Need help with 350 tpi overheating??
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
Need help with 350 tpi overheating??
Ok 92 z28 350. I just replaced injectors, iac, distributor. It had been sitting awhile. Reset timing also.
Before it sat on a extremely hot day it would get up in the 230-240 range while in heavy traffic and you'd have to rev it and turn the heat on to get it down. Now I drove it after I did the above upgrades and it wasn't over heating under normal traffic conditions it did how jump way up after doing a small burnout in front of my house. By the time I backed into the driveway right after doing it, 240 temps were on the gauge. It went from 215 ish to 240 in a matter of seconds. I was getting hard on it too alittle this same day and it never did this. Only did it after the burn out I'm guessing cause it wasn't moving and flowing air into the grill. Also both dual fans are wired on all the time. I've flushed the radiator before I wired the fans up to be constant and that didn't help. Could it be a timing issue? It's set to stock. Could it be a blockage ? I flushed the radiator and it didn't help? What else can this be? Air dam is there.
Before it sat on a extremely hot day it would get up in the 230-240 range while in heavy traffic and you'd have to rev it and turn the heat on to get it down. Now I drove it after I did the above upgrades and it wasn't over heating under normal traffic conditions it did how jump way up after doing a small burnout in front of my house. By the time I backed into the driveway right after doing it, 240 temps were on the gauge. It went from 215 ish to 240 in a matter of seconds. I was getting hard on it too alittle this same day and it never did this. Only did it after the burn out I'm guessing cause it wasn't moving and flowing air into the grill. Also both dual fans are wired on all the time. I've flushed the radiator before I wired the fans up to be constant and that didn't help. Could it be a timing issue? It's set to stock. Could it be a blockage ? I flushed the radiator and it didn't help? What else can this be? Air dam is there.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
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From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Re: Need help with 350 tpi overheating??
I would drain it and do a full flush to start.
Are the fans coming on?
First one at 225 and second at 235 or so?
Are the fans coming on?
First one at 225 and second at 235 or so?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,576
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From: Ganiesville GA
Car: 1992 z28/1992 RS heritage edition
Engine: 350 tpi, 305 tbi
Transmission: 700R4,T5
Axle/Gears: G92
Re: Need help with 350 tpi overheating??
Both fans are wired to be constantly on.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 573
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 (305 TPI)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Positraction
Re: Need help with 350 tpi overheating??
Run down the cooling system basics;
Check condition of the radiator:
- fins clear of debris, not bent/mangled
- no visible leaks from seals or hoses
- radiator cap gasket in good shape
- not blocked (leaves/debris)
- with engine at temp check for cold spots on the radiator (usually at the bottom, evidence of blocked passages)
Check condition of the air dam:
- not missing/broken
Check condition of the fan(s):
- if electric, check for proper operation
- if mechanical, fan clutch not worn out
Check Hoses:
- Not kinked/collapsed/leaking/steam leak. Look for evidence of pinhole steam leaks in the form of yellowish green deposits or "snot" at gasket areas and around hose ends.
Check water pump:
- no sign of leakage from weep hole
- no odd noises
Check coolant:
- proper color/mixture
- proper fluid level (has the system been "burped" to remove all air?)
- does system pressurize (engine at temp, thermostat open, radiator cap on and upper and lower hoses not soft)?
Check heater:
- does hot air blow from the vents with engine at temp (heater core not clogged?)
Other things that can effect engine temp are detonation, trans issues (auto trans generate a LOT of heat), mineral deposits in the engine/heater core/radiator that block coolant flow (from running tap water), head gasket issues, and improper timing.
Check condition of the radiator:
- fins clear of debris, not bent/mangled
- no visible leaks from seals or hoses
- radiator cap gasket in good shape
- not blocked (leaves/debris)
- with engine at temp check for cold spots on the radiator (usually at the bottom, evidence of blocked passages)
Check condition of the air dam:
- not missing/broken
Check condition of the fan(s):
- if electric, check for proper operation
- if mechanical, fan clutch not worn out
Check Hoses:
- Not kinked/collapsed/leaking/steam leak. Look for evidence of pinhole steam leaks in the form of yellowish green deposits or "snot" at gasket areas and around hose ends.
Check water pump:
- no sign of leakage from weep hole
- no odd noises
Check coolant:
- proper color/mixture
- proper fluid level (has the system been "burped" to remove all air?)
- does system pressurize (engine at temp, thermostat open, radiator cap on and upper and lower hoses not soft)?
Check heater:
- does hot air blow from the vents with engine at temp (heater core not clogged?)
Other things that can effect engine temp are detonation, trans issues (auto trans generate a LOT of heat), mineral deposits in the engine/heater core/radiator that block coolant flow (from running tap water), head gasket issues, and improper timing.
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