Bruce91RS

Can someone recommend a good replacement fan please? Aftermarket or fan from another type/brand of car would be fine. I replaced my rad. and thermostat last weekend and want to do my fan next. Old one isn't working because housing is warped. Thanks

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

I've got these in stock....$169 plus shipping. And this includes a control harness.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

I have a couple of good stock single fans with good housings. Can do with or without motor for lighter shipping costs if yours is still good. Get me your email address for pics and other info if interested
Henry

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

You're best to stick with the stock fan configuration unless you have some reason to stray away. Any aftermarket or fourthgen or Taurus fan will require fab work to install and I haven't seen a fourthgen or Taurus fan done well in quite a while-They all look thrown on like a huge wing aftermarket spoiler does. The stock single fan should be able to cool any engine up to 300 hp in Pennsylvania without trouble. If you want to upgrade you could use the stock dual fans from a TPI car. The fans formula1LE posted are not stock dual thirdgen fans BTW.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

No, they are not-they move approx 2X the airflow over stock TPI fans-and the TPI setup have a terrible shroud design by themselves-there is a reason modern fan assemblies are shrouded completely. There are better alternatives over stock offerings BUT:yes they require some modding and IF the car is an extremely low mileage, all original or otherwise scarce/rarely optioned car then I wouldn't want to deviate from stock at all. Electric fan assemblies have come a long way since 1987.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Very true, Electric fans and their systems have come quite a ways but that was never part of the discussion.
I stand by my statement that in Pennsylvania a single stock 1980's design TBI fan can cool an engine up to 300 hp. When I lived in Illinois I ran a dyno verified 350 rear wheel hp sbc (not bragging) that was cooled just fine by a single TBI fan. "Just fine" meaning with a 190* thermostat the engine never got above 220*. So a 1980s designed TBI fan will work just fine for him and save him installation headaches. I know that won't help you make money off of selling him parts-sorry.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Oh no-I'm not going to argue with ya
I've had my share of problems with the ability of TBI single fans or even TPI dual fans performing great in situation beyond stock. I'm not trying to rain on your dyno parade either but real world 110+ heat/humidity w/AC on high sitting in bumper to bumper city traffic is a much more realistic measure of a fan(s) ability to pull considerable heat out and stock TBI and TPI fans were adequate when brand new but fans have gotten much better over the years particularly where shroud designs are concerned.
Anyway, that's my opinion on aftermarket fans.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

"Very true, Electric fans and their systems have come quite a ways but that was never part of the discussion."

-not sure why you thought this......


-when the OP stated......

"Aftermarket or fan from another type/brand of car would be fine."

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

You live in Iowa-you don't have average ambient temps of 110* and neither does the OP. You may see upper 90s as a high once a summer for a few hours, you don't need fans that will work in 110*. But IF you did than you could still use the stock TPI dual fans and be fine. I live in the Mojave Desert which is the hottest place in the United States and I drive my Camaro that has a 400 wheel horsepower SBC with the dual TPI fans and I have never seen an engine coolant temp above 225*.

Too many people like to say they need bigger or more powerful fans with massive shrouds or aluminum radiators with 2 or 3 cores when the truth is the stock radiator and stock TPI dual fans will work just fine for nearly every N/A thirdgen. If you have or had a cooling issue it's most likely because you have a problem with some aspect of the system but not because one component is not good enough.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Damn....that is a helluva place (pun intended!) to live that's for sure! This week alone in Iowa and last week temps were mid-uppers 90's but with 70%-up humidity so the heat index was 110-115 for the hottest parts of the days recently....not a dry heat but a humid heat-and it's terrible too! But again, even in the desert traveling on average at high speeds the cooling system isn't constrained as much as muggy slow moving city traffic....but in PA I'd bet average temps aren't anywhere what you or I would see. There's always a 3rd gen "checklist" of things to verify too:

Lower airdam intact and functioning?
Radiator been flushed/cleaned?
Running too lean?
Water pump cavitation?
Any intake/head gasket leaks internally!
Cooling system pressure test?

The actual volume of coolant the stock cooling system tries to move through the OEM style radiator is laughable tho.

Saxondale

iTrader: (2)

I'll toss in my observation for sake of tech base, and car preservation. The single fan in my stock '84 L69 pulls a lot of amps, but does cool fine. A higher efficiency fan or fans would create less drain on the charging system and battery.

And while it's desirable to keep a stock car in original condition, bolt-in radiators and fans are acceptable modifications to protect an original car.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The only real problem I could see with a fully shrouded fan setup is if the fans are still shutting off over 40mph and they create a airflow restriction at speed.
Which did kind of happen with the 4thgen setups partly because of the rad angle. There were some rubber flap doors added to the LT1 shroud setups and I think they were just left open on the LS cars.

NolaZ28

I would like to purchase one of those relay kits for the electric fans that you make

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

I have an LS1 style dual fan setup with a 3-speed harness available-they fit a 3rd gen radiator pretty well....is that something that you could use?

NolaZ28

Sure is I just installed it using 2 dual fan controllers,then added an extra relay for a/c on. I don't really need the low speed due to the fact I'm in the south,but I do like to have things work and look like factory

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Ah-ok. So are you looking for a fan harness for your fan(s) or a fan assembly w/built in harness control? I can set it up either way for you.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

I also have (2) of the fan assemblies shown at the beginning of this thread also. $169 plus shipping for those....just another option.

NolaZ28

My system uses 3 relays,one added to the 2 controllers. But I don't know if its the correct amperage basically. 3 30 amp relays. They have radiator probes for the two different cut on / off times. Tryin not to burn up the harness due to not enough amperage. But your system also employs temperature control also?

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

On my harness I use (2) GM style temp switches.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Here's a pic of the t-stat spacer I like to use with a lot of my installs...

NolaZ28

That looks killer I am interested in the controller relay bank and the tstat spacer. I have PayPal account

NolaZ28

Also I need a 160 on starting point for the fans,is there a sensor for that low of a turn on point?

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Hypertech 4026 available thru Summit Racing is the closest-it's rated at 177 on/166 off and is a 280 series style pigtail but I think it's still a 3/8 thread. For the bullet style receptacle like mine there's 4028 which is similar to mine but is rated at 200 on/185 off and IMO is the best choice for a low temp switch. On my standard harness kits, I prefer a warmer turn on temp so my low temp is 212 on/ 202 off. I can include that last one in my kit for you to use as a high speed switch then you just need to order yourself one of the other Hypertech switches thru Summit Racing.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I thought I saw the Hypertech was discontinued?

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

It may be...I personally don't use it-it's too low for even a non EFI setup-I prefer to use the 212/202 for low temp-it doesn't mean the engine temp runs that warm-it just means that the outlet temp has to reach that to trigger low fan speed. And even OEM switches have a +\- 3 degree variance.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

NolaZ28....PM sent!

Justo92RS

Are you still selling / creating these set ups?
interested in buying. Looking to do a dual fan conversion and getting rid of my single fan.

242turbo

Link please to purchase,