210 degrees.. no detonation problems in 105 degree summer heat and averages 23mpg overall. the temp switch for the fan is one that is rated to come on at 210 and shut off at 205, but it actually comes on at 220 and goes off at 215. over 10,000 miles driven so far this summer and it still works..

2nd- put the switch in the water crossover in the area of the thermostat. that's where GM puts the temp sending unit to tell the ecm the engine temp, and they put it there because that's the best place to get an accurate average temp.

find the Echelin online electrical catalog and look thru the fan switches- they will have a part number that starts with the letters "FS". you will be shocked at just how many different switches there are... find the one you want and buy it at your local NAPA...

 

I'm not running a TB, Its carb.

 

Maybe too cold for EFI, but not carb.

Before with the fan running while the key switch is on, might have been keeping it too cold. Adding the switch should let the motor heat up quicker than with a continuous fan running. And yes, I had decided to install it in the front crossover near the thermostat.

Not that my cars sole purpose is drag racing, but most racers run no thermostat or re-stricter and constant fan. I think my combination will work just fine.