GM's don't use a dual temp switch but BMW does....it has an integrated low and high circuit to ground and it comes with wiring leads....NAPA carries it.....nobody else carries the wiring leads in stock and its specific to the BMW switch....just splice them to your wiring.

 

doesnt that require an adapter to get it to fit in the head? Wont it leak?

 

The articles I have on it talk about placing it in the radiator hose....there are seperate leads to ground one side of each switch, the other to the temp switch and the 3rd to a relay trigger. So 6 leads total. You would use the temp switch as a spacer of sorts say, on your lower hose and use barb fittings on each side of it. I'll see if I can find the links.

 

This says its for a Volvo fan but it also applies to the Taurus fan.
This link takes you to a site showing the part # of many of the parts that may be needed for a Taurus fan install.Just scroll down and you will see them.
= http://www.nebraska4x4.org/index.php?topic=1301.0


Also wouldn’t you install a temp. controlled switch as close to or in the upper radiator hose as possible ?

 

Thats a pretty cool article. I like the switch in the head approach for a cleaner look. But I suppose I could drill and tap the thermostat housing if I have to.

what is the thread size for the switch, and what are the thread size for the one that goes into the head?

Im hoping (and praying) that when it is all said and done, it will look fairly factory...I hope.

I had an apostrophe. Since the primary fan runs all the time, and only when the engine is on, I will use that control wire to ground out the control relay coil. That way, my fan only come on when the engine is running.

 

Heres one more that seems to have some info that might be interesting. =

http://www.ranger-forums.com/engine-...-2speed-69085/

 

I suppose I could do that. Run the low off the head temp switch, and the high off the AC request.

 

Wired up the fan. Still need to finish the control relay. This is pretty much what the final product will look like.

 

Looks great. That is one huge fan.
Say, if you put wings on the car it could possibly get you off the ground.

Side note = The main reason I posted the last link was to show wire gage and relay amperage,etc.
I was not suggesting that you wire it that way.
My only suggestion is that I would make sure the fan kicks on at 190* with a 180* thermostat.

 

I appreciate any and all advice I am getting on this project. This is a very ambitious thing to do to my only source of transportation.

He is doing it basically the same way I did it (10 ga wire and a 70A relay). As he says "overkill, but not a bad thing". It also shows another way to hook it up.

 

Now Im in trouble. Almost ready for installation, and I decide to actually measure the thing.

Fan 23x15

radiator 27x18

Do I now need to scrap the fan for a larger one? Will this current one work?

 

am I good for install, or did I jack it all up?

 

What are you talking about? Why won't that one work? I usually stick with Motorcraft fans but I don't see why you can't use the one you have....?

 

I don't think it will work due to the amount of core left exposed. Is there a way/location to mount it so it can work and be efficient?

 

Do you have a photo showing the hole unit? If the fan has a shroud around it ,that's all you need. If you're worried about it not covering the entire radiator don't. Just mount it center of the radiator and wire it in. I would run power to the fan from the battery once its mounted just to see how it acts.

 

First post of this thread has a picture of the fan


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

 

IMO it is perfect . That fan with that shroud could lift you into the air if you had wings.

 

It doesnt cover the entire core. What would be the optimal way to mount it? Up by the upper radiator hose, or just centered?

 

I would mount the shroud center of the radiator. From the measurements you gave your only playing with a few inches. If you center the shroud that will give you approximately 2in of uncovered radiator around the sides. Perfect.
You have to understand that you're installing one of the strongest fans available for your car.The actual flow rate of that thing ( ? ) has got to be massive or they would not be using them. You have absolutely nothing to worry about concerning the fans potential. If its wired properly you will have it.

By the way I have spent my fair share of time living in the Bullhead City, AZ/Laughlin, NV area. Hottest place on the continent second only to Death valley. No Camaro at the time but a 72 Chevy Blazer did the trick.

 

Finished wiring the fan. Gave it a quick Ops Check and it moves a lot of air, and it is loud.

Stage 1 complete.

Stage 2- How the f- am I going to get it to work in the car? Still thinking of that beamer dual fan switch with an adapter. Issue that I see there is the actual temp switch will be spaced away from the coolant flow in the head with the adapter. If there is a better/easier/cheaper solution, by all means lets hear it. Since my ECM is programmed to always run the primary fan, I will route the control relay through that.

I am trying to do this without the use of toggle switches or as little additional mumbo jumbo in the car. Trying to go for a clean(ish) look.

thanx for all the help so far.

 

I really think my variable speed resistor harness is your best option hut if you are looking for cheaper....you're looking at about $130 for my harness kit designed for your application. If you want details...PM me and I can work with you on it.

 

For example, my harness includes a control relay which is triggered off a low temp switch of your choice, then your ECM can he used to trigger medium fan speed with an optional high speed override OR, use your AC to trigger high speed as well.....all options can be wired in parallel, too. My kit has only 6 leads to run so its very easy to install.

 

Will this switch work for the fan switch? Will it fit in the head?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Tempera...#ht_1846wt_898

 

Baking pan fan shroud is my plan. I found one almost the exact core dimensions. I just havent messed with the install yet, but should work out just about perfect.

 

Have you checked painless or Amazon for genuine Ford sensors???? That price seems alittle steep to me....

 

On shroud I tabbed some aluminum onto the contour shroud to pull air on entire core.....once the slow painter finishes what he is doing I will post a few pics of harness and all other related parts....turned out great....I powder coated the aluminum add-on to match shroud

 

The problem with using that switch is its an odd thread size....so a hard to find adapter may be needed, probably no parts stores stock one in case you get in a jam and you are stuck with whatever temp range that gives you. At least on GM switches you have a wide variety to choose from. What's wrong with using GM ones? Way easier to incorporate imo.

 

Besides that, this guy must not be aware that Mark VIII fans are NOT dual speed. Running a dual temp sensor won't make it so....he doesn't appear to be building kits from experience. Temp ranges are too close imo.

 

I picked up a length of aircraft quality u seal that I will put around the inside lip that goes against the radiator. Make a nice seal to the fan. The same seal that goes on the leading edge of the wing right next to the anti icing area, so it can handle heat.

So that switch wont work then? I know GM has a wide variety of switches but none for dual speeds. I like the head switch because it helps keep things clean. and is more accurate than a push in the radiator type.

 

Been doing some pondering. Since my primary fan runs all the time with key on engine on, but does not run with the key on engine off, I will use that to ground the control relay. that way the ECM is still getting a fan command signal.

For low speed, just use a fan switch in the head( http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ing+fan+switch). Since I am running a 180 Tstat.

High speed will be run off the AC High pressure switch (if it is still functional).

it is still cold enough here to be able to mess around with it and experiment and still be ok.

what you think? No more messing with dual temp switches, etc.

 

The temps of "on" at 210* and off at 195* is not bad but a Taurus fan installation should be able to do better than that. Sorry but I would not settle for anything less than 190* "on" and 180* "off".
As far as the two speeds fan goes it’s where the problem is. A single speed fan can be wired in with a $20.00 adjustable thermostatic switch safely and that includes the high amp fans. If the Taurus fan can be run using only the high speed setting than that's what I would do. This is how I would wire in the high speed fan. Set it at 190* "on" and it will turn itself "of" at around 180* using a 180* thermostat. Your Taurus fan should be able to do that .My 16in. fan is wired to a switch just like this with a 180* thermostat and it works great.

 

Even at low speed it is pulling twice the air through the radiator than stock ever could think of, and doesn't hit the electrical as hard.

 

Than you could put the low setting on the circuit above then the high either on another circuit like the one above with the thermostat set higher than the low as a back up fan. Or use the heavy gage wire on a switch in the head also set at a higher temp. You could even put the high fan on a relay controlled toggle switch in the cockpit/inside the car.
I have total control over when my two fans come on. Ones a 14in puller set at 190* and the other is a 16in pusher set as a back up at 200*.They are each on totally independent circuits and have nothing to do with each other and better yet nothing to do with the stock (lower gage wire than is necessary for the Taurus fan) system. If one fan stops on you the other takes up the slack.
Heres what the controllers look like. You can install them in a less conspicuous place but I chose here.( the tape on the wires are for marking only)

Side note = the thermostat probes are placed in between the fins of the radiator just below the top radiator hose.

 

It doesn't need to be as complicated as you are making it. If you want to take advantage of a 2-speed fan, you need:

Volvo relay
(2) HD relays to act as a control and high speed override
Fuse link
BAT source
IGN source
AC or manual override trigger
(2) temp switches

That's it. As for looking clean and neat, that depends on how YOU install it and route the wiring. Temp switches are accurate to +/- 3 degrees while rad. fin probes are +/- 8 degrees at best. If you are running a factory TPI, you want that engine to run as close to 195-200 as you can.

 

My fin probes activate the fans at 190* and 200* using an infrared temp gun and accurate stock gage .
I just turn the adjusting **** to its highest setting than when the gun and gage hit 190* I slowly turn the **** down until it turns the fan on. Done
That's how you set an adjustable switch.

 

great info