sorry the posting in two forums, but i need help QUICK, and i'm not sure where this is gonna get better answers:

Ok, so heres the chain of events so this might a little easier to diagnose. For the past couple days everytime i accelerate anything other that very very lightly, my aftermkt tach jumps a couple hundred rpm, like a glitch. My factory tach, which doesn't even have a signal going to it, also jumps up a few hundred rpm. My Fasten seatbelt light comes on as well, which also shouldn't have a signal (i have harnesses, factory belts are gone).

When im on it fairly hard, the engine begins to miss really bad when this happens. Well today i get on it, the belt light comes on, both tachs jump around, the engine misses really hard, and smoke starts pouring out from under the passenger side dash. I get home take the ECM apart and find a blown up component (pictured below, labed C15).

What boggles my mind is that the ecm doesn't even do anything anymore... The car has a 355 with old style vac. HEI, and a Speed demon. It has no control over the engine at all, or so i thought.

How the hell do i fix this? can i just leave the ecm unplugged? I'm assuming the battery lead to the distributer is still connected to the ecm, and thats what is causing the miss. Can i rewire that, unplug the ecm, and be ok?

Please help me out with the quickness, i'm going to the track tomorrow!!!

Eric

by the way, this is an 86 z28, originally an lg4 t-5 car....

the top casing on the ecm has a label that says:

SERV. NO. 1227169 ANW
860631 M523517594


theres another label with a barcode that reads:

16060631

and under the barcode it reads:
860631M523517594

 

You cant fix that !

 

well, i dunno about everybody else, but i had a computer controlled carb in my 85, i ripped the computer allt he way out and put an edelbrock carb and vac hei on it, never had any problems. the 12v to the coil on the dist is a pink wire thats seperate from the rest of the comp. wiring harness, pretty sure it's just a switched 12v. as long as your getting 12+ to the dist where it's labeled "B+" the car should run perfectly fine without the damn computer...

 

I might have a spare computer for you.. If I find one, and you wanna buy it.

Else, take it to an electronics shop and have 'em replce that cap.

 

That's actually an MOV, not a capacitor. It did just what it was supposed to under extreme voltage surge. I've replaced several, and have purchased some spares from Newark.