I went to the junkyard to get a cooling fan to do the Taurus fan swap. Upon looking at other posts, I think I grabbed the wrong fan. What do you think? will this fan work?

 

I have 1 of those in my parts locker, if you want/need another 1.

-It works fine on all the speeds btw

 

looks like a Taurus fan to me,does look like it might be an earlier 3.8 fan though-perhaps ~1991.

 

It was sitting in the engine bay of a 95. Made it convenient. I tried it out and it does function. I guess once I find a suitable controller I will give it the ol' college try.

 

Be cautious on how loud the fans are because I have a fan in mine that can be heard over the engine and that includes a 3in. Flowmaster AmericanThunder CAT back with 80 series muffler. As soon as time permits it will be replaced. The fan is not what I want to hear.

 

the contour has a twin fan set up that works really great..... check it out... two speed as well.... I run those on my 750+hp foxbody big block and I run it on the street in Texas all summer without issue..... they work great

 

dual two speed fans??

 

the contour has two fans as well as a high (when AC is on, and regular for street driving) the contour was such a turd it over heated all the time so ford had to upgrade to this system to fix the issue... the two fans rock!!!!! use an after market adjustable set up and blammo you have a great system like I said I run it on my racecar and the class I am in we have to do a 35mile street cruise before the drag race. I have never had a heat up issue even in 100+ degree Texas weather

 

Do you have pics of your install? Just to see what it looks like and takes to do.

 

these are not my pics but this is what guided me thru my install.... feel free to email me directly txcop41@hotmail.com getting ready to do my ford contour electric fan conversion thread, its on the ALLMOPARPARTS.COM I am trying to grab the link but I am a computer idiot I blundered into that article... sorry

 

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Home > Technical > Thermostatically Controlled Electric Fan Upgrade


Read more: http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...#ixzz2iTS5L03A

 

that is another great article... hope I am not violating any rules of the forum....

 

Thermostatically Controlled Electric Fan Upgrade in the muscle mustangs and fast fords. that ^^^^^^ is the link you should look for...

 

I just looked and I dont have the Taurus fan any more, but I do have a stock fan and a slim fan if any needs a fan.

 

I found a JY here in Houston he sold me a pile of the contour fans fairly cheap.... I am about to wire one into this 84 Camaro I was given... then its time to figure out the darn rearend alignment issue....

 

Just bought 2 70A (fans) and a 40A (control) relay. Waiting for next paycheck to buy the controller.

So far the plan is- the ECM will control the low speed relay (just like stock) and the fan controller will control the high speed (based on temp) but also be wired into the AC.

 

I believe I have all painless sensors and controllers... cannot remember I wired the stang about a year ago.... slept since then..LOL but either way as long as you stay cool!!!!!

 

I am starting to put a schematic together. My idea is to use the stock wiring to trigger the relays to turn the fan on. ie using the ECM to turn on the low speed (primary) and the AC/Fan Switch to turn on the high speed relay (Secondary). When I examining my car' wiring, the secondary fan harness is sliced and diced. The connector for the temp switch in the head is gone, I dont know if the AC switch is there, the fan stays on all the time. I think the primary fan's control wiring is still intact...I think. Is there any suggestions that you guys have to check if the wiring is still there and working? I want to do it this way to eliminate extra fan conrollers, etc.

What I do know-
*The primary fan will not come on unless the engine is running (key to on does not turn on fan). I do not know if it ever turns off. Engine cold, it is running. This tells me (in my interpretation) that the primary fan is still connected to the ECM.

* On the primary fan, the PO Put a spade connector on the green/wht wire. If I turn the key to on (Engine off), fan is off, disconnect wire, and ground it fan comes on.

*Primary fan is making a squeaking noise.

* The secondary fan runs all the time. Key to On it turns on, engine running its on. I do not know if it ever turns off.

 

the contour has twin fans I believe it moves almost 4000 CFM on high. I just wired it as ford intended... both fans run slower on low and both run fast on high.... I have never seen over 190 on the temp gauge even under full throttle conditions... that is with a stroked 460 block. I trying to find out exactly what the computer controls on my 1984 Camaro. that is a trick without factory manuals I have been told so much BS. by a trans shop I was told the 700R4 is not controlled by the computer, but I am wondering about torque converter lock up does the computer operate that???? lol fun stuff

 

Yes

 

Im going a different route with this thing now. I have decided to ditch the whoel "build your own electrical circuit" thing and go with a Volvo 2 speed fan controller. Its half the price of all the relays, wires, etc. and is pretty much plug and play.

Going to hook low side into the ECM, and just run the high speed to the temp switch in the head, and AC high pressure switch (where is that located?). Easy.

 

Why didn't you choose to use the fan assembly from a Gen 3/4 Taurus dual fan setup? I would think this would be more "plug 'n' play". I am thinking on going this route when I convert my vehicle to the serpentine belt system.

 

No, its not totally plug and play, I think the amp draw is still to high for the stock wiring. I think it will be easier to mount the single fan than the duels. But honestly, havent really looked into the duel fan setup.

Besides, the PO chopped up the fan wiring in the car badly, so this will give me an excuse to tear it all out and start over.

 

I knew it wouldn't be completely plug 'n' play, but was hoping that the shroud would fit decently with nominal modifications.

But if the wiring was already butchered, makes sense.

 

I searched

nastyz28taurusfan

There are pics & discussion using the Volvo relays.

IDK how to link from my phone.
A good read if you want // need pics // info on that.

 

There are a few different ways to wire in a circuit like this but this is what I used. It does not incorporate the AC and is used on a car that came with a single fan and controlled by a switch in the head. This diagram is the one that came with the controller with a relay added. The circuit is completely independent of the stock wiring. My fans are not pulling high amperage like the Taurus fan so this can be used. The next diagram below is what I would use for a high amp fan.

 

The way I was figuring on wiring the Volvo Relay pack was to run it off the battery (through a relay controled by a switched 12V). Low speed will run off the ECM, just like the primary fan does. The High speed will be off of a Temp switch in the head, I believe the installed AC switch is bad and wont get changed. that is the plan anyways.

 

Here’s a circuit showing that you can use the fan controller in line with the low amperage aspect of the relay allowing the amp rating of the controller to be basic. That means you "don't need" one with a high amperage rating. ( very,very nice).
This would be the way to wire an adjustable fan controller using a high amp fan without incorporating the AC.. By the way I have two circuits like the one I posted above controlling 2 fans.The primary comes on at 190* and the secondary comes on at 210* with a 180* thermostat. Works great and it’s nice to be able to adjust if necessary.


If you wire it in using a relay (not included in the kit) the way it’s shown in the diagram below you will be good to go. Use one for each fan.You can not run two fans on one circuit .If anyone wants to know the easy way to set the "on" temperature of an adjustable controller just ask..Here’s the controller I used but you will want to use heaver gage wire for the fan and totally ignore the directions in the kit.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...267187_69565_0_

 

Just picked up my Volvo Relay for $5. Now to build a bracket and wire it all together.

 

Got the bracket made for the relay. I am thinking of making it a completely independent system. The primary fan is wired into the ECM currently, which runs all the time the engine is running. If I just run the Volvo relay off a 2 stage temp switch and completly eliminate the ECM out of the circuit will it throw a code or switch to "Limp Home Mode" or do some other crazy thing?

If I can use the 2 stage temp switch with no problems (preferably mounted in the head) which one can/should I use?

 

#1 it should take ECM out of cooling fan loop keep in mind you will want the temp sensor I'm the radiator. Or I would use a thermometer to see temp difference between head and radiator. Why are you continuously running a fan???? On both my cars my fans only run when needed it should run fairly steady with AC on. If your EFI or TBI becareful it may throw a fault code if the ECM doesn't read a temp also it would not know when to hit closed loop on fuel mix

 

I just put a brand new CTS in the intake manifold, which is for the computer. So, the computer knows the temps. What I might do is disconnect teh ECM from the primary fan (since it was put on a spade connector) and just ground it out and see what happens.

 

I opted on the HO factory style fans to run a 3-speed variable control harness-it's made up of relays which with the circuit board, can run any single fan or dual fan setup at 3 speeds, giving you low, medium and high and the relays are commercial grade Tyco ones also. I've helped a few members out with their cooling systems so let me know if 3 speeds is something you want without the uncertainty of aftermarket controllers, let me know.

I basically got fed up with various controllers either failing early or not being able to handle the high amperage requirements of quality OEM fans so I built my own design and it works flawlessly. I build relay control systems so it was not a big leap for me anyway.

 

Thats why I chose to use the Volvo relay. Iv read that the Taurus motor and the Volvo Motor are the same part number. Makes sense.

 

Just remember, if you are going to build your own harness using the Volvo relay, design it so either low or high is activated-not both at the same time....you'll ruin the fan motor pretty quick if both field windings are energized simultaneously.

 

That looks a little different than my taurus fan but the motor and fan blades look the same. They make a factory resettable fuse that hooks in-line with factory fan plug. It is trianglular shaped and has two rectangular aluminum fuses set in epoxy. I ground my fan housing and used gasket maker to seal and hold it to my radiator. I use a flexalite controler to operate it. I also have it wired to a switch in the ash tray to manually turn it on. Be sure to use wire one size bigger than what comes out of the fan motor. I also had to use a 40 amp fuse because it kept blowing 20s and 25s. This was before I found the factory resettable fuse that came on 95 cars only I think.

 

Thats exactly how the Volvo relay works. the beauty of that little doodad is it takes all the engineering of the electrical circuit out. Makes it practically plug and play.

I will be using 10 gauge wire throughout. Was thinking of a 35 Amp Fuse.

 

Got the Volvo relay mounted. Using aircraft screws which has a receptical on the other side, so if the relay fails I dont have to pull the whole fan assembly to get the relay off. One side accessibility.

Still have to clean up the bracket and paint it. Opinions?

 

Looks good.....just chrome plate it all....LOL J/K

 

I guess this thread is turning into a how-to or more so a how-I-do-it thread. Got the bracket painted up and mounted with the Volvo Relay. Mounted my 70A control relay. Even made the first electrical connection (Relay to relay). It is progressing slowly as time permits. Actual install is scheduled for late December. All the wiring will get put into split loom to "make neat" right before actual installation.

 

So then circuits are completely independent of the stock wiring ?

 

Thats the plan. I am going to use the ECM to trigger the low speed fan however, and a temp sensor in the head for the high speed.

 

At what temp does the ECM turn on the fan because if its high than you could use the switch and have it come on first at a lower setting..

I like the 190* on primary with a 200* secondary fan with a 180* thermostat. Can you get your fan to act in a similar manner or are those temps not what you're looking for.

Also I want to compliment you on your endeavor.

 

I think my ECM has been reprogrammed. The fan turns on with the engine, engine off, fan is off. So I know it is not a grounded wire or something. I am still debating if I should bypass the ECM all together and get a dual stage temp switch to run with my 180 tstat.

 

Actually having that fan run from start up does sound like a grounded wire because I can see no reason someone would reprogram a ECM to come on at startup. Does not make sense. Having it that way is not only unnecessary but is hard on the fan and charging system.Especially a large/high amp fan like yours. I guess anything is possible with POs.
It may be possible to pull the fuse for the ECM and then turn the key to the on position (do not try to start)and see if the fan goes on. I would say that if the fan comes on without the fuse you have a grounded fan. If it does not than it would be coming from the ECM as you suggested.

Side note = I have not tried this procedure and have a basic/limited knowledge when it comes to dealing with the ECM. You might want to wait until this has been confirmed as a safe procedure for the ECM.

 

Did you say this was for an LS engine swap, too? The ECM has to read 218 I believe via the CTS to trigger he fan output to go to ground. If the ECM senses the fan output to be grounded when the CTS input is out of range, then it'll trip the check engine light. You can get into the data log table and change the fan temp input will fix that BUT, LT1 and LS motors run at 210, so keep that in mind....for emissions purposes.

 

This is not an LS swap, just a fan swap. I need a better fan setup living in Arizona. If someone can confirm that the above mentioned method for checking the ECM is safe. I am still considering the dual temp switch in the head.

Edit: With the key on ,engine off the fan does not run. Engine on, the fan runs. Secondary runs all the time (relay grounded).

 

I found this and it has helped me understand the way the Volvo relays are working.
"The real beauty of the Volvo setup is that it has the relay logic that always starts the fan in low speed which generates the counter EMF that will allow a smooth transition to high speed. This significantly reduces the inrush current and arcing of the contacts, consequently the relay is under much less stress. It also prevents the simultaneous operation of both speeds, which makes this control ideal for use with the Taurus fan."

So installing a duel temp switch would finish off the system he's installing.
I wonder what temp a switch like that would come on at.

 

That is correct...keep in mind the Volvo relay is rated at 35 amps. It works great so long as total fan draw doesn't go over that. I have since started building sealed 70A relay harnesses that are of the same logic design as the Volvo relay for use on Motorcraft and other 2 speed fans-eventually the Volvo relays will get hard to find....so a 70A version of it is even better. But for a low amperage dual speed fan, the Volvo relay is an excellent option.

 

I read somewhere that the fan motor that is supposed to be attatched to the Volvo relay (in the Volvo) and the Taurus fan are the same Part Number. No matter how you slice it, it just makes sense to use this relay for this setup. All the hard work is already done.

I am still trying to figure out what switch to use. I have heard somewhere that Grand Nationals used a dual fan switch and that it is a direct swap. If anyone knows if that is correct or not, or any other switch that would fit in the head to work with a 180 Tstat, please let me know.

Yes, I agree they will get hard to find eventually. But as long as there is Ebay and Junkyards, they will be available for a long time.