This project has gone on for way too long and I'm finishing it up so I can get back into working on my car. Below is a link to an older thread I started last year after my DIY WB kit had been waiting for almost a year for me to build.
The DIY WB controller is finished and the test have been run with everything checking out ok.

There is only one thing left, RBob (thanks again RBob for the help) said to wire the calibration resistor (located in the sensor connector) to pads J9 and J10 (CalR). The connector has 28.7k wrote on a sticker attached to the side of the connector.

My question(s) is this size of the resistor? can I just go to Radio Shack and get new resistors to go in its place or do I need to destroy the connector to get the one out that inside?
Here is the link to the old thread,maybe this will help catch everyone up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=324903

When I ordered all this DIY stuff Moates wasn't offering it but I see now he is, maybe I should just order a new one from him.
Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Its funny how I ask questions that not too many can answer. I guess thats a good thing because it shows I'm above average.

I figured out my problem by taking the connecter apart, I didn't want to do this because I wanted to be able to reuse it if my DIY controler didn't work.

With the DIY WB project web site being gone I feel as if I built an obsolete item and should just order a new one from Moates.

I have another question. Does anyone know of a way to test this controller so I will know that its giving me the correct A/F ratio?

 

There are two methods I can suggest to test that the reported AFR is correct. First is to use calibration gases. Would need to know someone with a gas bench, or obtain the gases and set up something on your own.

Second would be to install the diy-wb and a known good wb unit within the same pipe/area. Then compare the readings.

RBob.