Installed one 16" I believe electric fan on the inside of my radiator setup as a puller. On a warm day temp creeps up to 220 and stays there. I just purchased another fan. Is it best to run them as pullers or pusher and both on the inside correct?

 

fans will be most effective mounted as pullers-when a fan blows air,the air on the discharge side will have a rotation like a vortex and when configured as pusher,the air hits the radiator fins at an angle-reducing velocity quite a bit VS pulling air straight through as a puller.If a tube and fin transmission or engine oil cooler is mounted close to the intake side of a fan,a loud buzzing or whirring sound can be produced by the blades chopping through the turbulence created by the tubes-found this out with a tranny cooler on my '69 Camaro:remounted the fan as a pusher and though less effective,noise was greatly reduced

 

Well I only had room for one puller on the inside of the radiator so I mounted that on the passenger side and then mounted the other fan as a pusher on the outside of the radiator driver side. You can definitely feel a difference as the amount of air being moved between a puller and a pusher.

 

I have a 14in. puller as my primary fan that is adjustable temp .controlled to come on at 190* with a must have 180*thermostat and that alone keeps my car between those temps in normal traffic around town. I have a 16in. front pusher fan as a backup that also is an adjustable temp. fan that will come on at 200*.I have run the car with only the front pusher before and it actually did a pretty good job. You have to remember a front pusher fan must penetrate an ac condenser before hitting the actual radiator.

My theory as to why the front pusher helps the puller is because it pushes air through the condenser into the space between the two and the puller now has access to that air as opposed to sucking the usually hot air that is in between the two. Both working together would explain why my car rarely reaches temps above 210* even in heavy traffic and long lights.

Here’s a diagram of a very simple circuit that will work perfectly for any single fan and is a version of what I have installed.
Just run the fans hot wire to the main junction block by the battery and then ground the ground wire to the car. That would usually be a lame thing to do until you install this adjustable thermostat controlled switch on the ground wire. Bam, you have your adjustable fan costing $ 17.00 Here’s the controller. Its part # 733653 = http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...67187_69565_0_
Side note = I also have a 30 amp inline fuse on the hot wire from the battery.

and here’s the circuit =

 

A properly shrouded fan with the ability to pull enough air through multiple stacks is the most efficient. Most aftermarket fan kits fall woefully short. I like to use LT1 dual fans on 3rd gens....I have a couple setups if you want pics.

 

The circuit above is my simplest but I have two others that are very nice for single fans. They are both completely independent of any stock wiring . The second one is designed with heavier wire with a higher relay to handle a larger high amp fan.Bouth are completely adjustable thermost controlled using a simple $17.99 adjustable switch part #733653 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...67187_69565_0_If that does not take you to a $17.99 controller than use the part # for a search.

 

I would like to add that instead of running your relay power lead directly off the battery, I would advise running power for your relay from the common 12V junction-most newer GM vehicles including even 90's S-10's and full size pickups use a firewall mounted junction block. The reason for this is for remote voltage sensing....its easier for the alternators regulator to measure voltage drop in the system and respond accordingly. The battery is not meant to be a constant power source.