I sent an email to the guys at www.delteq.com to see if they would be interested in making a kit to convert the HEI distributor to Cadillac Northstar coils. They make a kit that converts the opti-spark distributor to Northstar coils. If they keep the HEI kit in the same price range as the optispark kit I figure it would sell great. They sent me a reply to my email saying that they have been thinking about doing a kit for HEI and to check their website in a few mouths for possible updates. I figure if more people expressed their interest in a kit they will have more incentive to do it. So if you want to put some coils in place of the dissy please send a email to jch@delteq.com expressing your interest in this.

That would be great. I've been working on a DIS that uses a small single board computer and a crank sensor, but if I could get one that uses OEM parts for a reasonable price, already reverse engineered, that would be . It's hard as hell to find a trashed Northstar car here in Podunk, AL to look at for reverse engineering purposes, let alone an owner of a good, running one who is willing to let me hack on his pride & joy for purposes of research! Although I'm sure that if I could spend a few hours with one that I could make it work.

I'll hit them with an email too.

Take a dual sensor Caddie, or MSD distributor, and cut the 8 stars or shutters to 4.
A simple count to 4 counter, feed said output to 4 HEI modules.
Fire the 4 coils, with the HEI modules.

OR,

Do a count to 8 devise, and then 8 TTL outputs to fire 8 CNP coils.
Obviously, the count/reset, to 4/8 starts with the cam synch signal.

Grumpy, one thing I've been debating in my mind is something I'd like to have your opinion on. That is, do you think that the accuracy of a crank triggered ignition versus a regular cam operated (HEI) ignition is enough of an issue to be concerned about here? Or is that, in your opinion, just putting too fine of an edge on it? My approach to this has been to utilize a crank trigger, thinking that it will provide a little more timing accuracy. But is whatever advantage there is to be had by doing this worth going to the trouble?

FWIW, I believe that the N* system could be easily adapted for our cars if, as I mentioned, they were readily accessible for research.

YMMV

Grumpy,
I don’t see how the ECM would not be controlling the spark advance with your method.

LnealZ28,
There was a post some time back on the DIY PROM board about hooking up a N* coil packs, if you are interested in doing it yourself check out this post: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=northstar
I do not have the resources \ tools \ knowledge to be able to make the circuitry and other stuff needed to make it work. So if I could purchase it for an affordable price I would be willing to. It would be really awesome if someone on this board figured it out and passed all the info on how to do it everyone. It has been done before by someone in the GM ECM archives.

For the oems, it's getting to where cost in no object, just to comply with the EPA. So they're going to incredible lenghts to get the FLEET AVERAGE, as tight as possicle. For a street engine, running pump gas, with a muffler, there is more to be had IMO, with having some added resolution in the timing map.

With a mechanical dizzy stuff is wondering around so bad, that you need to reign things in, mechanically, and going from a dizzy to crank is, IMO no different then going with a computer controlled strategy anywho.

If you use the EST line as the signal for the coils, the ecm is in control.

Run off the modules for crank like stock, and then at whatever RPM threshold enable the EST.

You just need the cam synch to organise which coil to fire. Everything else is the same.

With any cost effective system there are trade offs. The *star gets you quicker starts, at the expense of alot of work. An eDist might take 2 revolutions to synch up, so it cranks a lil longer. For the oems that's a big deal, for most of us, it's not an issue, and makes for a much simplier system.
KISS

Anyone test fit a '90 caddy dizzy to a sbc? Curious if it fits for the purpose of edist.

-- Joe

Last I heard it was a drop in.
You have to trim the cam shutter to get the synch right, for the edist.

Or so I've been told.

Yeah go from 8 to 4 right?

Just curious if the height, gear mesh, and oil pump pin is the same..

I can't find one in the junkyards local.

I'm still not ruling out using a DIS module from another GM vehicle. Seems however, the LSx and gen3 stuff is top secret.

-- Joe

No, the cam synch. It's the Hall effect shutter.

I'd always use a known chev gear. Just a thing I have since a Ford bite me on that some years ago.

Hrmm.. I need to get my hands on one to look at it.. I can't believe I cannot find one local.

-- Joe

if the 88-89 Deville/Seville/ Eldo Distributor has all the essentials there are a couple on ebay for $25.00 buy it now pricing

1990 is the only year that has it.

-- Joe