I wanna start out by saying, i have used this site for years as a reference point for everything I've ever worked on when it came to my grandfather's 89 IROC. I have always been able to sort problems out by just reading what others have already posted. I've finally made an account and am really hoping someone may be able to help me out. I've wanted a third gen since my pops got his iroc when i was 7(now 24). About a month ago, my dream car(or close enough) came into my life in the form of a 1992 25th anniversarie Camaro RS. The car is the L03 305 TBI with the T-56 5 speed. Now on to my problems. Sometimes after about 10-15 mins of driving, the car acts like its running out of gas and cuts out and dies. Open the hood and the upper radiator hose is hard as a rock. So i figure its the thermostat. i replace it twice and the problem persists. I finally decided to take the thermo out. I drove for about 7 blocks the next day, and sure enough, it cut out and died. When I opened the hood, the hose was swelled again. When i first got the car, it had a leaking thermo housing. i thought the cutting out had to do with the fuel/electrical system, so i replaced the fuel pump and filter, distributer cap, button, and control module, plugs, wires and coil. While changing all these items, i couldn't get the thermostat housing to quit leaking, no matter how many gaskets or how much permatex i used. i ended up seeing a post on here about the flat glass test, and sure enough, the stock aluminium housing was warped. A trip to my local scrap yard and i had myself a brand-used cast iron one off a sbc truck. No more leaks, but now i have the swelling problem. i believe the leak let pressure off and allowed the engine to run. Any thoughior ideas would be much appreciated!

 

Forgot to mention a few things... First off, when it dies, its rarely above the 140-150 mark on the temp guage. Second is when it died after the seven blocks, i let the pressure out of the system by opening the cap. I left it half open, and shr fired right up and drove fine for about three blocks and started cutting out. i was able to limp it home the remaining 9 blocks.

 

Fuel pump relay ?

There is a coolant temp. sensor that gives the ECM information but that should have nothing to do with a stalling problem. =

http://www.airtexproducts.com/news-c...ine-management

The system is under pressure and that will cause hard hoses.

I don't see how a cooling system including pressure (16lbs)would have any affect on your fuel supply or your spark, unless a cylinder was being flooded with coolant.

If your coolant reservoir is working as it should and you're not overheating than your cooling system is working the way it should..

Sorry that's not a lot of help but coolant pressure affecting your car's ability to run is really strange.

This is just a generic diagram showing how a coolant system works.

As you can see it has nothing to do with fuel supply or spark.

 

I thought that as well. I've never encountered a problem like this before. I spent nine hours today checking compression and all cylinders seem to check out fine. i was told to bleed air from the system by leaving the cap off at cool idle, and add coolant as the air comes out. is there a bleeder on this engine that I'm unaware of? I can also see the coolant circulating thru the heater hose and core of the radiator. there always seems to be a froth/bubbles at the mouth. i was told that points to a head gasket, but with proper psi on each cylinder, i find that hard to believe.

 

And in my first post, i stated i was assuming the fuel system was the culprit befor i had the thermostat housing leak fixed. I thought an electrical componant was getting hot and breaking down . After i changed the housing is when i discovered the swelling hose.

 

Also, the only code its throwing is the normal code 12.

 

Replace your hoses. They have lost there elasticity. Had this happen on my mustang. Thought they were going to pop like a water balloon. Replaced with new gates, all set

 

Also, check your water pump. Mine went out on me and the only indication was overheating. Thermostat would open up but water pump wouldn't circulate. Blew my drain plug clean out of the radiator. New drain plug and water pump...no more problems.

 

Can the water pump be bad, even tho i can see coolant circulating thru the heater hose and radiator core?

 

If it's the original, it's 22 years old. It may be circulating, but not sufficiently. Got mine for $30 at Autozone. Good luck.

 

Sounds like maybe a closed loop issue once it warms up to me.
Have you checked/replaced the MAP, IAT, or O2 sensor?

 

Sounds like a real bad diagnosis or you posted in the wrong thread.

 

The cooling system hoses get hard under PSI, that's normal.
Now if they get huge, that's a problem.

The dieing problem is most likely a ignition module, pickup coil, ign coil, inj problem, map sensor, or dead fuel pump. (even new parts can be bad)
Do the correct tests and you will find the issue.
A factory service manual will be the best help.

 

If a hose is ballooning change it but if its just hard under pressure and as I said if the car is not overheating look else where.

If you want to the fuel pump relay is a cheap part to replace at least that way you can dismiss it.

 

you are describing what was happening to mine it was the water pump and yes it will do that even if its circulating through it happens as you drive the pump cant keep up with the demand for keeping the coolant flowing i guarantee after you replace that pump you wont have the problem any more oh also you dont have to remove the pulley from the p/s pump just so you know