Whos using Commander950 With a WIDEBAND O2?
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 77
From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Whos using Commander950 With a WIDEBAND O2?
Yes, its capable of using a WB02, but You need the software to do it. Im curious whos using it, and how it works, etc...
I found a bit of info about it on their site...
the part number for the "race upgrade" software is
950-125
thats what gives the ECU the knowledge on the WB02 as well as some other really really cool stuff....
I found a bit of info about it on their site...
the part number for the "race upgrade" software is
950-125
thats what gives the ECU the knowledge on the WB02 as well as some other really really cool stuff....
Done it a bunch of times.
You need an aftermarket sensor and amplifier unit. I recommend FJO. Need one with a calibrated 0-5v output. The race software has a 4x4 matrix that you enter the target voltage (which corresponds to A/F ratio) based on RPM and MAP. You also enter +/- compensation limits in another matrix.
You can then run closed loop to any A/F ratio at any load or RPM you want. The FJO plugs into the existing O2 sensor wiring with a connector change.
You need an aftermarket sensor and amplifier unit. I recommend FJO. Need one with a calibrated 0-5v output. The race software has a 4x4 matrix that you enter the target voltage (which corresponds to A/F ratio) based on RPM and MAP. You also enter +/- compensation limits in another matrix.
You can then run closed loop to any A/F ratio at any load or RPM you want. The FJO plugs into the existing O2 sensor wiring with a connector change.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member



Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 77
From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
So the software is just part of the equation, where do i get a "FJO" and what is it? i know I need an aftermarket WB02, like you said, but is the Amplifier unit the same thing as a "FJO" ?
oh, and is it worth it? Can you achieve better fuel economy this way? Thats my primary concern, if this adds fuel economy I want it. if its just for paranoid power seekers then I'd rather buy other stuffs...
oh, and is it worth it? Can you achieve better fuel economy this way? Thats my primary concern, if this adds fuel economy I want it. if its just for paranoid power seekers then I'd rather buy other stuffs...
www.fjoinc.com is a company that sells the sensor and amplifier.
The unit from them is $568. It would take a long time to get that back in fuel economy. Most cars can't smoothly run much leaner than the normal 14.7:1 a std. O2 runs at. Try running open loop leaner first to see what you can gain.
A small, moderate cam and an OD trans is the best thing you can do for fuel ecomomy.
What is the rest of you combination?
I only use WB's on pretty hot engines and all power adder engines, at least to tune them.
The unit from them is $568. It would take a long time to get that back in fuel economy. Most cars can't smoothly run much leaner than the normal 14.7:1 a std. O2 runs at. Try running open loop leaner first to see what you can gain.
A small, moderate cam and an OD trans is the best thing you can do for fuel ecomomy.
What is the rest of you combination?
I only use WB's on pretty hot engines and all power adder engines, at least to tune them.
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Supreme Member



Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 77
From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Its a 383 with basically a street setup (XE270 roller cam, Eagle forged crank/rods, AFR 195CC Heads, 9.5:1 compression)
and on top of all that, its got a weiand 142 blower.
I was experiementing with my Commander 950 TBI setup trying to get the fuel economy where i wanted it, and it seems like it just tops out around 18-20 MPG.
Behind it is a 700R4 and 3.73 gears. a 9.5" converter with the lowest stall available turns the tranny. it stalls to about 2800 from a dead stop. and thats the LOWEST available. behind my 305 it stalled to about 2000....
I was hoping to get closer to 25-26 MPG but i guess not with this TBI setup. Would removing the blower and adding a TPI setup or a Holley Stealth Ram and using the commander 950 on it help my Fuel economy that much? I have a stock TPI setup lying around, but i dont think the runners would support my 383 @ 5500 Rpms, but i could be wrong. Losing horsepower in the face of fuel economy wouldnt bother me at all, as it is the tires spin when i step into it, no matter what speed im at. it fishtails at 70 MPH on the highway when i get on it. scary, actually.
and on top of all that, its got a weiand 142 blower.
I was experiementing with my Commander 950 TBI setup trying to get the fuel economy where i wanted it, and it seems like it just tops out around 18-20 MPG.
Behind it is a 700R4 and 3.73 gears. a 9.5" converter with the lowest stall available turns the tranny. it stalls to about 2800 from a dead stop. and thats the LOWEST available. behind my 305 it stalled to about 2000....
I was hoping to get closer to 25-26 MPG but i guess not with this TBI setup. Would removing the blower and adding a TPI setup or a Holley Stealth Ram and using the commander 950 on it help my Fuel economy that much? I have a stock TPI setup lying around, but i dont think the runners would support my 383 @ 5500 Rpms, but i could be wrong. Losing horsepower in the face of fuel economy wouldnt bother me at all, as it is the tires spin when i step into it, no matter what speed im at. it fishtails at 70 MPH on the highway when i get on it. scary, actually.
Assuming you have a lockup converter I'd put 3.08 gears in it. THat would help mpg the most.
IMO 18-20 mpg is darn good for you setup.
If you want more MPG, and I mean this seriously, I'd buy a junker 4 cylinder car and keep the current one for more of a toy.
IMO 18-20 mpg is darn good for you setup.
If you want more MPG, and I mean this seriously, I'd buy a junker 4 cylinder car and keep the current one for more of a toy.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member



Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 77
From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
gear huh? most people i talk to tell me that going from 2.73 - 3.73 only report losing 1-2 MPG on fuel injected, overdrive cars. Im not worried about 1-2 MPG. i prefer the torque gain of the 3.73 over the 2.73 i had... Ill live with that cruise RPM...
I was considering the T-56 as an alternative, because of its .5:1 overdrive ratio. it would be a lower RPM on the highway than a 2.73 with a 700R4.
but like i said, most people with overdrive / EFI dont report a huge MPG difference with a decent gear change. I know it would help, but the trade off just isnt worth it to me, I've had 3.08 and 2.73, and I dont think ill ever go back. Unless you mean like 5-6 MPG... then hey why not....
I was considering the T-56 as an alternative, because of its .5:1 overdrive ratio. it would be a lower RPM on the highway than a 2.73 with a 700R4.
but like i said, most people with overdrive / EFI dont report a huge MPG difference with a decent gear change. I know it would help, but the trade off just isnt worth it to me, I've had 3.08 and 2.73, and I dont think ill ever go back. Unless you mean like 5-6 MPG... then hey why not....
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 203
Likes: 13
From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1986 Z28 / 2012 CLS550
Engine: F-1R -> Aluminum block 540
Transmission: T56 Magnum + GForce gears
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.00's + Eaton Truetrac
Yea, I went from 3.00's to 3.89's, fuel economy got *better* this is with a .68 o.d. If you look at a dyno sheet for your engine, you can calculate what gears to run to get the best fuel economy at a certain mph. I have 2.75's now, I suspect that running in 4th gear for 55mph will get better economy than 5th just because the throttle can be closed more in 4th and still get 55mph. Also depends on the rpm drop between 4th and 5th.
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