86 irock z28

ok like i bout a 86 i rock z28 it was orgenly at but i switched it over to a 5 speed so it still has a brand new at radatior in it i have also replaced the whater pump thermast it has a after marckt fan on thier that pulls more btu then the oled singol one it is acktavated bye a switch i wird in to my dash i hade a thermasta sincer that whent in to the radatior but becas of the over heating i put it in thier so i can turn it on as sone as i start the car it a 91 air duck on it culed that be the isues newer parts better tecnolge butter parts right ? at least thats what i was thinking lol it draws the air strate in frome the 2 holes in the frunt i have to run it with out fog lights beacase it gets to little aire flowe ok kool i can deal with that but if it hot out i have to run the heat and fan constently and the mug still over heats i noticed that the ac condicer in frunt of the raditor is smashed up some culed it realy cass that much restictive flowe and if so whear can i get a good cheap one ??? pleas help

camaronewbie

OK - I'm having a really hard time reading everything because your not using punctuation, not making complete sentences, have very stray thoughts, and you need a spell checker really really bad. But ... from what I'm picking up ...

1) Your A/C condensor (the radiator-looking thing in front of the actual radiator) has many mashed fins, right? This would definitely restrict the air flow - tremendously. If you plan on keeping A/C, then you need to replace it, or at least get in there with a pick or screwdriver and straighten all the fins back out - very hard work and very tedious to do. If not using or keeping the A/C, just remove the condensor.

Also note - the small space between the condensor and the radiator is notorious in our cars for collecting alot of trash (leaves, twigs, road trash, etc) - clean all that out as well.

2) You DO or DO NOT have the air dam in place? The air dam should be a plastic piece, about 3 ft long and about 4 inches tall, that is mounted directly under the radiator.

3) What temp thermostat are you running? Factory spec is a 195, but do not go lower than a 180 - anything lower is just too low - it will freak out the computer, making your car run rich all the time because the engine is too cool. Even a non-computer controlled carbed car should never need lower than a 180 stat.

4) Cooling fan - as I read, you have your fan rigged to a switch inside car, and you turn it on/off manually, correct? If so, this is a disaster waiting to happen - some day you'll forget, or in an emergency someone else will drive your car and not know, or something. I'd look into an aftermarket fan controller - they get temp readings from a probe that goes between the radiator fins, and they work really well. I run an expensive Flex-a-lite model ($90), it has alot of nice features including adjustable temp range, and performs flawlessly - but cheaper models with less features are available.

5) Are we assuming the temps are hot because of what the stock factory temp gauge reads? These gauges on a good day are far from accurate - unless the car is actually bubbling over into the oveflow tank, and making steam - you are not overheating. From the factory, these cars were designed to run hot to help with emissions - stock factory fan setups the fan came on at 220, and it's not uncommon at all to see a 3rd gen car run 240 or even higher in the summer without it actually overheating (since the factory gauges suck). You might try a new gauge sender to see if it makes the gauge read differently (it's between #1 and #3 spark plug, in the driver side head - has one single green wire to it).

slohand

The single biggest thing I did to reduce my engine temp was an aluminum radiator. Picked it up off ebay for less than $100.